no spark and other wierdness

74 beetle

well, after the machinist told me to weld a chain to my old motor and make an anchor out of it, i got a new one from aircooled.net. just dropped it in a bit ago, but i have a few problems. first i noticed while cranking the motor that the oil pressure hit 60psi, much higher than my old one did even when it was reving and reving. i am concerned, should i be? i didn't even have the motor open other than to adjust the valves

next, on the old motor, there was a drilled out hole that the thermostat was connected to and the new one doesn't have it. i just have the flappers set to wide open, is this not okay. if not, i'll try to figure out how to mount the bracket to shrouding. is it normally mounted to the motor, the shrouding, or how? the hole in the old motor looked home made.

lastly, i had a labeling mix up when working on the coil, and low and behold, there is no spark :-(. i have a bunch of wires and 2 poles on the coil. i have a big fused red wire (14g), an unknown black wire from the wiring harness, an unknown gray wire from the harness, a tach, and a wire going to the carb (choke and fule sensor). Can somebody tell me which wire goes on which side (+ and -).

thanx 1,000,000

cricket

Reply to
Cricket
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Part of the dealer computer diagnostic wiring. (See: "What is this plug in my engine bay?" on my web site.)

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Maybe no damage to the engine itself. There are 2 piston-type oil pressure valves on the bottom of the engine. One of them is supposed to open to prevent high pressure inside the oil cooler. The other controls the system pressure. One (or both) of these could be stuck in the bore or assembled incorrectly.

This engine is under warranty?

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

"next, on the old motor, there was a drilled out hole that the thermostat was

No, it's not ok to set the air flaps wide open. This can prevent your engine from warming up properly, and cause raw gas to wash oil off the cylinder walls, create blow-by and alot of other nasty problems. The thermostat is supposed to mount under cylinders one and two, *inside* the shrouding. It should mount on a semi-triangular bracket with two screws. If that is not there, I suspect there should be holes to put one on. if there are not, I would contact the supllier of your engine...I beleive you said it was aircooled.net. Very knowledgeable staff there. However, for now, if where you live is warm in the summer, it can be permissable to set the flaps wide open. Just fix it and install a thermo before colder weather. -Anthony

Reply to
Anthony

Have you connected the reverse light yet? If not, it should have an inline fuse and connect to the coil.

John

Reply to
dragoneyre

tanks again, this is very helpful. I still wonder what the gray wire from the harness is?

Reply to
Cricket

Yea, I have a warranty.

The guy at aircooled.net told me the high pressure is normal and the problem is only that he sold me the wrong kind of seals for the oil cooler (black and not red), which he claims is his mistake. They fit fine though.

Does it seem likely I damaged the engine? Does the high oil pressure make sense to others? He told me on the phone that this is normal for a new cold motor. I put in the seals they sold me.

He is sending me the correct red seals now. Would you check the plungers, or figure all will be well when I get the new seals in as the guy at aircooled.net said?

Reply to
Cricket

Yes, the 60 lbs is not unusual. It is likely that the original seals were wrong and that is why it leaked. The 60lbs will not hurt anything. You shouldn't rev the engine up too much when cold in any case.

Jim SR

is only that he sold me the wrong kind of seals for the oil cooler (black and not red), which he claims is his mistake. They fit fine though.

Does it seem likely I damaged the engine? Does the high oil pressure make sense to others? He told me on the phone that this is normal for a new cold motor. I put in the seals they sold me.

He is sending me the correct red seals now. Would you check the plungers, or figure all will be well when I get the new seals in as the guy at aircooled.net said?<

Reply to
Jim

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:57:31 -0400, "Jim" , who was sitting in a corner eating his Xmas pie stuck in his thumb and pulled out a plum and began to run off at the mouth like so:

I can believe that. My old 1200 shows about 45 lbs when I first start it up in the morning and get the revs up to about 1000 rpm. I really think my engine is on its way out, though. After about a 20 mile sprint at 65-70 mph if I stop and idle around 800 rpm the low pressure idiot light comes on SOLID and the oil pressure gauge reads at about 5 pounds. Ugh. It still starts up *immediately* every time I turn the key and it idles great and has no hesitation, but it's starting to lose power. I used to have a top speed (whether anyone believes it or not.... *Kirin*....) of ~92 mph but now I can't get it over about 75 mph on a really good day on a flat stretch of road. Some days it seems to be having a bad day and it won't go over about 65 mph. The transmission is still good. Crunches on a 3-2 downshift but stays in

4th on the highway and shows no other signs of a problem except the 3-2 crunch. I think that one way or another I'm going to go with a 1600+ engine within the next couple of years. Of course if the 1200 I have now dies tomorrow then I'll be going with a 1600+ within the next couple of months. :-)

-- Travis (Shaggie) '63 VW Camo Baja...

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corrodes the vessel that carries it.

Reply to
travis

Shaggie, it is the (he he he he) Chopper (hahahahahaha) Gun Fiberglass ( BAWAHAHAHAHAH) that is causing your reduced speed and loss of power.........

Sorry......

-- Terry B AKA VDUBBS Buggin in Bama

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- vdubbs at highstream dot net64 Bug Rauchen

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Reply to
TerryB

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