94 Camry Not starting out in 1st gear.

How old is the oil

Reply to
ransley
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I once had that issue, even though my oil was only 6000 miles old I had the pan dropped and a new filter put in, it worked fine, any debris can cause a malfunction.

Reply to
ransley

We are working on a 94 Camry, and it will start out in high. No power off the line. In other words it is not automatically shifting back down to low gear,but staying up in high. If you shift manually ,it is OK. Is there a solenoid or anything that controls the shift? Or is it like the old time GM transmissions, IIRC it was a stuck governor? Thanks Tony

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

How old is the oil Good point. I have not had a chance to look at the car at all yet, my buddy did drive it, but not sure if he checked the oil condition or the level yet. We will probably have the car on Tuesday. Thanks, Tony

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

That should be an Aisin A-140E series transmission. It's electronically controlled with shift solenoids. No modulator no governor. It's actually better than the U-series they make later.

Besides fluid and strainer change you should start by checking the state of the shift solenoids. First use a voltmeter to check the right ones are activated. Sounds like the wrong combination of them are stuck.

If the solenoids are not stuck then the apply devices or clutch pack/ brake band should be suspect.

Reply to
johngdole

Besides fluid and strainer change you should start by checking the state of the shift solenoids. First use a voltmeter to check the right ones are activated. Sounds like the wrong combination of them are stuck.

If the solenoids are not stuck then the apply devices or clutch pack/ brake band should be suspect. Don't have a manual for this car, any links by chance to do this with?? Thanjs Tony

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

Besides fluid and strainer change you should start by checking the state of the shift solenoids. First use a voltmeter to check the right ones are activated. Sounds like the wrong combination of them are stuck.

If the solenoids are not stuck then the apply devices or clutch pack/ brake band should be suspect. Don't have a manual for this car, any links by chance to do this with?? Thanks Tony

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

Can any one tell me how to pull the trouble codes from this car.

94 Toyota Camry. The check ending light is on. My buddy says he can only scan the 96 and up on the Toyota's. Auto zone told me the same thing, 96 and up only. I'm thinking we might have a VSS or some other sensor adding to the problem. Thanks, Tony
Reply to
Anthony Diodati

I did find this page, Not sure, don't have the car yet, but I think it's the 4 cyls that are OBD I and the 6 cylinders that are the OBD II and need a scan tool. Called the other Auto Zone, and He said some 94's are OBD II but if it is, he can scan it.

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Reply to
Anthony Diodati

"> I did find this page,

I guess there is no way to get the codes out of this thing. Auto Zone could not do it either. Turn's out it IS a 6 cylinder motor, so jumping out the connector

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)would not work either.Do you think the Toyota Dealer is the only one who will be able to get the codes or to scan it? Thanks, Tony

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

I don't see anything on Autozone's free online repair guide. However, an educational website with Toyota sponsored info you can also take a look at the "technical articles" on

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This inlcudes the transmission solenoid operation, On/Off combinations etc.
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pages 11 and 15.

If solenoids #1 is ON and #2 goes from ON to OFF, in D, while shifted from 2nd into 1st gear then you're OK. Then you should suspect that lack of ATF changes caused debris to stick shift valve 1-2. In which case you may have to clean the valve body and all the valves. Kinda major for a backyard mechanic and you need a valve body gasket set plus a ATF strainer/pan gasket set ($20 Fram ATF kit works well). That's not to say clutch packs and brake bands and their apply devices do have problems.

That's why 15-30K mile strainer/ATF change is so important in these dirty transmissions.

Reply to
johngdole

If solenoids #1 is ON and #2 goes from ON to OFF, in D, while shifted from 2nd into 1st gear then you're OK. Then you should suspect that lack of ATF changes caused debris to stick shift valve 1-2. In which case you may have to clean the valve body and all the valves. Kinda major for a backyard mechanic and you need a valve body gasket set plus a ATF strainer/pan gasket set ($20 Fram ATF kit works well). That's not to say clutch packs and brake bands and their apply devices do have problems.

That's why 15-30K mile strainer/ATF change is so important in these dirty transmissions.

