question re steering pump removal from '95 1MZ-FE engine

Three manuals describe pump removal as simply removing two hoses and loosening two nuts. With a pump seal kit in the mail, I peeked at the pump this morning and couldn't view or touch the banjo/union nut attaching the pressure hose. Will this hose become accessible after I remove the power steering belt, or is there a special tool or trick?

Thank you, Gordon

Reply to
Gordon
Loading thread data ...

May have to loosen pump and move it, to get clearance to the banjo bolt. Whats the problem with the pump? leaking? Jim

Reply to
jjjsan

Yes, Jim, it has been leaking for over a year. The repair kit is under $22. Repair estimates range from $350 (kit) to over $600 (rebuilt). Pump removal and installation are the major challenges.

-Gordon

Reply to
Gordon

I seem to remember having to loosen the pump and and pry the bottom towards the firewall (as if you were tightening the belt). That puts the banjo union upright, and you can get a 22mm (I think, maybe 21) socket on the fitting from the top with a universal joint and extension. The PS pressure signal wire plugs into the top of the union. Unplug it, and you should see what you have to do. Post if you need a hand.

Reply to
qslim

Are you sure the PS pump is leaking and not the high pres hose? I was told my pump and Rack was leaking and going to cost big $$$$. After some close inspection, found the high press hose had a leak. Cost $30 for hose. The fluid driped down and coats the pump and Rack, which appeared to be the source of the leaks. Not sure what it takes to replace seal in the pump. Might want to refer to toyota service manual for correct steps. Jim

Reply to
jjjsan

I've been changing the p.s. reservoir fluid regularly (battery filler - rubber bulb and long plastic tube make this simple and inexpensive) with Mobil 1 ATF and a small amount of Lucas power steering fix as preventative maintenance to avoid this scenario, and so far, not a drop leaking, but copied the following from a newsgroup some time back - haven't tried it, but you may find helpful: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Just went through that with my 94 Camry LX sedan. As noted in some other messages, its a bitch - but it can be done.

First, make sure its actually the PS pump. In my case I was ready to purchase a rebuilt pump for about $140. Just to make sure, I took a closer look - it turned out the pressure hose was actually the problem. It was leaking at about mid-point and dripping down on the PS pump so it looked like the PS pump was the problem.

OK, so I purchased a 3'd party pressure hose at about $60 (later found a closer parts house with one for $27 that looked just about as good). On to the removal.

The only way to get the PS pump out is by bringing it, along with the pressure hose, down between the axle and steering arm. In my case I had to bring the return hose down with it also since the clamp was positioned so I couldn't loosen it.

First steps to do this are remove the tire, the fender screen and the under-body-cross brace and detach the steering arm at the knuckle. I found out by breaking a socket that the cross brace is on pretty solid. You need an air impact wrench. In fact, my 20 year old $29.95 special wasn't up to the job. Off to the store to purchase a newer "heavy duty" model, advertising 330 ft-lbs of torque. That did the job. You'll also need either a puller or a "pickle fork" to break loose the steering arm. (** if he's talking about the tie rod end, I recently found a puller that worked great for $6.95 at Harbor Freight called "tie rod end puller") One of those special wrenches made for working on flare nut connections will also be useful for breaking the connection on the pressure hose at the top of the fire wall.

Pretty straight forward from there except for the PS pump through bolt. Its a 14 mm bolt that's almost impossible to reach sitting there above the pulley. I finally got it by putting my 14 mm impact socket in my 1/2 inch drive ratchet (my 1/2 inch drive regular socket set only went down to 15 mm), but only inserting the drive about 1/4 inch. That gave just enough clearance for the ratchet handle to clear the pulley. I'm sure NAPA or someone sells a slightly longer socket ("deep" socket won't fit - the body panel gets in the way - you need something between the "deep" socket and a standard socket length) that would work, but by this time all the stores were closed.

Only other issue is the copper washer on the pressure hose where it attaches to the PS pump. Toyota and the pros say replace the washer. My pressure hose didn't come with a washer, however. Toyota wanted to sell me the washer with a new hose attached for $140. Went to the local parts store and asked if they has washers and they said "no- the come with our $27 hose." I said "OK, lets take a look." Brought out the hose - no washer.

I ended up re-using the old washer. No problem with leakage. I'm not a pro, but I think the issue is work hardening of the washer through successive installations. In this case, the hose had never been off before so it was only the second time the washer had been used and it probably had enough resilency to seal. If I was a pro I'd probably know where to get the washers and would consider it cheap insurance against an irate customer driven re-do so would certainly replace it.

Hope this helps.

Art Coe

Reply to
Daniel

Hi Gordon,

I just had the same problem on a 1995 4 Cyl CAMRY.

I was dripping some thing on the drive but could not see where it was from.

I took it to a garage I trust. They popped it up on the ramp and declared a leaking PS pump. There advice was if its not real bad just keep topping up the reservoir.

I was not convinced that it was the pump as I was loosing NO fluid.

I done a check by collecting one or two drips of what I was loosing on to a bit of clean metal sheet.

I then took the engine dipstick out and put a couple of drips near to the first. I then done same with PS Fluid...Gearbox fluid.

It was obvious when I could see a sample of them all that it was ENGINE OIL not steering fluid.

I got some GUNK and washed down the back of the engine block as best I could. And there it was. I tiny drip from the Rocker Box cover. Down on to a pipe, that then ran on to the top of the Steering pump.

The cover is held down with 30mm nuts on top of the Spark Plug tubes. They pulled up easy. Now no leak. I have purchased a gasket so I will replace next time I am doing my maintaince day.

Toyota quoted £480 ( US$ 864 ) for a new pump. I was told that there was no service kit available. Labour was quoted at 4 Hours @ £55.00 ( US$99 per hour ).

I am sure on the 4cyl that there is an inspection hatch in the inside of the wing ( fender ) that makes for a lot easier access.

Just my 2Pence.

JM UK.

Reply to
JM
93 4cyl. Unfortunately I had a local garage replace a return line that I was shown was corroded. Co-incidence that it was leaking morning after exhaust system replacement. It was definitely rusty though.

Line: $136

2 hours labor $120

Total: $256

Seemed awfully high to me but I needed the car fixed right away so I did it. I think I'll go back to using the dealer again.

Marc

Reply to
Marc

formatting link
check out the section on steering.

according to the manual, you should be able to remove from the passenger side

Reply to
Daniel

Thanks for the link to those Camry manuals, Daniel! They are a treasure, although one should not believe every assertion. E.g. the manual states that the V6 timing belt is 55" when it is in fact 65". (I feared I had the wrong one.) I didn't see a good discussion of the expensive power steering pressure hose, which jjjsan and others have suspected. Two mechanics are sure that the pump is leaking -- and perhaps the hose as well. This weekend or next we'll discover the truth. Cheers, Gordon

Reply to
Gordon

If it happens you need the hose, you might try checking here:

formatting link

Reply to
Daniel

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.