Cip1 Torque Tool - Do They Break Easily?

I have that exact tool from CIP. I don't think the tool will break. I think they mean that the bolt could break if over torqued. I have only used it on the axle nuts and it worked great.

Ken

I have that exact tool from CIP. I don't think the tool will break. I think they mean that the bolt could break if over torqued. I have only used it on the axle nuts and it worked great.

Ken

Its a pretty substantial tool, I took my flywheel over 400 FT pounds with it (CM gland nut), no sweat at all. V/R Darrell

Hello! I have a tool that is similar to the Torquemeister. It is called the TORQUE TOOL FLYWHEEL & DRUM PLATE KIT from Cip1.com .

The instructions say: When tightening please use a proper torque wrench as this tool WILL over tighten bolts and breakage CAN and WILL occur**

25 ft lbs = 230 at the nut/bolt. 30ft lbs= 270 at the nut /bolt.

Do you think this tool would break if I used it to remove the gland nut on my 1973 Type I engine? I was thinking of not going over 30 ft. lbs. which equals 270 ft. lbs. on the gland nut.

If that does not remove it at that torque, I plan to try it with the 4 foot piece of angle iron and a ¾ IN drive 36MM socket and a cheater bar. Any help is appreciated! TIA

There was a great discussion on the Samba recently, in a nutshell, the tool is perfect for removing stubborn gland and axle nuts and will work for installing them as well but extreme caution should be used as the torque applied at the wrench it multiplied X9.

here's the link to the discussion

Tracy

Use the tool! I used to use a =BE IN socket+bar+cheater+helper bar to remove my axle nuts, but after using the tool I'm not doing that any more. The hardest part of using a socket/bar is how to hold the drum or flywheel in place while you "jump" on the cheater bar to create 250+ ft lbs. The tool does away with all of that ! One part connects to the drum/ flywheel, the other to the nut. No extra bars needed.

The only problem is when you have stripped the axle to drum mating grooves (can't recall the proper term). This causes the drum to spin independent of the axle. The tool won't help you here.

Well, I used it to remove the gland nut.

I had to apply at least 40ft. lbs. on the torque wrench to loosen the big gland nut.

40ft. lbs. X 9 =3D 360 ft. lbs.

I did not use one of those little flywheel lock tools. Instead I bolted one of those helping hand type buddy bars to the flywheel. I let it butt up against the right heater box as I used the Torque Tool. It did not bend the heater box.

Later that night, I tried cleaning the same gland nut. The little bearing inside was falling apart. So, I ordered a 36MM chromoly gland nut and washer that can be torqued to 360 ft. lbs. without breaking.

Somewhere they recommended not to use one of these because it might break the case.

Correction. that should read 350 ft. lbs. Here's the part description: $39.95 Stock 36mm Head so you can use the Torque Tools you already own!;

4340 Chromoly billet steel gland nut (heat treated). Torque to 350lbs/ ft without breakage or stretching! 3X as strong as stock

I thought this would be a good idea in case I over torqued the gland nut.

I torqued the gland nut to about 340 ft. lbs. with the Torque Tool. I got everything back together. This Beetle is running like new.