Don't know for sure since I never had to do one on my Camry but its usually fairly inexpensive and not too difficult. Combine this fix with changing the coolant and possibly the hoses to complete the job.
Phil All my points are accurate and I said 110-120, not 100-120. Motors running cold increase friction, carbon, oil degradation [ oil does not get hot enough to cook out moisture-pollutants] you decrease milage and increase pollution . Winter running and alot of short trips have the same effect, but OP is running way to cold continously. Also running at highway out of overdrive cold increases the chance of the oil filter bypass flowing dirty oil. Phil you`ve got alot to learn.
In the abstract environment of your classroom. Since the OP's condition has not been going on for years, his only immediate 'problem' is the OD prevention.
And Ransely my dear fellow ... you have a demonstrable amount of memorized material to replace with experience.
-- ~Philip.
Phil learn to read, read OPs post, he said " winters", that means years. Sorry phill my knowledge is from experience yours is ignorance of facts. Operating a motor below 140f causes all the problems I listed, obviously his is running below 120.
Philly where is your proof that " all" my info is wrong,, fact, you are wrong and an idiot
Thanks a lot for the help guys. Replacing the Thermostat and coolant flush seems to have solved most of my problems. Temperature needles goes to about 50% mark now and transmission is working like a charm.
But I am still having little problem with interior warming up specially the rear defroster. Heat doesnt seem to be working very well inside :
What is your antifreeze mix, if it is over 50% you will get Less heat.
Really? What's your "reasoning?"
-- ~Philip.
snip
Backflushing heater cores is useless simply because they clog up with the same hard mineral deposits that occur in the radiator. You'd need a pick to dislodge the deposits or a chemical to dissolve them.
Insufficient cabin heat (when a properly working engine thermostat is present) is more often a matter of defective water control valves and air control door operation in the under dash plenum. --
~Philip.
Usually I agree with you Phil. I can't on this one as I've backflushed several dozen vehicles with clogged heater cores. A small percentage won't unclog and will have to be replaced. A quick test is to feel heater hoses at the firewall or heater air box. If one hose is hot and other is cold then core is blocked. If both are hot then you have water flow through core so, follow Phil's advice on checking blend doors. If both are cold then follow Phil's advice on water control valve (if applicable) or possibly a restriction in heater hose between water pump and heater core. I've seen a few cases where the hose is stryating and will block flow. HTH, davidj92
It is a fact Phil antifreeze does not conduct heat as well as water. Didnt you ever wonder why 70% antifreeze is the max toyota recomends, in summer the motor will run to hot. I live where it gets to -20, a friend was happy he had 100% antifreeze but complained of no heat, he diluted the mix to 50% and his heater worked fine. Water is a great conductor of heat.
Race engines often use just plain water - 10% antifreeze because antifreeze makes them run hotter. Often just 8oz of an anticorrosive is used. Electric water pumps are common to keep cooant circulating after the motor is shut down to preven boiling in the heads.
Splitting a hair: the specific heat of the liquid fluid is what is important. Cv measures how much heat can be held in a unit volume of the liquid. The rate that it conducts heat isn't.
It isnt splitting a hair when you are cold and need heat output. When it is -10 out you need heat fast. I recently flushed my system, I was running a mix to -10f apx 35% and put in to much lowering freeze to
-84 or 70% , my heat output was much lower, noticably, so I lowered it back to 50% . The true need for most is in the anti corrosive features of anti freeze. Red Line Water Wetter is a good anti corrosive product that can allow for using less than a 50% mix. You may argue boil over protection but water under 15lb wont boil till 248f anyway.
I qualified my statement. When the heater core is clogged up with mineral deposits, then backflushing will do no good because these minerals are nearly bonded to the heater core metal. Now if what is restricting the flow is bits of rubber or gelled globules of anti freeze then ... back flushing can dislodge this stuff successfully.
How do you ascertain that the coolant control valve is not defective? If only the valve is practically obstructed then your test is not conclusive.
We're still on the same page, pretty much. LOL
-- ~Philip.
The heat of the coolant is regulated by the thermostat. Whatever the opening threshold of the thermostat is ... that will be the operating temperature of the coolant. Now ... the temperature of the engine block and head will run higher as you increase the concentration of coolant to water simply because ethylene glycol does not absorb nor release heat as quickly as straight water. So, we are on the same page on that point.
Now, where a good flowing heater core is in place (ditto the heater's coolant control valve) I defy you to measure any meaningful difference in heat output to the passenger compartment when comparing a 70% vs. a 30% coolant/water mixture. You should be correct academically ... while I deal with where the rubber meets the road.
-- ~Philip.
Agreed.
-- ~Philip.
Actually, straight water is a SAFETY requirement. Blow a hose with only water ... the water evaporates from the track with no residue. Blow a hose with 50/50 ethylene glycol and water ... you get a slippery area of pavement that depending on location, would cause spin outs for quite some time. Glycol is oily!
-- ~Philip.
If the rate heat is conducted was not important we would be using oil in cooling systems, and it would last the cars lifetime on corosion. Heat transfer is what is most relavent, in cooling the motor and heating the interior.
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