Next problem, The Distributor, 74 Bus

Well no used on the samba.

The bus depot offers three distributors:

More intersting reading:

This is a 100% new - OE Genuine VW of Mexico single vacuum advance distributor. This distributor provides mechanic advance along with the vacuum advance for a smooth and reliable service. The advantage of this type of set up over a standard 009 Bosch distributor is - NO MORE FLAT SPOT when you take-off from a stop sign. The combination of a new 30 or 34-PICT carburetor and our new vacuum advance distributor will give you the smoothes driving experience you have ever had in your Beetle, Ghia or Bus. This distributor also works with all 1972 and later Bus/Van 17-2000cc engines with stock intake systems. We also offer our all new OE Quality BRUCK SVDA distributor at a introductory low price. SEE PART NUMBER C24-043-905-205-ZB

This distributor WILL NOT work properly with aftermarket carburetion systems unless a correct vacuum port is installed into one of the carburetors. DO NOT TRY THIS YOURSELF, only an expert with proper experience on the brand of carburetor you have will be able to tell you if this can be done, and how to do this. Any engine with a large duration cam shaft will not have sufficient vacuum at idle to make the vacuum advance distributor work correctly.

Comes complete with cap,rotor,points and condenser. Ready to install. Will work properly with any 13-1600cc Beetle, Bus or Ghia engine with the stock

30 or 34-PICT carburetor. If your original distributor is dual vacuum, then you will need to cap off the vacuum retard side, and only run the vacuum advance from the side of the carburetor. To upgrade to Pertronix or Compu-fire electronic ignition, see part numbers PER-1847 or C22-21101.

-------------------------------- So I wonder if my single weber carb is givign me trouble. at idle iI have about 11 IN. of vac. At reving, it moves around. Goes up to 15 or so, but I never checked it to the RPM. This is direct from the carb.

I have now concluded that the centrfgl adv is seized. My father telling me how works. Hope I can unstick it.

The main shaft is made of two parts, there's dirt in between the layers. Soak it up in some solvent like carb cleaner overnight, and try to twist the top end (where the rotor goes) loose from the bottom end (the part that goes inside the engine)

jan

driver wrote:

I don't think there is dirt in there.

I keep spraying it with CorosionX oil. It should loosen. But right now, it will not move at all. I have it installed so I can keep the bottom locked.

oh boy.

Can I dismantal it completely?

I mean, this thing is really seized. I am applying a few foot pounds at least with my hand. it moves about 1/16.

If you look down the center of the top, under the rotor, you will see a brown felt plug. On each service people are supposed to put a few drops of oil on the pad to keep the 2 halves of the shafts lubricated so sludge does not lock them up....like yours did. But no one ever lubes the shaft and they freeze up. Going to electronic ignition makes it even worse because then you totally forget about popping the dist cap!

Get carb spray cleaner; not brakekleen, not WD-40, not penetrent oil, get real carb spray cleaner like Berrymans B100. Remove the rotor and remove the felt. Spray in the center, let it sit, spray, let it sit. Then try to rotate the rotor. Keep working it back and forth and spray and soak.

I regularly rebuild these for $55, including return shipping. Small parts are included, major parts may be extra. Major parts other than vac adv cans are seldom needed.

You may succeed at this yourself, but you are very likely to be stymied at some point, or to damage something and ruin the distributor. Go ahead and try it, but be aware enough to know when to stop.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Yes you can take the whole thing apart, but it reqyuires some work.. and violence. :) The biggest pain is the little c-clip that locks the top half of the shaft to the bottom half. It's inside the shaft, at the top. To get it off, you need to hit the end of the inner shaft with a punch pretty hard. While the whole assembly is already out. And to get it out you have to remove the bottom drive cog. It's held in place with a steel pin, which has to be driven out with a punch too. Do that first, then you can remove the whole assembly from the distributor body. Don't lose the fragile fiber washers between the drive cog and the dizzy foot.

Jan

driver wrote:

OK, thanks everyone. Today is a new day and it is not raining. THe sun is shining. I'll first get some carb cleaner and spray it in the top. What about spraying down along the shaft, into the centrifigul parts? I guess that won't penetrate the siezed area.

brown felt plug. On each

the 2 halves of the shafts

ever lubes the shaft and

then you totally forget

real carb spray cleaner

center, let it sit, spray,

and spray and soak.

It is starting to move. I have been spraying it with carb cleaner. (I have my old engine out and have an easy place lock the distrib and keep rocking the rotor). It is still binding and I hope it frees all the way up.

How far should the rotor move? I am guessing about 10-12 deg. Since the centrififul adv is 21-25deg. (unless this includes the 7-12 from vac adv.) Then is would only move about 6-8 deg. so that is 12-15 in the engine.

horizontal.

distributor.

Looking much better now,.

Dismantaled the whole thing. Some photos here:

Thanks all for the advice.

---Steve

74 Westie, NJ