96 camry 4 door 4 cyl with power door locks and windows. The drivers side switch open the locks, but won't close them when you hit the switch. The passenger side door lock works both doors. Just the drivers side won't. It will unlock, but not lock.
I have tried a new switch, still same problem. Went to dismantlers, tried
5 of their switches, same problem, so I guess it's not the switch.
Tried another auctuator (spelling) from a dismantler, still same problem.
If I were in your position I would try to access a wiring schematic of your vehicle. It will allow you to trace the circuit, and zero in on the cause of your problem.
I have a '96 in the same basic configuration as yours. I recently had issues with the power windows, and borrowed a service manual from a friend (who no longer lives in the area :-[ ) to trouble shoot the problem. In my case the window motor circuits were interlocked through the master switch at the drivers position, and each door position. Thus the inoperative passenger window was actually caused by a defect in the driver position switch.
I recall looking at the circuit for the door locks, but didn't pay real close attention because it wasn't an issue for me. As I recall the door lock mechanism was actuated by a small actuator, or motor, that is operated by a Door Lock Relay, controlled by a switch located at the driver's and passenger's door, and a switch mounted on the driver's side keyed door lock. The direction of the actuator is controlled by the polarity of the voltage presented to the actuator by the Door Lock Control Relay. The switches at the front doors switch one of two coils in the relay to ground. I suspect that the two door switches might be interlocked similar to the window switches to prevent the possibility of both coils being energized at the same time.
That said I believe you need to examine the switch you removed from the driver's position, and if there are three terminals (SPDT) the two switches aren't interlocked directly. If they are it could be the passenger switch that's causing your issue at the driver's position. Next you need to check the wiring between the switches and the Door Lock Relay/ground, and the operation of the relay itself. From your description it would appear that the wiring between the relay and actuators, and the actuators themselves are operational.
The use of a cheap digital multimeter on a volts range which can handle 12v will assist as well.
If the terminals are fully covered with insulation, a pin (as in pins and needles) can be pushed through the insulation on the wire to make contact with theconductor inside.
After you get a big headache looking at schematics and measuring voltages and generally knocking yourself out, you can examine the wiring harness just inside the door where it flexes inside the rubber boot that runs into the body. Under the tape you'll probably find cracked, hardened insulation and maybe a broken wire or two :) If you insist on using a meter, the harness ends about 4 inches inside the drivers left kick panel in 2 plugs that go into a junction box. Pull the plugs and door panel and check for continuity...
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