Front shocks installation problem

Hello!

------

I was today looking to replace my shock absorbers. I have bought a set of Monroe shocks and they look just the same as the old ones in the car.

Problem. All pictures I see and look about the lower mounting show a metal bush inside the lower mounting rubber. The pin in the lower torsion arm goes inside the bush in these pictures. My new shocks have the bush already in the mounting rubber, which seems ok and good thing.

However, when I took the old shock out, the bush did not come off the pin in the torsion arm, but I managed to get the rubber off of the bush. It seems that the pin in the lower torsion arm could be thicker and there might not be any bush in my car. Is this possible?

I tried minor violence to disturb the "bush", but it won't even look like coming loose. Are there torsion arms like this that do not accept the shock with the bush on and I will have to take the metal bush part out of my new front shocks? Or are my methods of violence too small for the job (tried chisel with rubber hammer and vice grips).

Yours

Reply to
Olli Lammi
Loading thread data ...

Oh. Forgot to mention, that we are tinkering with a -73 Standard 1300cc European Beetle with swing axle.

Reply to
Olli Lammi

The old bushing is stuck on the lower bolt. You have to cut it off. VERY common problem. :)

Use an angle grinder (rälläkkä) to cut one side of the bushing open, once it loses it's tension, it usually breaks loose. Be careful not to cut the bolt.

Jan

Reply to
Bugfuel

Eggsactly!!

J.

Reply to
P.J. Berg

The illustrations (ETKA) show a lock washer on both sides of the metal bush. However I cannot see any washer there where the bush is stuck. There was one under the nut. Is the b*stard stuck because someone has left out the washer or has the washer welded itself to the bush?

An angle grinder I don't have, so neighbours will witness me Dremelling under the car. Propably swearing a bit too.

Reply to
Olli Lammi

Just for clarification...

Youve got the old shock off, but the rubber bushing and the metal sleeve that engages the bolt stayed. You yanked the rubber bushing, correct? Now the metal sleeve wont come? Get some liquid wrench (or PB Blaster, or whatever your preference) in there. The bolt has rusted in there (or maybe its the shock, either way, somethings stuck) and now you can't get the sleeve out. Mine had a slit (ie, the sleeve was a bent piece of thick sheet metal rather than a drilled tube) I could get a screwdriver in and get lots of liquid wrench in there with. Tap it a couple of times LIGHTLY with a hammer or mallet (on the sleeve if it's a hammer) to get the liquid wrench all through there. Try using a pry bar if theres any space between the spindle and the edge of the sleeve. What finally worked for me was vice grips and a lot of twisting. You probably will have problems getting the new one on. If you do, you've got a rusty bolt. Get some sandpaper (I used 80 then 220, think for yourself about what you want to use) and sand it down, then if you're crazy like me use a bit of naval jelly to make sure you've gotten all of it.

If that wasn't the problem, ignore this post.

Best of luck!

-Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Holzer

Propane torch... only way to go unless you have a gas weld rig..

J.

Reply to
P.J. Berg

That's the method I used and it worked great.

Reply to
Wes Pearson

Just the metal bush is over the bolt and won't move (seems almost like it was a rigid part of the lower torsion arm). Now I have learned from here, as I thought, that there in fact is a metal bush, but it has rusted over the bolt. Liquid wrench -type of spray was already applied.

Next for me is to take a propane torch (as PJ suggests) and heat up the bush and see if that would make it loose. If not, I'll go the Dremel way. Maybe a bit small tool for the job, but that is all I have now.

Thank's for comments. I'll report on the success later.

Reply to
Olli Lammi

...........I've had success using a large pipe wrench to break that bushing loose by turning it after it was heated with a propane torch. Once it starts turning, you can use some big pliers to start working it back and forth while pulling it off.

Reply to
Tim Rogers

I changed all the 4 shocks today. None of the 6 bushes would come loose without violence. Use of open fire was prohibited in the garage I worked, so no propane torching. I Dremelled the front ones open and took them off. Doing that I managed to make small markings on the bolt, but lenghtwise, so I don't think they will snap more easily.

The rear was a bitch. Basically the nuts would have been reusable after removing, but the bolts were damaged enough that I bought new M12 bolts and nylock nuts for the rear shocks. Took quite a lot of pounding, hammering, twisting, forcing, cursing, turning and yanking to get the bolts out.

Applied lots of grease to the bolts while installing. Maybe the bushes won't rust to bolts now, or maybe they will.

And now someone will propably reply and tell me that normal 8.8 grade stainless steel M12 bolts are not suitable for the job...? (If so, at least they are easier to replace now.)

Reply to
Olli Lammi

8.8 is weak.. the originals were MUCH tougher.. But I would dare guess that they will work ok for you.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

So what would the numbers be on the proper and lasting tougher ones?

Reply to
Olli Lammi

Higher. I forgot how they go (In Europe) but I would guess 10. something

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

If i'm not mistaken; 9.6

Roger

Reply to
bug '59

10.9 ISO = SAE grade 8 (roughly)
formatting link

-- Scott

Reply to
Scott H

Thanks, that's what I was looking for

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.