Starter goes rat-ta-ta-ta... but no turn-over

This morning my wife's 2003 Rav4 (60k miles), after no previous symptoms whatsoever, suddenly won't start.

The starter makes a rapid, high-pitched ra-ta-ta-ta-ta... sound as long as the key is turned, but seems not to be turning the engine.

I've tried it several times over the past couple hours--no change.

The battery (original) appears good (headlights bright, the dot on the battery case is blue).

It's an automatic, so I guess there's no way to push-start it, right? We're miles from any service facility.

I'd sure appreciate any suggestions as to what might have gone wrong and what to check out!

John Wells

Reply to
John W. Wells
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yep, I'd agree with Jeff - a tickticktickticktick from the starter (in my experience at least) means insufficient oomph from the battery to the starter or solenoid, like an insufficient charge. You might try rocking the car (in park) a couple of times in case the starter gear is hung up in some way, but trying to start with a jumped battery would be me first shot too. Good luck!

Reply to
mack

Wullll, I *got* jumper cables, but that blue dot, and those bright headlights, and, and...

That was IT!!

Thanks so much, Jeff!!!

John Wells

Reply to
John W. Wells

My 99 Camry is still running fine with the ORIGINAL battery.

Reply to
sharx35

Thank you, too, Mack! I did try moving the car a bit, but didn't leave it in park (it's my first automatic--duh), so of no use.

Anyway, just finished popping in a new battery, and SWMBO is so pleased that her little car is running again, that tonight just might... (uh, never mind :-)

--John W. Wells

Reply to
John W. Wells

While in this case, it was the battery. However, it could have also been from dirty terminals on the battery or at the starter or a bad alternator. In fact, it may still be a bad alternator.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

Actually, they're aiming ideally at the battery failure happening somewhere between 30 and 35.99 months, whenever the residual value drops to 5%. They want you to come back before the warranty expires and buy a new battery at full price less the 5% Prorated value.

To get the payout on that warrantee you need to buy another new battery from the same maker. Even if they give you 10% they still come out way ahead.

Fool them - once a year get out your rubber gloves and safety goggles, a putty knife and a gallon of distilled water. Pry the caps of that "Maintenance Free" (LIE!) battery open and add water to the indicator rings, they have them. It will add another year or two of useful life.

Scrubbing off the outside of the battery and scrubbing out the battery tray and the surrounding area with baking soda and water paste (followed by a water flush) while you're in there is good too. Don't get any baking soda inside the battery itself or you kill it.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Umm, lemme guess.....cook your favorite meal....fetch your pipe and slippers unrequested.....or....oh, got ya. : - ) Glad you're back in business with the car.

Reply to
mack

No, actually they've got some better OEM batteries in Japan than the norm, not normally available as replacements through the parts channels - treat them right (never leave the lights on, mild climate, top off with distilled water occasionally) and 8 years is possible, 10 years not implausible.

Though I sure wouldn't push it past 8 years on a nominally 6-year design life battery. Batteries are cheaper than tow fees.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

I would try cleaning all of the connections from the solenoid to the starter if, as you say, the battery is OK.

mike

Reply to
Mike Hunter

I think you are getting really confused. The OP said nothing about the battery being ok in this post.

In addition, the right thing to say is that the OP should clean the terminals and battery cables at the battery, too.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

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