740 Camshaft Removal Question

Well, the Volvo's out of commission for at least a week. Today while giving it a once-over, I saw the hall sensor connector on the distributor dangling. I broke the housing (but not the wiring) a few weeks ago when I took off the distributor. I put a quick patch and that didn't hold then.

So, today I pulled the distributor off the motor and saw I had also cracked the cap last time too.

Having these issues, I am going to replace the o-rings for the distributor and buy a new cap. And, while it's off, I'll leave it off so that next week I'll pull the cam and replace the valve shims and hushers.

I guess if you're going to do it, do it right.

Jamie wrote:

Frustrating, I know. It would be better if the distributor were more accessible. The Hall sensor connector on mine broke loose when I tried to disconnect it, so I cleaned the distributor and JB Welded the connector in place (being careful not to interfere with where the cap fit). Much better now.

Putting the distributor back on the head presents you with a devil's choice. If you try to do it with the cap off (so you can turn the rotor as necessary) it is a real beast to get the cap on. If you try to do it with the cap on you can't line up the rotor. Aagh! You really have to do it with the cap off, I think.

Mike

That's an interesting point. Last time I pulled the distributor off, I didn't separate the cap. I pulled the whole thing off. To align it, I simply rotated the whole assembly until it slipped into place, then bolted it back on.

I was planning on installing it in 2 pieces this time, since I have the A/C hose to the compressor off. That will help a bunch.

I'm combining jobs - valve shims and hushers, and R12 to R134 retrofit.

Anyone want to come by and lend a hand? LOL.

JB

I'm doing all the front end bushings next, then installing shocks. I know this darn Volvo better than I want to my friends! ;-)

Michael Pardee wrote:

In article , snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com says...

IF this is an F motor: Remove the top section of the timing belt cover. Turn the the motor to the alignment marks. TDC #1 firing. Using a counterhold of some type, or simply a small impact gun remove the cam pulley bolt. Slacken the nut on the belt tensioner. Using a prybar against the jackshaft pulley collapse the tensioner spring and retighten the lock nut. Slip the belt forward away from the pulley. Remove the pulley. Note the position and condition of the roll pin that locates the pulley on the cam shaft. Note the direction of the cam shaft caps and if they aren't numbered number them so they can be reinstalled in the proper orientation without any fuss on reassembly. If a cap is installed backwards it won't complain until you go to the final torque and then split clean across the top center. You don't want that. Caps aren't available separately so you'll have to find a junk head, get another cap, dismantle the head, find someone with the tooling and alignbore the camshaft tray with the "new" cap onstalled. Slacken the nuts on the cam caps evenly a few turns at a time. Use sort of a criss-cross head bolt pattern. The idea is to keep the shaft as parallel as possible to the head since there is a lcating or thrust ring on the shaft that limits the front-rear travel of the shaft in the head and if the shaft c**ks to much you can crack the locating lands. As you remove the tension on the nuts the spring pressesur from the open valve will push the caps off their dowel sleeves and studs. If a cap is sticking just tap it with a small hammer and it will pop loose. Remove the shaft and set it aside. For now, wipe off the shims and mark them 1-8 from from to back. Remove the tappets and shims together and set them aside in order. As a general rule a tappet should always live in the bore it was born in. The same goes for valve springs, valve spring seats and retainers. It helps to mark a piece of cardboard with the numbers 1-8 and set all the components on it. Scrape the remnants of the old dampeners off the underside of each tappet. Fish the broken bits off the valve stem and from around the spring. Use a dab of STP or clean wheel bearing grease to hold the new dampeners in position on the valve stem. Top hat down, brim up. Brush some lube in the tappet bores and install them in order. [Since you already know what shims you're going to use with which tappets change them now. Brush some lube in the tappet shim recess install shim, brush some lube on the shim, install in head.] Brush some lube on the cam bearing surfaces and set the cam in place with the roll pine pointed roughly in the same direction it pointed when you pulled it out a few minutes ago. Brush some lube on the bearing surface of the cam caps and set them on the cam in proper order. Set the wave washers and nuts on as many of the studs as you can and staart them finger tight. Look at the cam shaft. You will see that two cam lobes are holding the cam "up." you want to tighten the nuts on the caps either side of these lobes slowly and consistently until the cam is fully seated in the cam tray portion if the head. NB: Since this is an F motor and the valves will not touch the pistons you can turn the cam through 360* and not worry about collision. If the head has been planed or milled in excess of 0.030" or had E or K motor raised top pistons installed this is not true and the valves will hit. Anyway you can turn the cam by hand (install the pulley and use a wrench, turn in the normal direction of rotation) and check the clearances. You will notice that the correct clearnce will feel very tight compared to the way it felt before the dampeners were installed, so check the clearnces where the shim hasn't been changed first to get an idea of what you feeling for. When you're satified with the clearances, test all the cam caps nuts for tight. Turn the cam to TDC #1 firing, check the crankshaft alignment mark. Set the belt back on and release the tensioner nut and retighten. Turn the motor through two turns by hand and recheck the timing marks. If they're correct button it up. If not adjust the belt one tooth one way or the other follwing the steps above. Retest. Button it up. No muss, no fuss. Actual time working steadily: 1.5-2.0 hrs. Flat rate time: 2.9-4.1 hours. Tips. If you do the dist seals and such, set the distributor in place before you tighten down the rear cam cap. That way you can see what you're doing and you only have to turn in the two hold down screws after you set the cam cove back on. When installing a new cam cover gasket add a dab of sealer in the "corners" where the gasket rises over the front and rear cam caps, both top and bottom. Replace the oil cap seal at the same time, It's about a buck and will keep the top of the cover clean and dry for another 30K miles. Don't forget the two braided ground straps on the rear two cam cover bolts. Run the motor for fifteen minutes, let cool, tweak the four front and rear nuts on the valve cover.

Bob

Those stupid connectors are one of just a few real weak spots on those cars. Fortunately you can buy just the connector shell online.

Thanks Bob! That is a really great, and really detailed description. Much appreciated!

Jamie

User wrote:

I think I mainly only broke the Hall sensor connector body away from the metal. The housing is still completely intact -- just detached. I think I'll try some JB Weld.

James Sweet wrote:

I see the part at FCP Groton - and may just order it.

PS: I am looking at replacement seals for my distributor. I need the small and large seals that go on the shaft. FCP Groton shows two large seals:

They call this the large seal (to head):

This is just called the large seal: Are they the same? I heard about a green seal of better material, but don't know if this is it, or a different seal.

James Sweet wrote:

949659 is the 34mm green seal, 969330 is the swmall seal, 6mm.