question about installing spark plugs

How much torque should be applied when installing new spark plugs in a

2001 Sequoia?

TIA

Reply to
Bert
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General rule for spark plugs - after they seat, 1/2 turn for plugs w/new washers, 1/8 turn for plugs w/o washers or reinstalling plugs.

Reply to
slikrikd

Great advice. The 22re I just rebuilt, had the original plugs in it for 169k miles. All the cylinders needed to be helicoiled.

Reply to
chuck

the problem with aluminium heads and spark plugs is largely know-how !!! never try to remove plugs when the head is hot or even warm..

the warm alum> > and don't forget to put a dab of "never-seize" on the threads so you can get

Reply to
Guylaine J. Parisien

Agreed

Wrong. Sometimes it actually helps to warm the engine up when you are trying to remove a stubborn plug.

Wrong again. I have taken plugs out of cars, lawnmowers, ATV's and dirt bikes ALL with aluminum heads and NEVER had a problem hot or cold. One problem, which has been mentioned in this newsgroup before, is that most of your better plugs ( NGK and Nipondenso) have a coating on the spark plug threads that resists corrosion so that they don't seize in the engine. I have always used these plugs in any vehicle that came with them from the factory. I have never had a problem taking them out either.

The other problem I have seen is that people are afraid to strip an aluminum head so they don't tighten the spark plugs enough. If you don't tighten the plug enough to crush the gasket you get a small amount of seepage from the cylinder which corodes the spark plug threads. In almost every case of a spark removing the threads on the way out a close inspection of the gasket has revealed that the plug was never tightened properly because the gasket was not even crushed at all.

Your mileage may vary. This is what I have learned over the years. I have replaced thousands of spark plugs. I have also repaired dozens of cylinder heads with damaged threads.

Generally good advice but some claim that never-seize can cause miss-fires. I don't use it often but I have used it in the past without problems.

Leaving the plugs in an engine for too long will also result in seized threads.

Good advice. That works wether the head is cast iron or aluminum.

Don't know what the torque spec would be on a spark plug as I have never used a torque wrench on one. It is definately and aquired feel and if you are not sure you can do it right you should let someone who is experianced do the job.

Reply to
Mike

Just replaced the spark plugs in my V6 Tacoma. One of the plugs wouldn't completely torque. It only went to about 80% of the required torque. Talk about a pit in your stomach. You can 't chase the thread or install a helicoil because of debries, right? The head must be removed?

Reply to
JC

Did the plug go all the way into the head ? Did you pull it back out to see if the gasket was crushed ? Is it possible that the gasket was cocked on the threads and what you thought was the plug bottoming out was just the gasket stuck on the threads ?

I doubt you did any damage to the threads as they are not very easy to strip. I would remove the plug and inspect it to see if it was fully seated

You can 't chase the thread or install a

.

Are you talking about debris getting in the cylinder if you have to chase the threads? If so, you do not have to remove the head. Yes, you can chase the threads to remove any debris that may have got lodged in the threads or install a helicoil without removing the head. If just chasing the threads you really wouldn't be removing any material that would end up in the cylinder. If installing a helicoil you would have metal chips falling in the cylinder. You would have two choices, 1) use the tap dry and when finished start the engine up with the spark plug removed and the chips will get blown out through the spark pluge hole. 2) Use a heavy grease on the tap ( to collect the chips) and clean it often. I would still run it with the spark plug removed to blow out any chips that fall in the cylinder.

Reply to
Mike

Snap on has some spark plug hole taps that the threads retract on, then once the tap is in the hole the bottom of it is extended to provide a lip to catch the debris.i dont have a catalog here to give you a part number, but should be easy enough to find on snapon.com

Reply to
remove

Motor oil works just as good as anti-seized compound. Zero worry about the compound drifting into the head. I just use the oil level stick to transfer a few drops onto the plug. So convenience.

Reply to
DaViT

My thoughts are not to use anything but "antiseize" or nothing at all. Oil will turn to ash and may lock the spark plug in the head making it hard to remove. I install them dry and confirm the gasket is crushed. Never have problem getting them out. kend

Reply to
kend

And maybe use a shop vac w/a small nozzle attachment to vac it out before you blow it out. Just a thought.

Reply to
slikrikd

I agree. I never found a need to lube any spark plug, I always install them dry. If a plug is hard to remove or install I will chase the threads with a tap to clean out the threads. I will then install the plugs dry. I have never had a problem either.

Reply to
Mike

Good idea but I have found you can't really get anything into that small hole. The best method I have seen is to start the engine with just that one plug missing. As soon as the engine starts you can see all the chips fly out. DO NOT stand directly in front of the spark plug hole when trying this as the chips come out at high speed.

Reply to
Mike

You don't need to get it in the hole. If you stick it over the hole and seal it up some w/your hand, it'll have enough vacuum to pull out the debris. I've pulled bigger things out of deeper holes before (insert joke here).

Reply to
slikrikd

Ok. I've never tried that before but I can see how it would work. I'll have to keep that in mind, might save alot of disassembly time someday. I'll pass on the joke, but it's tempting -;)

Reply to
Mike

Milk of Magnesia is actually a decent anti-seize, but guys... we're talking about something less than the price of a beer protecting a $3,000 engine here....

Freaking do it right!

--- Rich

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Reply to
Rich Lockyer

My buddy who build race-car taught me his trick. I used it last 15 yrs for ..ohh, countless many times. No problem ever. Yes it leaves a black layer, but broke-off easy. The oil layer prevent galvanic corrosion between Alum and Steel plug.

Reply to
DaViT

I had an uncle who lost his life trying to milk one of those things.

Reply to
Rad

I grabbed two books from the shelf, Datsun: 11-14lb Jag : 18lb Both use aluminum heads and the earlier japanese alloys were poor. Might be the reason for the lower torque. Have you checked your owners manual? A well stocked library probably has a repair manual for your application. kend

Reply to
kend

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