Toyota Brakes

Kinda depends on how bad they are.

The fronts usually get more wear than the back.

Your mileage may vary...

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:9dbb40a8-9e2f-43d5-85fb-77dc086a43b6 @w8g2000prd.googlegroups.com:

You only need to replace what's worn. In axle sets, of course...

A visual inspection is the only way to tell, and brake pad wear is as individual as fingerprints.

Unless you've left your emergency brake on for a few thousand miles, the rears seldom need replacing...I've heard that at least 70% of the braking is done by the fronts, and that sounds reasonable. Do be sure to get quality brake pads - they'll sqeal less (or not at all) and the extra dough is worth it, IMHO. Don't be surprised if you have to resurface (or replace) the front rotors - if they're thin, from a previous resurfacing, they tend to warp, which is what you don't want.

Brake pads need to be changed entire axle at a time. So all the fronts OR all the rear pads at a time or both axles if needed. That way you won't get side-way pulls. Typically each set of rear pads will last two sets in front.

Over-the-counter toyota pads are sometimes made by different manufacturers. If you see "AK xxx-xxx FF" marking then these are made by Akebono. Great stuff. NBKs IMO are junk. Or you can just use Akebono ProAct ceramic aftermarket pads.

As has been said, the backs likely won't need to be replaced. If you do replace them, however, you will feel better and in fact, you will be a better person. I recommend you buy Toyota pads from the dealer. jor

What's a good price? I got quoted 500+ for the front pads + a brake fluid flush at the dealer and 400+ for both front and rear and a flush at some indie shop...

$500 for just the front and a deep bleeding? That's a Wallet Flushing Service, too.

$400 for all four wheels and a deep bleeding would be more in the ballpark for a big city, and a bit high for a small town.

More if they find a caliper or wheel cylinder leaking or hanging, and they need to install remanufactured front calipers or new slave cylinders on the rear. Or they find a broken spring or clip and need to replace the "Combi kit" hardware.

NOTE: The "Brake Flushing service is radically expensive, and sold as "a preventative service to increase the life of your car!!" (And it's sold to the dealers as a great added profit center.)

But a thorough brake system fluid bleeding with fresh brake fluid is the Exact Same Thing and probably using the same power bleeder machine, has been done the same way since the invention of hydraulic brake systems - and the realization that ester based brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere) and usually is a third the price.

You do not ask for a brake system flushing service, you ask for a brake system bleeding service. Then you take the wife out to a fine dining restaurant with the difference - perhaps a movie, too.

Rear brakes usually last three or more sets of front pads before they need to be touched - the front brakes do most of the work. Have the rear brakes opened, cleaned out with spray solvent, and inspected

- if the pads are worn to 1/4 left or lower, change them. But if the rear linings are at 1/2 or better leave them be, check again at the next front brake job.

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$400 is competitive with major shops like Midas and Meineke (ooops...did I say Midas...).

Parts alone to do the job yourself run into about $250 for front pads and rotors and rear shoes and drums, if they reuse the rotors or drums then there's turning involved (these days it's about the same as getting new rotors). So that's $150 for labor/shop profit.

Or, you could take most of the day Saturday and do it yourself! ;)