Do a thad of Google, and you will find the answer is no!
Neither are the American made Webers according to those in the know.
If you pop over to www.shoptalkforums.com and look under the Type4rum(I
think..) you will find a thread about them approx a week or two ago. Use
the search facility.
The carbs CAN be made to work, if you have a full day, a rolling dyno,
all the hardware needed and the experience. Take your pick, that or
genuine Dell/Weber carbs.
If you are on a budget, get a used set of 40mm Kadrons, the "Kadron
Kit". They can be found for near 100 dollars, complete with intake
manifolds, linkage, aircleaners etc..
Forget all centermounted carbs unless you have a good quality HEATED
intake manifold. Even then they are a compromise at best.
don't mean to hijack the topic, but I keep hearing this same statement
about centermounted carbs. What's the deal with that? I am planing
on putting on a center mounted IDF 44 with preheat pipes manifold, and
after hearing this not for the first time makes me wonder. All I can
gather is that it's hard to jet tune and it will ice up even with
preheat. Icing I am not too worried about, since I won't be driving in
subzero temps, maybe some brisk mornings, but nowhere near zero
temps. Should I just scrap the idea and go back to hunting down
another 44? This is going on 1600cc engine btw, which might be a tad
big, but eventually will get reused on 2056 T4.
carb and manifold icing do not require ambient temperatures below
freezing. It can happen even in the summer, if weather conditions and
engine configuration happen to promote it. Humid air and high mixture
velocity is all you need to make ice.
Even more than icing you will have trouble with poor mixture, with the
loooooong intake tubes. Fuel just falls out of air suspension and forms
droplets on the walls of the intake manifold, entering the combustion
chamber in droplets rather than atomized.
Liquid gasoline does not burn.
You overcompensate by jetting the damn thing rich, so that at least SOME
of the fuel stays atomized/misted, to get a good burn at SOME rpms. At
all other rpms the engine will run rich.
In addition, you will be pumping raw fuel through the engine, and it
will wash off the oil film from the cylinder walls, causing accelerated
If you have plans to build a larger engine later, (soon), you can use
the single 44 for now. You need to spend a lot of time jetting and
choking it down to make it work. Put in the smallest venturies you can
find for them. Get the heated manifold.
On the 2056 T4 however, you would be happier with a pair of 40's rather
than 44's, plus they would be cheaper too. That's what I went with on my
2 liter T4. I had a street cam and a header exhaust on it and minor
headwork on the larger valved 1.8 heads.
To piggy back on Jans response..
I had a stock solex 34 on my 72... pre-heat tubes were connected (dont know
how clogged they were ) and I saw my carb icing in florida! But I cleared
the intake assembly especially the pre-heat tubes and it didnt ice any more,
however the carb still felt cold while the engine was running and it sweat
real bad. So I could imagine what a center mount would do with out heat
tubes. Duals are a pain, sometimes, when it comes to keeping them sync'ed
or just jetting them properly. So pick your poison, and remember there are
always pro's and con's to every modification you make to your engine,
wheather it be cost, fuel milage, longevity, ease of maintenance - etc...
1966 Type I
"Old VW"s don't leak oil, they mark their territory."
hm, I remember replying earlier today to this topic, but somehow it
was lost. I didn't realize that carb ice would be so bad with center
mount since manifold length is almost the same as the stock dp, but I
guess it would be worse since I thought that if a pair of 40s is
good for up to 2000cc single 44 would be somewhere between stock carb
and dual 40s. btw the manifold that i have for the 44 is cast alum
kind not the tall ones. kind of like this cb
just a little taller.
> hm, I remember replying earlier today to this topic, but somehow it
i had the same intake(from CB, with heat risers) with a dellorto 45.... carb
icing was a huge problem....in fall, winter, and part of the spring each
year i had to hook up a "hot box" i made that scavenged hot air from under
the engine to preheat the air, as well as having the heat risers in
place.....large single centermount carbs are not really happy on a vw
Not sure-all-why it is, but yep, BTDT. :/
A guy can make it work "good enough" with enough fiddling around and
at the same time learning to live with its odd cranky response, and
the mileage etc is still bad.
Too bad it don't work so good huh? :)
One of the best carb rigs I ever had was a pair of "freds" on a '73
Squareback. No chokes and sure as heck didn't need 'em neither. :)
Started, ran and idled great. :)
Man, it's been so long since I messed with any of this stuff I don't
even know if they still sell those carbs and the kit to make them
Alvin in AZ
My 1303S had a 1641 on (I assume) a stock 1300 bottom end. Heads had
been replaced too, but I haven't checked to see what they are. That
had a dual-progressive Weber, which I had no end of trouble with. I
swapped it for a Solex 34PICT/3 and it ran perfectly. The only
difference compared to the Weber was the slower acceleration speeds
over about 70MPH, but since that's the speed limit here I am not too
1966 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
1975 Volkswagen 1303S
1962 Austin Mini Seven
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