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

Actually I would suspect more of a Shift Solenoid #1/#2 problem than TPS/VSS for the MIL light, if there are no sticking in the valve bodies. Earlier A540 series transmissions suffer from low line pressure rise related problems and therefore excessive wear. I wouldn't be surprised if this was wear particle related, as Toyota/ Aisin took the cheap way out in not installing a decent filter.

So what's maintenance like on this tranny? Fluid changes? New strainer?

According to the free repair guide on Autozone, the 1MZFE started using OBD-II in 1994, and the 4 cyls (5SFE) later in 1996. Maybe that engine is produced just right before the OBD-II start date? I don't know. You can check on Autozone's free repair guide on how to read the codes off non OBD-II systems. Probably won't hurt to give it a try (don't know if it's the same procedure as others posted). If this works it'll save you some money.

It's under "Driveability & Emissions"->"Read Codes"

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OBD-II readers should have given you the generic codes unless Toyota locked them out as proprietary codes.

Reply to
johngdole

So what's maintenance like on this tranny? Fluid changes? New strainer?

According to the free repair guide on Autozone, the 1MZFE started using OBD-II in 1994, and the 4 cyls (5SFE) later in 1996. Maybe that engine is produced just right before the OBD-II start date? I don't know. You can check on Autozone's free repair guide on how to read the codes off non OBD-II systems. Probably won't hurt to give it a try (don't know if it's the same procedure as others posted). If this works it'll save you some money.

It's under "Driveability & Emissions"->"Read Codes"

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OBD-II readers should have given you the generic codes unless Toyota locked them out as proprietary codes.

Hey Thanks for all your help. You sound like a Toyota Tech?? No we tried jumping terminals TE1 and E1 , under the hood, but the light would not flash. I even read in one of the Toyota PDF manuals you sent the link to, about jumping terminals TE1 and E1 , and watching the O/D light off light, But no go either. I read on one of the sites, where the 94 6 cylinder Camry was a "early OBD II" But like I said, My buddies E-Z link scanner would not hook up to it, nor Auto- Zones Scanner. I talked to the Service Writer at the Toyota dealer, and he said something like $80.00 just to scan it, but he even said they might have to jump it out and read the codes manually. Unless I'm missing something here, like I mentioned, I couldn't get the codes out by jumping the TE1 and E1 terminals. He said "you Probably have a stuck Shift Solenoid like you said, and suggested flushing the transmission , so the owner of the car agreed to

*try* this. We are secluded Wednesday to have this done. As far as the service history, I have no Idea, These folks work at the Chinese Restaurant, and I have to go through one of the owners as an interrupter, as he is a little hard to talk to. But I also think the owner is like the 3rd. owner.

So again thanks for all your help thus far, Tony

Reply to
Anthony Diodati
  1. Manually shift into L. Now does the transmission go into 1st gear? If the valve body isn't sticking then you should be able to do so. Then we can probably say that hard parts are fine and the problem is with the solenoids.

  1. Usually the first thing to do when a transmission is acting up is to change the strainer/pan gasket/fluid. Clean the pan. Don't introduce lint into the system in the process. Pay attention to the proper refill level.

Again, $20 Fram ATF kit with cork rubber pan gasket works well for me. GM Dexron III ATF supersedes Dexron II. I guess no choice here.

Fluid exchange machines exchanges 95% of the fluid but doesn't clean the pan for you, so that's kinda useless given the cost. (I don't think there are reverse "power flush" machines any more. These stir up debris and jam the valve bodies.)

  1. Yes, some OBD-II implementations are NOT fully compliant. I hope this is not the source of your problems in reading them with a OBD-II scanner (EZ-Scan, Autozone) but sounds like it may be.

If you open up the hood and look for a sticker, you should see one that says "OBD" or "OBD-II". That will tell you for sure which diagnostics standard that particular car uses. We are curious too. :)

  1. Well, if the owner pays then Toyota should be able to give a diagnosis instead just a few codes I hope.

Good luck!

Reply to
johngdole
  1. Manually shift into L. Now does the transmission go into 1st gear? If the valve body isn't sticking then you should be able to do so. Then we can probably say that hard parts are fine and the problem is with the solenoids.

