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Engine cleaning help needed for VWMoron:)

What is the best way to clean the crankcase of my beetle engine? I've removed the cylinder heads (after about a month of trying:) and the pistons so there are 4 gapping holes to contend with. IS there a way to cover them up or a cleaner that won't harm the engine should a little get inside? And while I've got your attention, does someone have any good diagrams of the clutch plate, flywheel, etc and assembly? I have been unable to get the engine off the transmission even though all wires and hoses and whatnot have been removed. I think something is siezed or stuck and want to know what I need to spray/poke/prod/beat with a wrench to free it up.

Thanks all:)

Reply to
Neil Winchell
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Have you removed all four bolts?

Reply to
one_of_many

Crack the beast open and give the bare case halves a good scrub. Diesel works okay to loosen teh gooey, icky stuff. That and a brush. Finish off with soapy water, or maybe pressure washer. Just as it has dried, coat bolt threads and all steel parts with oil, very lightly. (not so you get oil drips running down a stud and contaminating aluminum sealing surface..... )

Guess: Maybe the tranny input shaft rusted to the clutch hub? How to break it loose, I don't know.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Reply to
Exille

Is it easy to break open the case? I followed a link from this newsgroup to an article on doing that that mentioned various 'plugs' and drilling and stuff that frankly I just don't want to do. I am hoping to avoid all that by not cracking the case open, but if it's easy then I'm all for opening it up then:)

Neil

Reply to
Neil Winchell

You don't need to drill, tap and plug oil galleries if you don't want to. It is done only when you want to clean the passages out thoroughly. I've built dozens of engines without doing this and they've beek ok :)

In fact, this procedure is rarely done on rebuilt engines. People just don't bother. It's a GOOD idea to do it, if you are so equipped though!!! But not an absolute must, in my opinion, when you are rebuilding a stock engine.

The risks involved when NOT doing it all, have to do with small amounts of dirt inside the oil galleries, mainly in tight corners. If after the rebuild you started using oil that had more washing qualities, the engine possibly runs hotter, etc. etc. it is possible that some of this dirt gets loose and finds it's way to the bearings.

I soak the cases in diesel, pour degreaser & solvent into the oil galleries, scrub the case down with a nylon brush and finish off by blowing water through each passage at relatively high pressure for some time. The oil cooler gets a similar treatment. Overnight dip in a bucket of diesel. (Cheap solvent that works on grease, and other oil based gunk)

Jan

Neil W> Is it easy to break open the case? I followed a link from this newsgroup to

Reply to
Jan Andersson

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