Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine, trans mounts, tons of new parts) and runs great. Handles like a go-kart. I got lucky with this one as it has what looks to be the original paint, no rust (well, except for one or 2 small places on the driver door and a couple where it got scratched) and a perfect underpan. It's a color code
21E (looking though the net) "blood orange", and was equipped with factory air conditioning. Someone removed the part under the dash and the compressor is gone. All the lines and condensor/fan are still present. Wheels and hubcaps are striaght and present.
The bad? It needs some TLC. It needs some brake work (bad master cylinder or leak somewhere - ask me how I found out driving it home), a new headliner, putting the fresh air box back (removed to put a tach and oil temp/pressure gauges + new fuel sender). It needs the right front fender either replaced or fixed - the headlight bucket is pushed back. The rear defrost is broken (clips are snapped off). I have what appears to be a bad fuel line (gas smell in trunk, looks like vent hose may be bad). Plus the headlights and running lights work off a toggle switch. Not cool.
Is the welting(? - the parts between the fenders) supposed to be black or body color? I know the rear engine cover was replaced as it's white underneath (you'd think they would at least paint that too).
It'll be restored and driven over the next 4 years until my daughter is old enough to drive - plus she is going to help restore it. It's what she wanted (an orange Bug) and I couldn't pass up on a deal - especially for a great running, solid car.
If your MC is leaking, do clean up after it as brake fluid is very corrosive - it will eventually cause nasty rot. The bug I got must have had a bad MC and it did a job on the napoleon hat (that large brace that the MC bolts to), the frame head bottom plate and floor. To repair/replace those pieces is serious surgery.
About the fender rubber/gasket (not sure what the name is): mine was black. The bug was originally baby blue. Not sure about this, but I think they are all black.
I once owned a Super Beetle.. now my Super Beetle was an Autostick, and rotted.. so the horror stories are much more than usual.. Like the front end almost falling out on the way home.. the Wheel falling off while then being towed, and causing a wreck.. Taking my girlfriend for a ride and the ball joint busting.. dragging down the road.. etc..
So here's what I suggest.
If you drive, and at 40MPH feel shimmy in the steering.. Then you have the Super Beetle blues, and will need to look into the Tie Rods, Ends, Balljoints, etc.. or.. you may end up like I did. I highly reccomend to replace the ball joints just for fun, and maybe new tie rod ends, if the tie rods look ok.
As for brakes.. Mine was the same.. It is hard to find brake lines at a local store. I would reccomend not replacing just the master cylinder.. this is an old vehicle. The wheel cylinders are only about $20 or less each. A must. I changed the shoes too. You will most likely find if you do not also change the wheel clyinders, that the bleeder valves will most likely be clogged anyways or snap off. Unless it had recent brake work, inwich the master cylinder was simply overlooked. However, since your daughter may be driving, you may want to do a front disc brake conversion. The brakes are not all that good to begin with. I have all around disc brakes on my new bug, and it stops on a dime.
Welting color is no major deal for a daily driver. Most amateur paint jobs paint right over them. Matching color to vehicle. You may wonder why?? Unless you have serious plans on redoing the vehicle to full extent, I wouldn't bother. Sometimes the fender bolts rust, and will snap off.. etc.. or pieces of the vehicle snap off while trying to loosen the fender for changing the welting. May open a can of beans. Again, mine was a beast!!! Maybe I am wrong with saying that. My new bug has 100% new bolts on every fender, so I know it would be ok to loosen them. My welting will be black.. only because it will be painted with fenders off. Then the fenders painted seperately. If yours are black, consider it a bonus!! That means that the fenders were removed without much issue and reinstalled.
All in all, sounds like you got a great deal. Especially with the A/C components. Compressors used are on Thesamba.com for no more than $50.
these days. Before you dump a ton of money, make sure the heater channels are solid. Make sure where the door pillars meet the floor, that they are solid to the floor. I would personally pull up the carpet edge near the doors to inspect the heater channels. These are very important.
