I was driving up a very steep incline yesterday (about 10% grade). I
was getting very little power in third gear so had to keep downshifting
to second gear. All of a sudden, my bus lost all power to the engine
and then would not restart. It cranks and the lights work. It does
not sound like it is getting any fuel, and will not start.
Any ideas what happened all of a sudden? My thinking is that the Fuel
was dirty and clogged something.
How can I troubleshoot this. I just spent an outragious amount on a
new Muffler system and can't afford to take it back to the shop.
I agree, sounds like fuel (lack of).
Take the top of the carb off (5 screws).
Careful not to lose any of the tiny parts.
The fuel level should be roughly 3/4" below the rim.
You can pour fresh gas in to that level if empty.
That will make re-starting much easier.
Assuming that the bowl *was* empty, where to look next?
You could pull the hose from the tank off the pump inlet.
Fuel should flow by gravity as long as the tank isn't
near empty. If no flow or a dribble, the tank outlet
mesh screen is probably clogged.
If there *is* good steady flow, the pump is suspect.
The pump...OR...the pump pushrod. Once in a while,
the rod will seize in the bakelite block, especially
Much less likely, is vacuum buildup in the tank due
to faulty tank venting. That would have dissipated by now
and wouldn't affect the flow test. If you do suspect
a venting problem, leave the filler cap loosened and
go for a test drive (if you get it to run).
That should give you enough things to try till tomorrow...
I was getting good flow from the gas line. I replaced my fuel filter
in the engine compartment and tried to start again. I noticed (while
my girlfriend turned the key) that the fule filter filled up quickly,
so I am assuming that the pump functions and filled the filter.
I checked the carb and found that the resevior was almost completey
full (Could this be the culprit ?). I checked for spark and after
banging on the regulator, it sparked from the coil. I replaced the
regulator cause I had a new one handy. I charged the battery for about
an hour and tried again.
Still the engine turns and sounds like it trying to start, but no luck
it just turns.
Any other ideas?
Speedy Jim wrote:
An engine needs several things to run. Metered fuel, compression, and
a timed spark. You have confirmed you still have fuel.
Compression....does the bus turn freely by hand or can you feel the
resistance build and release during the process of roatation? If you
had no other odd signs.....big oil cloud etc indicating catastrophic
;loss of compression just before failure....severe over
heating...etc....well...I'm going to move on to a timed sparkl. Check
your points. ;^)
I agree, if you have fuel, check your points. I've broken every set of
the points which have a fiberglass tab that rides on the distributer
shaft... the plastic ones dont break. Every break down I've had like
(many) that has been points related or a clogged fuel filter.
Check the points gap too. .016"
No cloud of smoke. No indication at all, no dash lights lit up, the
bus just died going up a steep hill. I turned the engine over by hand
and I feel compression on all 4 cyls. My points look okay, no sign of
burnng out or anything?? When I turn the key both my oil and gen
lights light then go out when I crank the engine.
Also, when i pull the throttle linkage, I hear a spray sound.
Is it possible that the car went that far out of timing that fast?
Gary Tateosian wrote:
Is your distributor too tight to turn? If its clampend and you can't
turn it...its not likely to have jumped time. Check the black wire on
teh coil for power. If you don't have a meter or test light simplly
unplug it with the key on and re-attatch. It should give a little spark
indicating juice is present. It should be hooked to the positive
terminal on teh coil. Check that the green wire that leads to the
condensor is securely attached to the opposite negative side. WIth key
on and points closed...open them with a screwdriver....spark???
Quote: " When I turn the key both my oil and gen
lights light then go out when I crank the engine."
This is the big clue.
OIL/GEN *must* stay ON during cranking!
The Coil gets power from same place as OIL/GEN lights,
so the Coil is going stone dead during cranking.
Most likely the Ign sw has failed.
This may not quite explain what happened on the road,
but it needs to be fixed.
Try this experiment:
Run a jumper wire from battery + post direct to
the Coil + terminal (where the Blk wire(s) is).
Now crank it over.
If still no joy, read the article on my web site:
"Why won't my engine start?"
Skip down to the section about "No Spark".
Also, unplug and check all wires connecting to the coil. Make sure
they are clean and not loose. If any of them are loose, slide them
onto the post and then squeeze them down with pliers. Once had a loose
connector do exactly what you described. Went through a puddle and the
bus died. Couldnt get it to start, waited a few hours thinking it was
"wet" and still no joy. Turned out once of the connectors was just
loose and dirty, making a poor connection. Discovered this after
buying a new coil, points, and dist cap. Should have spent more time
troubleshooting before going to the parts shop.
Okay... I checked all the connections squeezed on tight with pliers.
Checked the spark from the coil.. No spark ( a neighbor was helping
last night and said he saw a spark?). Checked the voltage to the black
wire on the coil 10.6 Volts. Tried to connect from the positive
battery to the Black wire on the coil, no start. Oil/Gen lights do
light up and the gen light stays on when cranking.
Read the article on no spark. Distributer looks fine. Since no spark
is coming out of the Hi Voltage wire on the coil, I did not complete
the tests to the ditributor.
Would I be correct to assume that there is something wrong with the
Speedy Jim wrote:
Gald you told me to do that... I did all the tests and found that it
is the points and condensor. Difference between 60 bucks and 13 bucks
for the parts. You just saved me again. Now to find the parts LOL.
Speedy Jim wrote:
Okay guys... It turned out to be the points. The little bakelite
thing that is pushed by the rotor spinning broke. They were stuck
open. I had an old point to install, checked the gap, retimed and I am
back on the road. I guess the points dod not like going to the
gathering r being pushed up a 12% incline in second gear...
Thank you to all for all the help. jim, your site is awesome.
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