Plugs and wipers

It is running lean on cylinder nr. two. Why is hard to say, are the distributor in the right position and are the cables located correctly, so that cable to cyl. #three is really in the correct location on the dizzy?(Only relevant on non-doghouse engines).

Is it the correct dizzy?

Valve clearance?

Partly blocked intake port in head?

J.

lube the shafts that go through the body. friction (corrosion and dirt) may be slowing them down.

The engine is a doghouse one, with SVDA dizzy (Bosch 0 231 170 186) and

Could an intake leak in the right side cylinder head to ram horn seal cause this?

I will probably start with checking the HT-lead order and the valve clearances.

Indeed it could.

J.

Checked the HT-lead order and placement. Checked and adjusted valve clearances to 0,15 mm. All was ok before in my opinion. Played around with starter spray in the engine compartment when the engine was idling. Only places I got response with the spray were the intake pipe of the air cleaner box (that I think should react to the spray) and the left side of the throttle flap axle.

The throttle axle bushings are worn I guess. This results to some problems in setting the idle. However I cannot see, why this could cause just cylinder 2 to run differently.

By the way, I did the 99 cent carb clean routine also ;)

Are there any ways to fix the throttle axle problem except to take the carb to a shop to be rebushed (or something).

Nope.

I would not worry about it, all old cars have some play in the throttle axle. As long as it idles ok and does not drip gazoline, no worries..

J.

Tried first with the blades off the windscreen. The second switch position is faster without the resistance from the actual wiping. Lubed the shafts. Lubed the joints in the levers between shafts and the motor. Fiddled with the connectors in the steering column. Now the blades go maybe a tad faster in the 2nd position when the blades touch the windscreen. It's possible though that when there is water in the screen to lubricate, it will work better.

If you want a little more umpfh, go with .10 in and .15 out. That is the original settings before they realized people where doing these things themselves and not bring their cars to the qualified garages.

Another aspect of this is the fact that the valve clearance is given at TDC, which is not the optimal setting. The clearance stated is the minimal. So what you want to do is turn the engine over slightly back and forth with your feeler gauge in there until you find the biggest clearance/slack. And THAT is where you adjust to .10 or .15

Repeat this for all eight valves and you'll know you have done the right thing even if it took you an hour or two.

This is not a witch tale, pure physics, test drive and you will notice.

J.

Ps. Helps to have the rear tin removed so you can move the lower pulley by hand from underneath the car. All sparkplugs out also eases the pain :0)

be slowing them

The biggest load slowing the motor is usually the grease in the gearbox. After ~40 years, the grease turns quite thick.

The motor speed is controlled by the motor itself. There is a 3rd brush on the motor for high speed. This brush is offset from the normal position by some degrees. The motor armature always attempts to generate a voltage equal to the 12V applied to the brushes, but the offset position is less efficient, so the armature must spin faster than normal to "keep up".

Speedy Jim

Ok. I will verify the adjustment procedure by you, that I am using.

Or am I assuming wrong about the valve timings of cylinders 2 and 4 in cyl 1 and 3 TDC position? Initially I did this assumption because it is easier to have the crank exactly at TDC position when the mark is upwards. Cylinder 2 and 4 TDCs are harder to find exactly. Your description made me think if it really matters at all to be exactly at TDC and whether the cyl 2 and 4 valves are really fully closed in cyl 1 and 3 TDC positions.

Sorry Olli, a cousin of mine is getting married on Saturday so we have =

been out drinking today. Brain is on standby mode and not much more =

tonight.

J=F8rn

--snippp--

Definitely. My Ghia got so bad the wipers didn't move at all last spring, not even without wiper arms or blades. ;)

Other shaft thoroughly rusty and the other wasn't much better, I had to heat those shafts to almost red hot to get them out of their holes.

Some sanding and water-resistant grease later wipers work like a charm.

Correction: no 2 exhaust valve

Ooops. The procedure I wrote had a typo. Correction above (phase 4).

Re the .10 in and .15 out. I,ve usually set my valve clearances down to 8 thou with engine dead cold. Too tight you think?. I seem to recall somewhere that VW dropped it down to 6 thou. Could be wrong ( happens a lot my wife says) John

in the days of 1200 the recommendation was 0.10mm but since people were too lazy to adjust the valves when recommended, the factory changed the spec to 0.15 to make sure the clearance would always be adequate even with sporadic or no maintenance.

For the same reason they also eliminated the oil drain plug from the sump plate, forcing you to open the whole plate (6 little nuts) in order to drain the oil. People wouldn't bother cleaning the screen or clean the accumulated gunk from the screen area when they had a convenient drain plug.

Back then, I often drove very hard (I was a rally driver), and ran my VWs with inlet on 0.20 mm and exhaust on 0.30 mm.

On short-stud engines, the recommendation was 0.10 mm (0.004"), and I ran my inlets on that and exhausts on 0.15 mm (0.006").

The wider clearances now recommended (0.15 mm all round for short studs) run considerably noisier, which is why they weren't recommended back when these cars were new.

John

Could it have anything to do with how the carb is jetted?

I use a 130 main jet and 55 idle jet. I think the size of the idle jet depends on you altitude.

The wipers on my 1973 Beetle were slow too. After I replaced the main wiring harness, from fuse box to tail lights, the wipers work like they are supposed to. Check everything else first though.

Jim Ed wrote: >

I have X130 main jet, g52,5 pilot jet, g45 aux jet and 110Z air correction jet. They should all be standard.