Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must the drum brakes come out too?
If I remember correctly, you'll have to remove the drum and press the old bolt out. Then press a new one in. You can probably get them at AutoZone, although they have been cutting back on the hardware they keep in stock.
Have a look at the condition of the shoes. Since you already have the drum off anyway...
The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety glasses when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted on so that there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you install the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
Hammering it out sounds like a very bad idea (easily to elongate the hole so that a new stud won't fit in tightly). It would be better to use an actual press...or at least try using a vise or two (slowly tightening the vise(s) so as to act as a 'press').
You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind the flange that the studs are mounted in. To remove the drum, you may have to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered by an oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate. After backing off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in the threaded openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the bolts alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole. To replace the stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the hole in the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut. You can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and tighten the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats itself.
There is a special service tool that looks like a c-clamp, with the base of the clamp being more of a c-shape. Screwing down on the clamp on the top of the stud pushes the stud through, and the opening at the base of the clamp allows the stud to move past. I've never looked, but auto parts stores might sell or lend the tool.
A press or vice would theoretically be better than a hammer because the force would be applied perpendicular to the flange, but to use a press, the flange and hub would have to be disassembled, which is more work. The stud is made of softer material than the flange, so it should deform before the flange does.
On my previous Corollas that has happened to me three or four times in 8 years, when loosening the nuts. The cause was probably combinations of some of the following:
Oh whoops I get it now... just remove the brake drum, but not the brake shoes, right? I thought I had to remove the brake shoes, springs, etc. But the drum itself, that's pretty easy... did that before.
Oh whoops I get it now... just remove the brake drum, but not the brake shoes, right? I thought I had to remove the brake shoes, springs, etc. But the drum itself, that's pretty easy... did that before.
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