02 Camry 4cyl - engine noise

Jason... I was working in a dealership about two years after those things came out. The blocks were "green" which manifested in rapidly wearing lifter bores and CRAP valve guides. Those 351C and 400M engines lubricated the lifters BEFORE the crankshaft main bearings which is another reason they were crap. Combine the oil system and rapidly wearing lifter bores and you get delays pressurizing the entire engine on start up and maintaining pressure with a hot idling engine when thin oil was used. Had nothing to do with bearing clearances ... which "as delivered" were none too snug either.

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  - Philip
Reply to
.Philip.
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Steve B.

Was your bad tensioner making a lot of noise? What sort of noise? Was it a whine, like a bad bearing? The noise I'm experiencing is more like a metal-on-metal fast tapping, like rocker arms hitting lifters (in the good old days).

I bought a new tensioner assembly this morning, to the tune of $160. I'll install it tomorrow. We'll see if this dealer got it right, or is blowing smoke.

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DrWho

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Reply to
DrWho

Well. I installed the new belt tensioner (and new belt while I was there). As I feared, it made no difference in the noise that I am experiencing. I firmly believe that the metal-on-metal, fast tapping is an internal engine problem.

So a few questions:

It was suggested that I switch to a synthetic oil. I was under the impression that you should not switch to synthetic after running dino oil for so long. ???

I recall hearing about some sort of oil that is meant for older vehicles, which is effective at quieting down this type of noise. Is there such a thing, and is it recommended?

Why is my 02 Camry with only 67K miles so darned noisy, and no dealers are able to do anything about it?! After owning nothing but American cars for many years, I thought I was stepping "up" to a Toyota. Now I'm thinking of selling this while its still worth something, and buying a used Chevy. :(

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Bill G.
Reply to
DrWho

Tough break.

At this stage I dont think an oil switch is going to make any difference. The fast tapping noise needs to be identified (stating the obvious I know). If it was one noisy valve clearance, the noise would be slower occuring once every 2 engine revolutions,..but you describe it as being fast and distinct, not amongst other subdued engine noises. This points to engine parts which move many times compared to the engine speed liker the water-pump, oil-pump, any of the timing belt pulley-bearings and tensioner (I know you've done the tensioner),..the power-steering pump (drive pulley maybe chattering on the shaft?,..the PS-pump lives behind the engine down low...the alternator,..dizzy,..just about anything that moves.

I'd get a long screw-driver and use it as a stethoscope. Select one long enough to be able to probe the engine and to comfortabley rest your ear on. You'll hear a lot of different noises but the one you are after will be louder (should be).

Try listening to the water pump, easily accessed on the LH end above the AC-compressor. Check the AC compressor is not the source,...go upwards and probe the LH end of the head where the cam-scissor gears are,....probe the distributor, also the alternator and power-steering pump... you may get lucky and be able to localise it.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

--------------------------- Before you install anything else, or do anything else like changing lubricants, find out for sure where the noise originates. Either find a different mechanic who can assist, or try an inexpensive automotive stethoscope. Once found one with earpieces and a long hollow metal tube for around $10. You need to isolate the source before devising solutions. Could be a lifter out of adjustment, but there should not be metallic tapping noises. Age and mileage is still very low on your car. You shouldn't have expensive internal engine noises unless the car's been severely overheated or run low on oil. Just find out what's wrong before buying anything else. Could be something simple like loose exhaust heat shield rattling.

Reply to
Daniel

Yes. I agree with everything you said (except for a heat shield causing it). I don't know if you've followed this whole thread or not, but the reason I replaced the tensioner is that I was told by the dealership that it needed to be replaced. I'm not one to buy parts and install them, using a trial and error method to find the source of a problem.

I have been to 2 dealerships. The first said that the noise "is within the manufacturers specifications". Nonsense. The second dealer told me that the tensioner was bad. Unfortunately, this was also nonsense.

I will be purchasing a stethoscope this week.

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Bill G.
Reply to
DrWho

One of the reasons I bought the V6 version. When I took a test drive, the 4 cylinder was noisy and not as smooth at the V6.

Reply to
Car Guy

Dr Who,

My belt was squeaking on start-up, for roughly 20-minutes. It was worse on humid days. I do not recall hearing a sound similar to what you're describing.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

There are more 4 cylinder Toyotas on the road than six. I actually prefer the four - drove both.

Reply to
Daniel

There are more 4 cylinder Toyotas on the road than six. I actually prefer the four - drove both.

Reply to
Daniel

When the engine is warmed up, i find it very hard to hear any noise from it at all.. when cold, i.e when its been sitting for several days and i start it up and drive it in 20 deg F weather, i hear a slight engine noise but certainly not anything annoying or anything to get upset about.. if i had the radio going, i wouldnt even notice it.. once its warmed up, the only time i even notice any engine noise is when the car down shifts in a situation like passing another car in hard acceleration where it downshifts to a lower gear. at normal highway speeds the 4 cyl is around 2400 or 2500 rpm.. i cant even hear the engine at all at that rpm.. when it shifts down to the next lower gear , the rpm is closer to 3000 rpm and i can hear the engine somewhat at that point.. on hard acceleration where the rpm is around 4500, then you can certainly hear the engine working but nothing annoying. for the short time ive had the car, thats been my experience.

Reply to
mtroth

Re belt tensioner and belt squeaking -- I thought the new 4 cylinder engine in 2002 used a timimg chain rather than a belt. Guess it also has a tensioner -teething problems with new engine?

Al

Reply to
Allan

Serpentine drive belts nearly always have an automatic tensioner. That any multigroove belt can become impacted with debris (sand in particular) will contribute to squealing.

Reply to
Philip

Al,

The 2002 4-cyl does have a timing chain, and one serpentine belt.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

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