replaced sprakplugs, have questions

Hello all,

I have succesfully replaced all 4 spark plugs on my '99 Camry , 113K miles bought new.

As far as I can remember, the spark plugs are never changed since I bought the car new. Cylinder 1 sparkplug was a bit tough to remove but eventually came off. I used renetrating oil and let if for an hour. The old plugs are some what worn and are dark grey in color but there is no oil on the tip. I replaced with new OEM NGK plugs from dealer and used bit of anti-seize compound as well.

I feel a bit more brisk acceleration now and yet to verify any mileage improvement. BUT there is a very slight shimmy kind of vibrations on steering wheel now. Not sure it is due to new plugs

Only issue is - I could not get a torque wrench that can be set to

19lb-ft , all I saw at sears are at least 50lb-ft and above. So I hand tightened. I found a toque wrench elase where that can be set to 19lb-ft. My question is Can I use the torque wrench now to re-tighten to correct torque?

I have not changed wires. When should I change and what price approx?

TIA

Reply to
vktechmails
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You should change the wires at the same time you change the plugs, and it will be anywhere from $68 to $100 depending on if you get a discount or which dealer.

I don't think the shimmy is from the plugs, unless one is missing (from old wires?) Check you tire pressures.

Reply to
Hachiroku

The "beam" type torque wrenches are best for low torque - the kind where the main beam of the wrench bends and a pointer indicates how much on a scale. Go ahead and check that the plugs are tightened to the correct torque, but I wouldn't loosen them because the crush washer at their base would then have to be re compressed from a used condition. Spark plug wires should be genuine Toyota parts only for best results. You can check online for more competitive prices.

Reply to
Daniel

Yes. Loosen first otherwise if too tight you won't know, and if too loose the "starting friction" might fool the wrench.

I just paid about $AUS100 (non geniune) including the dist. cap. Change them if they show a lot of sparks in the dark, if they measure almost infinite or eratic resistance, show damage (as mine did with a cracked stalk end), or if you have tried almost everything else to fix a problem...

Reply to
jg

Also, make sure the plug wires fully seated and are not touching each other. They should be routed the same way as factory if you remember what it looked like, if not check Haynes manual pictures for some guidance.

Harbor Freight has 0-80 ft/lb 3/8"-drive torque wrench for about $12. Good deal for the home mechanic.

You can try reseating the wires before changing them out. Changing wires may not help if the problems are with the plugs/installation.

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Reply to
johngdole

Smart to use the anti-seize! I also use the dielectric silicone grease on the tops of plugs where the wire/boot snaps on. Often on new models the distributor cap comes with the plug wires attached. I ordered mine from one of the mail order OEM discount yota parts place -- along with air and oil filters -- 20-30% savings and some ship free if over x$. Was probably $60 or so?

Reply to
Wolfgang

Thanks for the replies, guys. I have asked my local toyota delaer for ignition wires. They have DENSO make wires for $85. They do not have NGK. I have seen some online shops for $115 for NGK 4cyl wires. what wires are good and where can I get? What is the procedure for replacing wires?

Does wires go bad after say 7years/110K miles?

Reply to
vktechmails

To answer your earlier question about the torque wrench, you probably have to find a 3/8" drive to find one with such a low setting.

DENSO is Toyota's major supplier for electrical parts, NGK is the secondary supplier. You won't go wrong with either one and if the DENSO wires are less expensive, then I'd go with those.

Some wires go bad after 7 years/110k miles, some do not.

Reply to
Ray O

I guess I will get DENSO wires from dealer. Are they made in Japan?

Also can you please tell me the procedure for changing wires? tips/cautions etc

Thanks.

Reply to
vktechmails

Basically, push/pull from the plug part, not the wire. Use the dielectric greas as mentioned before. It makes a better contact and allows for easier replacement if you ever do have to do another tune-up. Remove ONE WIRE AT A TIME! If all the wires are attached to the distributor, MARK THEM or take a picture with yur digital camera so you make sure you get the correct order.

Reply to
Hachiroku

Wires can go bad sooner than that. I don't have a Toyota, but son did - a Tercel. We have used aftermarket wires and have found that good quality ones work out fine.

BUT, wires don't tend to tolerate rough treatment. Pulling them on and off the plugs improperly can damage them.

Moisture in the distributor cap caused by condensation or water splashing after rains can reduce you to a no run situation.

Reply to
<HLS

Pleases Note: Use ONLY OEM plug wires. Do not use after market wires. Dealer prices vary.

Reply to
W.T. MC GLYNN

IIRC, distributor leads also don't like engine oil. It's worth cleaning down the various clips and insulators past which the leads go: try white spirit (or another gentle volatile solvent, so the stuff will evaporate cleanly).

Reply to
Andrew Stephenson

What's wrong with them? I just put a set on and they seem fine, never had trouble with anything aftermarket on any car though I avoid really cheap looking parts.

Reply to
jg

The after market wires don't go the distance.They have a tendency to arc after awhile.Could be the heat factor. OEM will go the distance.

Reply to
W.T. MC GLYNN

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