Regardless of any situation, you will have alot of fun!!! I started in the VW's nearly 6 years ago.. from horror stories.. and still at it now. No longer a horror story. Every single day, I think about a VW. I proposed in my 1960 Bug. When I went to purchase it, the family snickered that a wedding was more important. I bought it. Went to Kayes Jewellers, and proposed in it on Christmas Eve. Heck, I even bought one of those new Beetles for my girlfriend just the other week. Going to buy a 70 Bug to restore this weekend too.
Now sit back.. relax.. Go to Youtube.com and search for "Bug Drag Racing" videos.
My 1960 is on their.. not drag racing though.. I wish.. Acting drag racing with a stock 1600cc engine.
Barnhart P> Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine, trans
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:
Tracks straight and no shimmy up to 70mph. The struts/shocks are solid. But since I have 4 years to play with it - I'll rebuild the whole thing.
The guy had just replaced the master before I got it and when I test drove it the day before - all was good. I'm thinking leaking line or wheel cylinder - or he didn't bleed the master. Where is the master cylinder on this critter? It has a recent brake job. Where do I find info on a disc brake conversion?
Again, 4 years. So off come all the pieces and will be sanded and repainted factory orange with new welting.
All is solid and rust free except for some body surface rust here and there (nothing serious). It does need a right front fender as the headlight bucket is pushed in. Heater channels are good and solid. I was discussing with my Dad since we have the time - if it wouldn't be to our advantage and yank the frame/pan from the body and have it coated up at someplace like Line-X? Do it once, never worry about it ever again.
Oh, it's missing the a/c piece that went under the dashboard unfortunately. I was thinking of going through Hot Rod Air
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and getting the conversion kit for it - give it an update.
"Dave Tosi" wrote in news:ZPDGg.3732$n%.990 @tornado.southeast.rr.com:
Funny you should ask. I picked it up and was driving it home - pulled up to the stop sign out of the previous owner's subdivision - brakes were fine. This was way back a hilly, curvy road - so the brakes got a workout. I pull into this little town - come up to the 4-way intersection (red light) and the pedal goes right to the floor - no resistance! Luckily the speed limit in this town was 20mph and I was already gearing down for the stop. Just about 100 ft from the Blazer wating to go, the light went green - he went and I turned onto the highway I needed...my wife was following, but I decided I better not tell her or she'd panic - I've driven a couple cars where the brakes failed - luckily all were stick shift. Took it easy going home and parked it right in the driveway - it would stop at less than 5mph.
I saw you ask this twice and not get a reply. Lot's of info in the other posts. I'm just now getting back to r.a.m.v.a. and usually just lurk.
Look at the brake pedal.
Now, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.
Get out of the car and look throght the fender well at the spot where your foot would be if you shoved the brake pedal all the way therough the floor.
There's the master cylinder.
Easiest way to do brake work up front is to put the whole front up on stands and remove both wheels. You can pretty much see the whole system from underneath.
If you're REALLY replacing everything brake related and you can have the car off the road a couple of days -- pull the fuel tank out. You can actually reach all the components up front through the hole without having to crawl around under a car that's on jackstands.
CIP1 has a great disc brake set up, I have installed a few on my customers cars. It takes me about an hour and the differance is worth every cent. I try to convince all my customers to do the conversion...it would save on a lot of front apron replacements...lol
Congrats, I just purchase a 74 Super Beetle for my daughter about a month ago and will be our project for her to drive in about 4-5 years too!. She loves it. I also got a good deal and am reading up quite a bit as it's our first bug...; Let the fun begin!
gvl2 wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sysmatrix.tld:
I like the idea of pulling the tank as I have a leak anyway (I think the small vent hose has a hole), or at least a "gassy smell" right up where the filler tube is. That way I can inspect the gas tank for any issues.
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