I have a '92 Camry LE with the 4 cyl. I have a very steady oil drip (about
one drop per second) that I originally thought was from the oil pan. Turns
out it was the oil pump which was dripping down onto the oil pan and running
down the sides. Who knew.
Anyhow, we'd already replaced the pump gear gasket but that obviously didn't
work, so now we're looking at the o-ring between the pump body and the pump
housing. Does anybody have any experience doing this? Do I need to take the
oil pan off to get at everything or can I do it all from the front (or side
as it were) of the engine through the wheel well? Does anyone know of any
tricks or caveats I should be aware of before attempthing this?
Thanks in advance!
I had this problem on my 1993 Camry 2.2 engine. It is not that hard to do.
The biggest problem is getting at it. It is the same as doing the timing
belt. You remove the side skirt under the fender and you remove the timing
belt top and bottom cover and now you will accesses to the bolts. before you
remove the bolts I used can of brake cleaner and sprayed the area all around
the oil pump body. I repeated a couple of times and used a small brush until
it was clean and dry (the cleaner the better). I then turned the engine on
and let it run for a few minutes and I could see the oil using out around
the oil pump body outer edge and work its way down the side and drip down.
This would verify that the O ring is the culprit. Mine was broken in four
places because it had become hard and brittle. I did not remove the oil pan.
I just removed the seven bolts holding the oil pump body to the oil pump
case. If you have the Haynes manual you can go to page 2A-16 and it shows
you the bots to remove. If you don't have a Haynes manual I would suggest to
get one. You will save the $20 that it costs the first time you use it. Make
sure you keep track of the position of the oil pump components so that you
can reinstall them the same way (especially the driven rotor if you are not
careful it will fall out). It should go back the same way it was when you
remove it. Look for a small dot to tell you which side to install it. Before
installing the new O ring clean all the components so that they are free of
any grit and dirt. I used Vaseline as suggested in the manual to hold the
new O ring in place when you go to reinstall the oil pump body. I did my two
years ago and it is still dry and clean. I have 225000 miles and it is still
going strong with original engine and transmission.
Hope this helps. Good luck. Alex
Thanks a bunch! That really gives me hope :)
I did verify that it is not the sending unit and the leak is indeed coming
from the pump. I'm also glad to hear I don't have to remove the pan since I
just replaced the gasket on that...
I do have a Haynes manual so I'll be sure to check that out.
I see the section you're looking at (page 2A-15, section 13).
Step one is remove the oil pan.
But look at step two - detach the oil pickup tube assembly. To do
that, you would need to remove the oil pan.
Now look at Figure 13.5b, the exploded view of oil pump components.
What you want to do is change the O-Ring located between the oil pump
body and the oil pump case.
If you look at the bottom of the oil pump case in the diagram, you can
see where the oil pan bolts to the bottom flange.
All you want to do is unbolt what I'd call the oil pump cover (they
call it oil pump body) to access the O-Ring.
Look at diagram 13.4 on the same page. You only need to remove the
four (4) bolts in the upper left hand corner not all the bolts shown.
In other words, you're not going to disturb the crankshaft oil seal by
removing the larger assembly they call the oil pump case, which does
attach to the oil pan in front.
Go back a few pages to 2A-9 and look at Photograph 7.31. The oil pump
sprocket is the first one up and to the left of the crankshaft at the
bottom. You can kinda see in the picture, that the oil pump cover is
only held in place by four bolts and isn't really close to the oil
While we're on the topic, here's a tip. It's easier to remove the
engine support bracket if you take off the crank pulley first - better
access to the bolts which are otherwise sorta hidden.
You speak of having changed the oil pump "gasket" - but that would be
the "O ring."
What you must have already changed is the seal for the shaft.
This is the most common source of leakage, so also examine the shaft
for any imperfections - nicks, scratches, etc. That could be the
source of your problem.
Also, it's not really the pump body and the pump housing, the oil pump
cover bolts directly to the engine block.
Seems odd to ask about the mechanics of changing the O ring if you've
already done the seal. Much of the procedure is the same, only
difference is you would be unbolting the oil pump cover to install the
Removal of the oil pan is not required, but you need to pull the
timing cover, drive belts and crankshaft pulley.
Only special tricks I've heard is that some people pack the oil pump
with petroleum jelly when reassembling to speed oil pressure buildup,
but assembly lube may work as well.
May be a good idea to replace the driven gear and oil pump shaft along
with another new oil pump seal. Yours is leaking a lot. Sounds like
more than would typically come from the O ring, though doesn't hurt to
change it while you're there.
By the way, this should be common knowledge, but you also need to
spread a bit of red grease around the lip of the new oil seal prior to
The good news is that if the leak is truly originating at the oil pump
and you change the seal (steel shaft is un marred) and O ring, those
are the only two potential leak sources, so that should definitely
Great, thanks for the additional info. It was indeed the shaft seal that we
replaced. It was easy to do while we were doing the timing belt and water
pump, but the Haynes manual talked about removing the pan to take the pump
out so I wanted to verify with folks that had done it already.
hi JCM900, I have the same problem (oil pump leaking), not as serious
though. Since I don't know cars very well, I brought it to the dealer
yesterday and they would charge me 13 hours of labor ($1200 including
parts). Just wondering if it is reasonable? Thanks.
Gross rip-off. To just do the oil-pump (they change the whole thing,..it
costs about $200 for the pump) should be around 3-4 hrs labor @ $50 hour or
whatever your rates are,..plus the $200 or so for pump + a new belt while
they are in there.
Most likely oil pump seal - recently purchased one (genuine Toyota
part) for $5.04 (USD) on the Internet. Usually done with the timing
belt. If you wanted to go further and replace the oil pump cover
O-ring - recently purchased one on the Internet for $9.35.
Once heard an experienced technician can change a timing belt only in
30 minutes actual time, though may bill higher for standard rate.
If you "don't know cars very well" how do you know the oil pump is
Generally one has to remove the timing belt cover to observe - and
once you've gone that far, it is fairly simple to change the timing
belt or any seals that need replacement.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.