carb choice

Do a thad of Google, and you will find the answer is no! Neither are the American made Webers according to those in the know. If you pop over to

and look under the Type4rum(I think..) you will find a thread about them approx a week or two ago. Use the search facility. The carbs CAN be made to work, if you have a full day, a rolling dyno, all the hardware needed and the experience. Take your pick, that or genuine Dell/Weber carbs.

J.

badnews kirjoitti:

If you are on a budget, get a used set of 40mm Kadrons, the "Kadron Kit". They can be found for near 100 dollars, complete with intake manifolds, linkage, aircleaners etc..

Forget all centermounted carbs unless you have a good quality HEATED intake manifold. Even then they are a compromise at best.

Jan

Hi Jan,

don't mean to hijack the topic, but I keep hearing this same statement about centermounted carbs. What's the deal with that? I am planing on putting on a center mounted IDF 44 with preheat pipes manifold, and after hearing this not for the first time makes me wonder. All I can gather is that it's hard to jet tune and it will ice up even with preheat. Icing I am not too worried about, since I won't be driving in subzero temps, maybe some brisk mornings, but nowhere near zero temps. Should I just scrap the idea and go back to hunting down another 44? This is going on 1600cc engine btw, which might be a tad big, but eventually will get reused on 2056 T4.

Thanks, Anton

carb and manifold icing do not require ambient temperatures below freezing. It can happen even in the summer, if weather conditions and engine configuration happen to promote it. Humid air and high mixture velocity is all you need to make ice.

Even more than icing you will have trouble with poor mixture, with the loooooong intake tubes. Fuel just falls out of air suspension and forms droplets on the walls of the intake manifold, entering the combustion chamber in droplets rather than atomized.

Liquid gasoline does not burn.

You overcompensate by jetting the damn thing rich, so that at least SOME of the fuel stays atomized/misted, to get a good burn at SOME rpms. At all other rpms the engine will run rich.

In addition, you will be pumping raw fuel through the engine, and it will wash off the oil film from the cylinder walls, causing accelerated wear.

If you have plans to build a larger engine later, (soon), you can use the single 44 for now. You need to spend a lot of time jetting and choking it down to make it work. Put in the smallest venturies you can find for them. Get the heated manifold.

On the 2056 T4 however, you would be happier with a pair of 40's rather than 44's, plus they would be cheaper too. That's what I went with on my

2 liter T4. I had a street cam and a header exhaust on it and minor headwork on the larger valved 1.8 heads.

jan

The large pipes to the heads make for low manifold vacuum, poor running at anything less than WFO.

To piggy back on Jans response..

I had a stock solex 34 on my 72... pre-heat tubes were connected (dont know how clogged they were ) and I saw my carb icing in florida! But I cleared the intake assembly especially the pre-heat tubes and it didnt ice any more, however the carb still felt cold while the engine was running and it sweat real bad. So I could imagine what a center mount would do with out heat tubes. Duals are a pain, sometimes, when it comes to keeping them sync'ed or just jetting them properly. So pick your poison, and remember there are always pro's and con's to every modification you make to your engine, wheather it be cost, fuel milage, longevity, ease of maintenance - etc...

vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw dragenwagen

1966 Type I "Old VW"s don't leak oil, they mark their territory."vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw

google "Megasquirt"

hm, I remember replying earlier today to this topic, but somehow it was lost. I didn't realize that carb ice would be so bad with center mount since manifold length is almost the same as the stock dp, but I guess it would be worse since I thought that if a pair of 40s is good for up to 2000cc single 44 would be somewhere between stock carb and dual 40s. btw the manifold that i have for the 44 is cast alum kind not the tall ones. kind of like this cb

a little taller.

Joey, megasquirt, are you talking about the EFI running on gumstix?

Thanks again, Anton

Not sure-all-why it is, but yep, BTDT. :/

A guy can make it work "good enough" with enough fiddling around and at the same time learning to live with its odd cranky response, and the mileage etc is still bad.

Too bad it don't work so good huh? :)

One of the best carb rigs I ever had was a pair of "freds" on a '73 Squareback. No chokes and sure as heck didn't need 'em neither. :)

Started, ran and idled great. :)

Man, it's been so long since I messed with any of this stuff I don't even know if they still sell those carbs and the kit to make them work. :/

Alvin in AZ

OOPS... that was not the first thing that came to mind. LOL Does that mean I'm not too familiar with carbs 'n stuff or...?

Couldn't resist ;o) Roger

My 1303S had a 1641 on (I assume) a stock 1300 bottom end. Heads had been replaced too, but I haven't checked to see what they are. That had a dual-progressive Weber, which I had no end of trouble with. I swapped it for a Solex 34PICT/3 and it ran perfectly. The only difference compared to the Weber was the slower acceleration speeds over about 70MPH, but since that's the speed limit here I am not too concerned!

-- Howard Rose

1966 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe 1975 Volkswagen 1303S 1962 Austin Mini Seven

i had the same intake(from CB, with heat risers) with a dellorto 45.... carb icing was a huge problem....in fall, winter, and part of the spring each year i had to hook up a "hot box" i made that scavenged hot air from under the engine to preheat the air, as well as having the heat risers in place.....large single centermount carbs are not really happy on a vw engine...

well that's good to know, i guess it's better to learn it before going through all the trouble. oh well carbs are going back on ebay :)

Anton