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For sure the igniter?

Changed the timing chain on my 22r '83 pickup. Got rid of that nast tapping noise, the chain had chipped a few chunks out of the inside of the timing chain cover. I put the whole thing back together and inserted the distributor drive gear with the drill mark facing the #1 spk plug terminal. Put it all back together and started it up, but I couldn't seem to get the timing quite right so I think "well, maybe that drive gear isn't exactly where it should be". Take the valve cover off and adjust the drive gear. Put it back together, nothing at all, turns over but never starts--and it has spark. Figuring I probably made things worse and not better I take the valve cover back off (by this time I'd broken both of my ratchets--should've listened when I was told not to go to Harbor Freight--so I'm getting it back to TDC by blipping the starter motor) and sure enough I must've been sleeping when I put the drive gear in, because it's way off. I pull it out and set it right, bolt everything back together, and start it up, runs great! I'm putting the air filter back on and all of a sudden it just stops dead. I think "did the gear slip or something?" Open it up, nope, gear is in place. Unplug a spark plug, no spark, unplug the ignition coil, no spark, the ignition coil was so hot it was smoking so I figure "well, burned that one out." But a new one from AutoZone for $55, plug it in, burn myself a few times, still no spark! Take both coils back, test them at Autozone, and their both good (can't take the new one back though, electronic component--anyone need an ignition coil?) Plug it back in, replace the pickup coil, still nothing. So here's my question. Am I ABSOLUTELY SURE it's the igniter? I don't want to spend another big chunk-o-money on something I'm going to end up reselling on Ebay. When I try to start it and nothing happens, after I turn it off I can hear the Emission Control Unit click, is that normal? Should it start even if that's bad? Is there ANYTHING else it could be, or should I go junkyard hopping for another igniter? I went to a junkyard yesterday and found an igniter for an 85 EFI (mine's carbureted) and tried to splice that one it, but the EFI has three wires for the EFI unit that I didn't have any place to wire up, is it possible to wire this one in, or do I need the exact

83 flavor? If I can't find one in a junkyard, it looks like it'd be cheaper for me to just buy an aftermarket ignition system like MSD on Ebay, anyone know the pros/cons and which brand/model of aftermarket is the best? Oh, and anyone need an extra 85 igniter? The junkyard guy must not have known what he was talking about, because he gave it to me for free.

Spencer reply here or email me at f-o-w-i-e-at-h-o-t-m-a-i-l-dot-c-o-m

Reply to
Spencer Fowers
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you try the igniter test I sent you?

Reply to
TacomaDude

Yeah, tried the igniter test, the positive power lead had 12V, but the negative lead didn't, it was at 0.05v, so connecting the 1.5v battery didn't do anything to it at all. I found an 85 igniter in a junkyard, got it for free, tried splicing the wires that actually fit, and it gave off 12v on negative and positive like it was supposed to, but the

1.5v batter test didn't lower the voltage at all. Looks like I'm gonna have to hit up AutoZone for a new igniter. Are there any other fuses for the engine in this truck that could affect it besides the 15A in the fusebox?
Reply to
Spencer Fowers

could it be possible that the chain slipped a link, forward or back, vis a vis their locations before you pulled everything apart? The point is, #1 piston is at tdc, cam needs to be at that corresponding position. If the camshaft chain slipped even one link, you're gonna have to pull it all apart and line it back up to get the timing right. If you didn't replace the cam shaft sprocket and very most importantly the chain tensioner, then you probably did slip a link. I've never seen any info on how often crankshaft cams should be replaced, but everything I've ever seen said camshaft sprockets and tensioners should be changed out with the chain. Laugh or ridicule if you need to, but the same is bikes and bicycles. Your camshaft has what, 28, 30 teeth? At most! the chain is gonna wear on that hard, round off the teeth. You throw a new chain on there, that's never been subjected to any stretch, and the gaps between the rollers will be shorter than the gaps between the teeth of the sprocket.

look here for the problem, take your new chain and lay it on the camshaft sprocket. if it doesn't fit tight with no overlap, then replace the cam sprocket. no matter what, replace the chain tensioner. Its just a piece of metal to bolt on with a spring and a rubber chain guide. The last time I bought one was around '91 to '92. It was under $50

enuff said. if you have more questions I'll try to help

Reply to
?reality

"?reality"

Reply to
Celica Dude

Sure enough it was the igniter. After a few tests and it having failed, I forked out the $250 autozone wanted for a new one, plugged it in, and I've got spark again. Timing sounds ok (can't find a soul around here with a timing light that isn't broken, so I can't fine tune it, but it sounds decent w/no pinging). Now the problem's somewhere else. I get the thing started and it runs, after it warms up it dies on idle. If I keep the engine revved up it'll keep going though, so I don't think it's the fuel pump? Also, I turn it off and can't get it to start again, sounds like it can barely turn the engine; once it starts it seems to run fine though. Starter problem? I'm thinking maybe I mis-connected a couple vacuum lines on the carburetor or something like that and the starter's going out, any confirmation of this? Thanks,

Spencer

Reply to
Spencer Fowers

Reply to
Southern Man

Reply to
?reality

"?reality"

Reply to
Celica Dude

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