I have a 1974 SB with what I call a fuel delivery problem. I want to go ahead and replace the manual fuel pump with an electric, however, I don't know what the GPH rating is.
I have looked at the current manual pump, and it has no information on it.
What is the "stock" GPH rating that would apply? I have a choice of 25, 30,
35 & 45 GPH, or am I barking up the wrong tree, and it could be a carb problem?Thanks.
Steve
If you have a clogged main fuel line, neither pump will work. There is absolutely no reason that the stock pump can't be made to work (or replaced with like, if bad).
If the car gets 30 MPG and is going at 60 MPH, that is consumption of only 2 GPH.
You can test the fuel line by disconnecting it from the pump and routing it into a suitable gas can. Jack the frt of the car up. Fuel should flow freely (steady stream) into the can. If you get a dribble, the line is clogged. If you get good stream, allow it to run for several minutes. This will check for proper tank venting.
If *your* stream is a dribble, you probably have BPH.
Speedy Jim
Jim:
Thanks for "speedy" reply!
Sorry I couldn't resist!
Here is the issue at hand. I will be driving the car for a period of time, all of a sudden it spits an sputters and dies. If I try to restart it, (after many pumps of the pedal) it will turn over, then die again. (some sort of fuel delivery problem, I think). Almost like the fuel is being chocked off. I have already replaced the manual fuel pump, made sure the fuel lines are NOT close to the engine, replaced the fuel filter, and even tried running with the fuel cap off. (Thinking it might be a venting issue). Could there be an issue of the engine causing the rod from the fuel pump to cease (stopping fuel flow)? Plus the coil gets quite hot.
If the car sits, and "cools" off, I can start it right up again.
BTW the gas flows from the fuel line fine.
What about vapor lock. If the engine is "operating-properly" I will see the fuel in the filter bubble (almost looks like it's boiling) (air)?
Sorry I'm being kind of random, but I can't trust the car at all.
Any other info/comments would appreciated.
Thanks.
Yes, it's possible for the rod to stop pumping. The rod is a tight fit in the bakelite "spacer" block. Once in a while, the bakelite swells with age and the rod gets real tight, Then, when the engine heats up, the rod sticks.....no pump.
Vapor lock is a rarity in my experience, but possible.
Oil should be hot. At freeway speed on a summer day it can get to 235F (not an absolute).
Check that all the engine tin is in place and the foam seal doing its job. Check that the thermostat opens and the flaps open fully.
You've checked the fuel flow; concentrate on the pump/rod.
Jim
" > Yes, it's possible for the rod to stop pumping.
Also take Jim's earlier advise (i *think*) and check the carb bowl when you have these problems...that will also help to confirm or eliminate the sticking pump rod...the hot coil should be considered suspect IMHO....
I had the exact same problem with the exact same car. It would just cut off at random and after a while it would go again. Turns out it was a sticker from a fuel additive bottle floating around in my gas tank. I went through all sorts of stuff trying to figure out the problem. Apparently the sticker would clog the hole, and after a while the suction would be released and the sticker would float off waiting to reek havoc at a later point. I have no idea how it got there (I didn't use additives), but finally I took out the gas tank and cleaned it out after eliminating EVERY other possibility. You might want to take a peek.
Can you go into a little more detail about the "hot coil"?
sometimes when coils are going bad, they tend to overheat....you will experience ignition loss when they are hot....just a possibility, but i would eliminate fuel issues first.... if the coil is so hot it could burn you, it is not a "healthy" coil....
You might also be certain that you replaced your condensor recently. Driving for a while and then having the vehicle sputter and die until it "cools down" matches the symptoms of the condensor too... although electrical components increase resistance with heat... so if the coil is going bad... then as it heats up...... be sure the points are not burned.
My 74 had a problem which sounds the same. I mounted an electric pump under the gas tank and the problem went away. I used a pump from auto zone for about 33 bucks. It is listed in their computers for vw and puts out about 3-4 lbs pressure. Also get a pressure regulator from them.
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Simular to the old ping pong ball in the gas tank.
Jim Nelson
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