Supra tranny cooling lines

One of the lines going to (or from?) the tranny in my '88 Supra AT 7M-GE started pissing fluid onto the exhaust pipe, right where the two pipes come together. This does NOT look like something I want to or should Cob Job back together.

I couldn't get a good look, since it is slightly above and slightly behind the exhaust from where I was looking (back on the ground, chest against the bottom of the car, grease running down my arm...) but it looks like the fitting comes out of the tranny, into an elbow, then a tube-and-hose configuration.

I was going to try to replace the hose part, but I don't think I should (or could) cut and splice. There is a fitting that joins the hose to the tube; the outer casing of the hose is splaying away right where there is a fitting.

Hoping I can get the part and drive it to work (20 miles)to do the actual work...

Any ideas, besides the obvious, of course...

Reply to
Hachiroku
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Check Auto Zone's web site to see if they have a replacement hose. If necessary, use a tubing cutter to remove the fitting and use hose clamps.

Reply to
Ray O

Went to AZ this AM. Part Not Available.

It is in SUCH a tough spot to get to even on ramps it is NOT going to be a joy to work on.

I think this assy is the source of most of my leaks from the tranny (I have to add 1/2 qt every 200 miles or so!) so I think the best hting is just to replace it. I've cobbed things together before. Some (the fuel lines on the Celica) have held together, others haven't. Unfortunately, there is no guage to watch while you drive to let you know you've just dumped the majority of your tranny fluid behind the car like James Bond's oil slick...

Reply to
HachiRoku

If you're not in a cobbling mood, then replacement is the only choice. If you know the diameter of the hose, then cobbling might be an option. For a (very) temporary fix, wrap a cloth around the leak and then wrap bailing wire (automotive cure-all before duct tape and zip ties were invented) around many times like you're wrapping the core on a motor. My dad saves bad motors, condensers, anything with a wire-wrapped core as a source of bailing wire.

Watch your tach to make sure engine RPM doesn't jump as a clue that you've low on ATF.

Good luck!

Reply to
Ray O

Oh, yeah, the tach! Hmmmm....

I was going to wrap it with electrical tape, about a dozen good wraps, in a helical fasion overlapping and then zip tie the wrap in three different places. Or, get a small length of hose and brake tubing and snip the original hose, insert the brake line, hosee clamp it and then slit and place the replacement tubing over it.

But you should see where it is...it is NOT in a good spot. It is against the frame rail, and behind the exhaust and above everything.

The replacements are $27 and $31. One is an "E" code and one is an "F" code.

Let's see if Ray remembers the parts coding system...

Reply to
HachiRoku

For that kind of money, OEM parts are the easy (and more reliable) way to go. "E" parts are slow sellers, "F" are even slower. The dealer is unlikely to stock either and the "F" probably has to come from the TMS master depot in CA while the "E" may come from the PDC in Mansfield.

Reply to
Ray O

You're talking to ME, remember, Ray? See, in MY case, "E" means we have to wait for it to come from Japan, and "F" means...well, think of a 6 letter word that begins with "F" and ends in "ed": no longer available.

The local (MY local) dealer doesn't have PartsVoiced, so I e-mailed a dealer in Lexington who says they can find parts. I DID find one available online, but I'm not sure I trust them. I'll wait till I hear from Lexington Toy and then try the PV system where I work.

There is ONE good thing out of this; contrary to the way my luck USUALLY runs, the one that's leaking is the one being sent from Japan. I figured it would be the other way 'round, as is usually what happens when you're me...

Reply to
HachiRoku

I learned something new today! - I was never a District Parts Manager.

Good luck on getting the part!

Reply to
Ray O

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