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ECU problems in Skoda Felicia 1.6

I have a 1996 Skoda Felicia 1.6 GLX (VW engine). Lately the engine had been stalling, after which it would be difficult to restart. Sometimes the car would stutter while driving. Another worrying sign was that the ventilator fan seemed to be overworking. These symptoms would come and go. As the weather cooled, things seemed to get better. But then yesterday the engine suddenly stalled while driving. This was different from the symptoms I described above because it happened suddenly, without a warning stutter. I restarted the engine then later parked the car. When I tried to start it again, it seemed to be having battery problems and wouldn't start. I finally succeeded in driving it to a mechanic, who checked the battery and had it replaced. But when I left the mechanic, again it stalled, suddenly and while driving, and I had difficulty restarting it. Every time I restarted, it would stall again before I could shift to first gear. After returning the car to the mechanic he connected to the ECU. It showed there were seven errors. So he rebooted it and said I could now drive.

Are these symptoms of a problem with the ECU, or maybe one of the sensors? Is this mechanic competent?

Reply to
RCSB
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He "rebooted" it?? You mean he reset the ECU codes and charged you the hours labour without first seeing what they were?

It sounds like the engine has a problem, and has logged the faults in the ECU. This monkey has erased them and sent you on your way, with your wallet an hours labour lighter. Did he not bother to read the errors from the ECU and maybe offer an explanation to the problems you're having?

Reply to
Sandy Nuts

He didn't offer any explanations but at least he didn't charge me for it.

Are you saying this is probably a mechanical problem, and not something to do with the ECU itself or with any of the sensors?

Reply to
RCSB

something

Likely to be one of the various sensors.

Reply to
Gøñzølã

Sounds like you have wiring and or sensor problems. ECU's generally either work, or dont, or exhibit the same fault all the time. (i.e. stuck high idle)

Get it to a VW dealer or Skoda and dont mess about with an ameteur mechanic.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Depends how much you value your time - he's wasted a fair whack of it.

When the sensors start to fail, they send back duff signals to the ECU causing dodgy running, the ECU logs these out of range values and sets a diagnostic flag, usually illuminating an engine check lamp. This "mechanic" has cleared the codes without explaining what they are, which are potentially useful for diagnosing your current running issues.

Either go back and get him to give you the codes, or go to a proper mechanic and have it sorted.

Reply to
Sandy Nuts

Thanks for all the replies.

Reply to
RCSB

I'm going to go out on a limb here. I'm not familiar with the VW 1.6 engine, but the injection system used on it was similar to the 1.3 Skoda engined varient.

Skoda engines were notorious for failing voltage regulation on alternator. This may also be the case on the VW engined versions. It was the failed battery that made me think this. If the alternator is putting out under or over voltages, the sensors to the ecu may be doing the same, feeding back duff info. The ecu images it is running hotter or colder, or even not running at all, and handles the fueling/ignition accordingly.

If it starts to happen again, Halfords sell Gunson and other branded fault code readers. You should be able to get a Skoda/VW one and get the codes off and see what they mean.

If it is running over voltage from the faileed regulator on the alternator, you could end up frying sensors, another battery, and even the ECU.

Most autofactors can do battery and alternator tests free.

Reply to
NeedforSwede2

Thanks for your very helpful reply.

Reply to
RCSB

Sandy Nuts ( snipped-for-privacy@home.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Fair enough.

Over time, there could very well be a number of transient error codes flagged that have never been seen again. Clear them out, reset it all, and if they come back THEN investigate them.

Reply to
Adrian

It is partial guess work, and not to be taken as gospel.

Reply to
NeedforSwede2

Not every one has all the time and money required to constantly come back and hook up the ECU to the diag port. It's just luck that the OP wasn't charged in this instance.

Reply to
Sandy Nuts

Sandy Nuts ( snipped-for-privacy@home.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

The easiest way to clear them out is to disconnect the battery for half an hour. IF codes come back, then get them read.

Reply to
Adrian

I went back to that mechanic today. He didn't think there was a problem with the sensors. He thinks its the ignition coil and he had it replaced. He hasn't charged me yet. He wants me to drive around for a few days with the new coil to see if it makes a difference. Well, the engine hasn't stalled, but I've already experienced some stuttering. And I had difficulty starting after parking the car. I really feel this isn't it.

I also told him about NeedforSwede2's idea and he agreed to check the voltage. But he said it was OK. So at least I don't have to worry that I'm frying anything.

By the way, if you are wondering how I went to the mechanic on a Sunday

-- well, I'm actually writing from Israel and here Sunday is a regular workday.

Reply to
RCSB

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