Stripped lug stud

Anybody that has the machine that can push the old stud out and push the new one in will have the skills needed to get the wheel assembly (sic) off.

Remove the wheel and brake drum. Pound out the stripped stud with a hammer. Pull the new stud into place by using a regular nut ( not the lug nut ) and suitable spacer.

You don't use a press (generally) and you only need to remove the wheel (tire and rim) and brake drum. Punch the old one out with a hammer and drift. pull the new one in with a wheel nut on backwards and a few greased washers.

** Posted from **

Can the stud be pulled out from the back without removing the hub? I thought I would have to remove the hub in order to replace the stud.

There is no hub, the stud goes into the axle flange. Ihe only things you need to remove are the wheel and brake drum.

Of course, he won't be able to use the press if he uses this method.

Changing the broken stud is easiest with a impact gun.

Check the free repair guide on Autozone on wheel lug stud replacement.

Autozone may have the stud replacement tools, but didn't see it. Maybe Schucks/Kargen/Checkers/Murray/Advnace will have them for rental.

That's how I did it on my Jeep when the job had to be done ...

But the OP said he intended to press it out and asked how. All I said was that anybody with the machine to do it that way would know how. If you would do it a dfiferent way, tell him not me.

Wrong, clare!! If you can get the right tool to press the old broken/stripped stud out with the axle/hub on the car, that is MUCH better than beating it out with a hammer and a punch.

if you can borrow or rent this, or a similar tool from Snap-On,MAC, etc.

If you have to remove the old stud with a hammer, you need to use a sufficiently big hammer to make it happen in as few blows as possible

- 4-pound hand sledge or better. And you need to have someone hold an even bigger hammer (8-pound sledge) behind the flange to absorb the blow, and not transmit the force into the wheel bearings.

Just "Beating on it with a hammer" to get the stud out is bad, that can cause Brinnelling damage (tiny dents in the hardened steel) to the wheel bearings and their races, and in a few weeks your wheel bearings start to rumble as they go bad and eventually self-destruct.

And you pull in the new studs with the same press tool, or a stack of greased washers and a new greased lug nut. (Do not use an old lug nut, if the old nut's threads are hosed you aren't doing the new stud any favors.) Clean off the grease with brake cleaner before installing the wheel.

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While that may sound good in theory it doesn't happen in the real world. I have replaced dozens of wheel studs that way and have never experienced a damaged wheel bearing. Wheel bearings take more of a blow by hitting a large pothole.

I've been doing it for over 40 years and never had a problem. Seldom takes more than 2 smacks with the hammer and they are out. WAY less inpact than hitting a pothole at 60.

** Posted from **

Thanks to all for the suggestions. It was way easier than I thought it would be. Altogehter I think I spent about 40mins doing the whole job.

I remembered a trick on removing the drum. There are two threaded holes in the brake drum. I simply screwed in a 10mm bolt in each one and used them to pull the drum out. Of course, I had to choke the tires before releasing the parking brake. After that, the drum came out in a breeze. I had an extra thick washer and an open ended nut to pull the stud snug. I dont think the acorn style nuts are deep enough unless you have more washers, plus you might ruin the taper.

One thing I did notice, my rear pads are still orginal (185k miles). Everytime I check them, there does not seem to be any wear. The brake surface of the drum was smooth, a bit glazed, but looked normal. Is this normal?

My instinct is that your rear brakes need to be adjusted. If the parking brake handle pulls a long way, this confirms my suspicion. Properly adjusted rear brakes (drum type) will have the handle pull something like 4 or 5 clicks to set the parking brake. If you are pulling the handle more than that, you need to adjust them.

The proportioning valve may not be working right or not at all. Has the brake fluid ever been replaced? You might not be getting the right amount of pressure to the rear wheel cylinders.

depends on how much you carry in the bed and how hard you stop. If you don't carry much and don't stop hard the rear pads will last a very long time. how long do your pads last on the front?

I get about 60k to 90k, it's a manual trans so I engine brake a lot. I remember changing my fronts at least twice, since I bought my 4Runner. I replaced my stock 7" clutch with a TRD 8" clutch kit at 120k.