Finally got my 71 Autostick home

I went to go pick up my 71 Autostick. It had caught fire and my mechanic put a different engine in it. My house is about 30 minutes from where my mechanic lives. I went by Wal-mart first to get a fire extingusiher.

It was driving good. Getting up to 65 and 70 in second gear. Then it started lossing power so I pulled over. Smoke was coming out (later I determined it was coming from behind the engine passanger side). I cranked it back up and it seemed ok. I wanted to tow it back to my mechanic but my friend said it would be ok to drive it. So I drove it back to my mechanics in first gear 45 to 50 MPH. No problems. He looked at it a little and said it probably over heated as this engine hasn't run much and it's condition besides running wasn't known. He just took a running engine out of one car to another. Later he said it might just be some gunk in their and that it may disappear after time (The over heating). I drove it home and stopped 3 times when it seemed to be lossing power. I then drove it the rest of the way in first gear going 45 to 50 and had no problems. I think the car may be jinked and I am going to name it The Money Pit after the movie

Any ideas what could be causing this?

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87
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Immediately check the cooling system. Feel behind the fan inlet for anything blocking it.

Check that thermostat is working. Check out the entire cooling flaps system. See Jan's page here:

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If one side is overheating, the inkage to the flaps on that side may be disconected.

I certainly would not drive it till the cause is determined as you will surely damage the engine.

Speedy Jim

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"I have no use for a car which has more spark plugs than a cow has teats!" Henry Ford, when advised that Chevrolet was introducing a 6-cylinder engine.

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Thanks for the tips.

Can I check the thermostat just with the engine idling or do I need to drive it a bit? SDeems to only over heat in second gear going 60+ MPH.

I was thinking some sort of blockage as I would start hearing a noice like something was rubbbing. Sometime when my mechanic gets time I'l have him drive the car a good bit and witnise what happenes.

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87

After checking the thermostat, I'd find a new mechanic. If after all that work he couldn't take the time to do a real diagnostic on your car, then I'd rethink him touching your car. Overheating+internal combustion engine= bad bad things.

Sneaks '68 T1

Reply to
Sneaks

I trust my mechanic 100%. He doesn't usally take the car out for a test drive. But I have no doubt the work he did was right.

I cranked it up tonight. Should the Generator and Oil light come on when I turn my key? (I know they go off after the engine is started) Only my generator light came on.

Reply to
Noice87

Yes, both lights must come on.

Take the Blu/Grn wire off the Oil sender at the engine. Ground that wire with key On and see if the light comes on (it should). Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

So I ground that wire by touching it to metal? I'll see if I can find that wire. I took wires from another car but I guess they should eb the same color.

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87

I grounded the Oil Sender wire and it came on. I then plugged it back up and it came on. The only time it didn't come on was when it was disconnected and not grounded.

Is it possible for me to put the car on jack stands (All 4 wheels) and go though the motions as if I were driving. I eput it into first and then second and get the engine up to 65 70 MPH? Only think I worry about is it jumps a little when putting into gear so I don't want it falling off the jack stands. If I could do this then my mechanic could watch and listen to the engine and see/hear what is going on.

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87

OK. That proves that the light and wiring are OK. The sender itself may be failing (intermittent). I would replace it.

Do not run the car on jack stands. It will almost certainly walk right off and inflict damage.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Thanks I'll pull one from another car I have. It looks fairly straight forward to remove.

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87

Some years ago, my oil light quit coming on but when I checked it I found that the connector was just getting loose and no longer making good contact. The oily environment probably didn't help either. I replaced the connector and it has worked fine since.

Reply to
Michael Cecil

I turned the key when I got home from church and the oil light came on. I drove it in the back yard twice and then out it under the carport and let it idle for 30 minutes. No problems but when I turned it off no Oil light. I look the wire loose and touched it to so metal and still nothing. Reconnected it and still nothing.

This car has a mind of it's own.

Reply to
Noice87

I turned my connector around that the wire is attached to and the light came on. I'm going to let it run for a while and then turn it off to see if it is still working.

Reply to
Noice87

Most of the time when I run the engine from a while and turn it off the oil light will not come on when I turn the key on. But jiggling the wire it comes on. When I turn it off even if it does come back on with out jiggling the wire Only the generator wire shows when I turn it off is this normal?

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87

The GEN light will come on for a few seconds with the key off, since the generator is still producing voltage until the engine spins down.

The OIL light isn't powered by the gen, so it won't light with key off.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Thanks for the Info :-) Drove it to a local restraunt and then to church and back. No problems.

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87

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