toyota camary 90

Where does the coil sit in a 90 Toyota Camary? I need to fix my car by myself,the mechanic already charged me$400 and I have the same problem. It keeps stalling on me and takes forever to start in the mornings.I was told it's the coil.The coil will cost me $42.95 and I'll try,but couldn't find it under the engine.Help!!!

Reply to
Lillie
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If you have the 4-cylinder engine, you will find that the coil is inside the distributor.

Reply to
Viperkiller

Under the distributor. Yes the coils go bad, but are you sure it is electrical and not fuel related. And have you changed and checked everything else. Is your distributor cap tight, If the coil is bad it usualy doesnt short till car gets fully warm then it takes 15-45 min to dry out. Coils on 90 go bad often, mine is bad to.

Reply to
m Ransley

I got my answer where the coil goes on the 90 Toyota Camary.Thanks.Now I want to know if I need to unravel the ditributer cap and would that unset the timming or undo any settings under the cap?In other words,do I just remove the cap and screw on the ignition coil? Is it simple? Please someone help me.The car just had a tuneup and also the mechanic claims he changed the gas filter.I figure the coil is probably the problem why the car takes long in getting the full power to start.and the stalling and puttering it does.

Reply to
Lillie

A friend tried to replace the coil on my 90 4 cil yesterday, he gave up because the screws are on the bottom. The manual says remove distributor, mine had oil leaking in, the O ring is bad it is a common problem. Get a manual and an O ring gasket before you pull it. Also I woyuld not realy trust aftermarket coils

Reply to
m Ransley

Simply removing the distributor cap and the dust-cover under it will not upset anything. If you are hesitant to do this job, get hold of a repair or workshop manual and follow the instructions and diagrams.There are electrical tests conducted with an ohm meter which suss out coil,...though these tests dont pick-up spark leakage to ground problems.

In other words,do I just

The car just had a tuneup and also the mechanic claims he

Unfortunately, intermittant problems can sometimes cause unnecessary expense if the symptoms are either assessed incorrectly or are indicative of a number of possible faults.

I am suspicious of mechanics who charge prices like that and still haven't fixed the car. It's an honour thing. If the car is still faulty, he should have another look with reduced costs,...

Poor starting and stalling can be caused by a lot of things and needs to be diagnosed properly Lillie. A blocked fuel filter or failing fuel-pump (you would think) would cause fuel starvation when the engine calls for large amounts of fuel (accelarating) rather than at start or idle.

Some possible causes for poor starting and stalling in no particular order:

- intermittant ignition: coil breaking down, spark-plug leads gone high resistance, cracked or tracked dissy cap

- loose or intermittant electrical connections associated with the computer or its peripherals including sensors and distributor wiring

- an airleak around the intake: anywhere from the air filter (where the air mass and air temperature sensor is) to the inlet to head, gasket.

- a stuck or dirty idle-speed-control valve (located inside the throttle-body)

-ignition timing incorrect

-intermittant or failed MAP sensor, throttle position sensor, coolant temp sensor

- worn injectors

I would be going back to the mechanic to complain about the car's continued problems. You pay good money for a competant analysis and fix,..not a hit or miss job.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

If you still need help.....

I don't know about the '90 Camry, but in the late 80's, the coil was a pretty simple swap.

Take off the dist. cap and the coil is right in front of you. The only problem might be is that the screws are smallish and they may be hard to break loose. I cursed quite a bit to get them to break loose without stripping out the head.

So, all you do is disconnect the wire, disconnect the screws holding the coil in place and put in the new coil the same way.

I might suggest replacing at the very least the distributor rotor at the same time...and if it were me I'd get a new distributor cap and ignition wires at the same time.

Reply to
timbirr

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