6V distributor

First tighten the distributor clamp nut, behind the distributor, near the intake manifold. It should be a 13mm nut. (wrench size that is). That's the main Ground for the distributor.

If the distributor clamp is loose around the distributor itself, you need to tighten that too to provide good ground. To adjust timing, you need to loosen it temporarily. Sometimes they get bent and worn, and no longer clamp tightly, even when you feel the nut is tight. You can modify the clamp to gain more 'tightening', I'm sure you can figure out which part to file material off of.

You can use a 12V strobe timing light if you power it from an extra 12V car battery.

Hi Jan,

thanks for the reply. I will check the clamp for bad ground first thing tomorrow. The distributor itself is not loose.. (the clamb nut behind the distributor) I remembered trying to eyeball the timing a while back, the shock was not so faint... dang!

"bug '59" schreef in bericht news:4817884b$0$6005$ snipped-for-privacy@news.kpnplanet.nl...

Today i went to check on the distributor. All tight. The engine is sweating a lot, so that might enhance the ground? I also noticed that the wire from the condenser goes straight to the negative side of the Coil. On my 1300 engine from the '73 the wire goes from the condensor to the back of the distributor to the (positive side?) coil. Does it mean that the condensor of the '59 is faultly connected? Or did they change during the years?

TIA Roger

No change. The wire from the distributor always goes to the negative side of the coil, no exception.

You can connect the coil the wrong way, positive to negative and distributor to positive, and the engine should still run.. but not as good as it should. I haven't tried this, I'm relying on something I read years ago.

Ok, so it is connected propely to the coil then. But what is the difference between the other condensor on my '73 with the wire going first into the back of the distributor before going to the coil and the one on my '59 which goes directly to the coil?

I don't have a timing light yet (guess i have to buy new next week since used aren't around lately) But when i have one, how can i cure the distributor from shocking me silly? I'm told that the distributor is not suposed to get hot, merely hand warm. Mine is almost burning hot after a half an hour drive and when flooring the gas there is a severe shiver/hessitation. This could mean bad timing, right?

Thanks again, Roger

If your distributor gets excessively hot it could be the oil opening down on the shaft does not line up with the oil slot inside the block. Is it the original distributor? If not does it come from a T1 engine?

First I would check that the plugwire for cylinder #1 is in the right location, remove the cap and look for a line/notch on the rim where the distributor cap rests. This line indicates where the plugwire for cylinder #1 goes. If it is not in this position, rearrange the wires and turn the distributor so that the rotor points to the line on the rim of the ditributor body with cylinder #1 at t.d.c. with both valves closed.

This should give you a timing result close enough to start the engine and use a strobe. If you want to come even closer initially, you line up the 7,5 degree advance mark on the pulley with the parting line of the engine block/case, instead of the t.d.c. mark.

Regarding getting an electrical shock touching the distributor with the engine running, I am more uncertain.

The wiring of the condenser goes: Moving part of the points to condenser to negative terminal of the coil. Some distributors have the condenser mounted inside, some outside, I cannot remember which is applicable to the -59 6V distributor.

Make sure the insulation of the condenser wire is not worn and touching the distributor body intermittently.

J.

Thanks Jorn,

I know the distributor is mounted correctly, only this year the engine starts to do so.. I do remember changing the timing, not sure if it was on my '59 or the '73.. Bought myself a timing light so the job can begin, AFTER i check the valves amd after the rain stops...:o(

Thanks for the heads up, Roger

Is that even possible? Mine has an eccentric locator. It cannot be put in wrong. The holes alway lines up. But if it's made in some unscheduled country, I guess anything is possible.

Aside: Yesterday I got some tractor parts from the farm supply place. Hub and gear. Supposed to be a press fit. It is not, which makes the drive and tracted parts idler gears. Made in China. Seems they "intuit" the parts rather than engineer them. That's the second major, major fuckup of Chinese shit I've had in three purchases this month. Can't even find USA made parts around here. Is this what they call a world economy? The least common denominator: crap?

I am not refering to the drive tang, but an oil hole on the dizzy lining up with a slot in the blockhalf. Thi is how the shaft is lubricated.

J.

I think the earlier type shaft had the eccentric cutout in it, and the later type could be installed in any position you wanted. I know there are two designs, both factory items. I have a hunch they changed it sometime close to the end of the 60's or early 70's

Jan