  1. Usually the first thing to do when a transmission is acting up is to change the strainer/pan gasket/fluid. Clean the pan. Don't introduce lint into the system in the process. Pay attention to the proper refill level.

Again, $20 Fram ATF kit with cork rubber pan gasket works well for me. GM Dexron III ATF supersedes Dexron II. I guess no choice here.

Fluid exchange machines exchanges 95% of the fluid but doesn't clean the pan for you, so that's kinda useless given the cost. (I don't think there are reverse "power flush" machines any more. These stir up debris and jam the valve bodies.)

  1. Yes, some OBD-II implementations are NOT fully compliant. I hope this is not the source of your problems in reading them with a OBD-II scanner (EZ-Scan, Autozone) but sounds like it may be.

If you open up the hood and look for a sticker, you should see one that says "OBD" or "OBD-II". That will tell you for sure which diagnostics standard that particular car uses. We are curious too. :)

  1. Well, if the owner pays then Toyota should be able to give a diagnosis instead just a few codes I hope.

Good luck!

Reply to
Anthony Diodati
  1. Manually shift into L. Now does the transmission go into 1st gear? If the valve body isn't sticking then you should be able to do so. Then we can probably say that hard parts are fine and the problem is with the solenoids.

  1. Usually the first thing to do when a transmission is acting up is to change the strainer/pan gasket/fluid. Clean the pan. Don't introduce lint into the system in the process. Pay attention to the proper refill level.

Again, $20 Fram ATF kit with cork rubber pan gasket works well for me. GM Dexron III ATF supersedes Dexron II. I guess no choice here.

Fluid exchange machines exchanges 95% of the fluid but doesn't clean the pan for you, so that's kinda useless given the cost. (I don't think there are reverse "power flush" machines any more. These stir up debris and jam the valve bodies.)

  1. Yes, some OBD-II implementations are NOT fully compliant. I hope this is not the source of your problems in reading them with a OBD-II scanner (EZ-Scan, Autozone) but sounds like it may be.

If you open up the hood and look for a sticker, you should see one that says "OBD" or "OBD-II". That will tell you for sure which diagnostics standard that particular car uses. We are curious too. :)

  1. Well, if the owner pays then Toyota should be able to give a diagnosis instead just a few codes I hope.

Good luck!

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

Well we decided to try the trans flush. Garage owner and his mechanic worked on it for about 1/2 hour. Told me his machine would not allow them to flush it, and his machine used the transmission pump to pump the fluid through. He suspects a bad front pump on our car. I said OK ,makes sense and left. Driving back though, I thought if the pump was bad, the car would not run as good as it does in manual low. Do you still think it would pay to change the filter and fluid? Tony

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

Well, ATF and strainer change is usually the first thing you do when a transmission starts to act up. However, if the problem is with the valve bodies, then it will depend on how bad things are sticking (that's why it helps with regular ATF/strainer change). If the problem is with bad shift solenoids, then obviously replacing them is the only option. Then you can decide if you just want to go straight to solenids and valve body.

Cleaning the valve body or changing the solenoids are not difficult tasks for the mechanically inclined. But will cost if you go to a mechanic.

Ok, while the primary suspects are the solenoids or a stuck valve in the valve body, let's try:

  1. What's the condition of the transmission fluid? Red, brown, black? Smell burnt? Wear particles in fluid?

  1. Shift into L. Does the transmission go into 1st or even 2nd gear?

  2. The Check Engine codes really should be read. Post them here.

Reply to
johngdole

Cleaning the valve body or changing the solenoids are not difficult tasks for the mechanically inclined. But will cost if you go to a mechanic.

Ok, while the primary suspects are the solenoids or a stuck valve in the valve body, let's try:

  1. What's the condition of the transmission fluid? Red, brown, black? Smell burnt? Wear particles in fluid?

  1. Shift into L. Does the transmission go into 1st or even 2nd gear?

  2. The Check Engine codes really should be read. Post them here.

I cant pull them No matter what I do. I did try jumping the connector under the hood, think it was E1 and TE1 according to what I found on line, but nothing would flash. Thanks, Tony

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

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