sermons and full-flow

do let us know when the sermons are back online for download/purchase. regarding full-flow oil filters...can anyone explain to me how this is set up on an air-cooled vw? pictures, explaining it to me like i'm 5 years old, etc. would all help.

-c

Reply to
Chris Miller
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Here's a good page with pictures:

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In short: You re-route oil flow from the pump into a modern car oil filter, and then run a return line back into the main oil galley, via a threaded hole you make yourself. To prevent any oil from trying to go the old route, you plug the original oil pump outlet and take the oil out through a special pump cover instead.

Everything else works the same. You just steal the oil out of the engine to filter it remotely, and then return it.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

This page shows fittings that you would use with barbed hose fittings, with very much like your garden hose type connectors with hose clamps securing the hose. While it works reasonably well if you use good hoses and VERY good quality clamps, I would recommend threaded fittings all the way. You can buy the ff hose and filter kit ready made with threaded fittings and compressed hose joints that won't leak or come undone

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Picture of Gene Berg full flow kit with the good hoses

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Reply to
Jan Andersson

Jake Raby has made a new pumpcover with better flow than the others. He has also come up with an intermediate plate out og toolsteel which prevents wear on the cover.

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

I've used pushlok fittings and hoses. Those you can cut yourself and push them on by hand. No special tools or clamps. You can also disconnect them just like AN fittings.

Anton

Reply to
anton

i used the pushloc fittings once too... i put clamps on those fittings after a hose blew off... the hoses are real close to my header and the heat must have made the hose soft.... i thought the hoses with no clamps was too good to be true...turns out, it was...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

i guess it was really close then, cause mine have been fine so far, they do run under heater box and the the header.

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I had to replace straight ends with 90 degrees to make lines shorter and there was no way I could get hose off the barb end. Had to cut it off.

Anton

Reply to
anton

same route mine took and mine were no closer to the headers...you do have the heat sheilding sleeves on yours, i did not... as i said, and it's just a guess, it was probably the heat that made the hose soft and it blew off....i was lucky it was in the driveway and not on the highway...could have been engine damage at speed...sure did make a mess and alot of smoke...(i too, had to shorten a hose after installing it and couldn't pull it loose...just a friendly "heads up"...clamps are cheap....)

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

Pressed, threaded fittings. Find a hydraulic equipment store and ask them if they know who would make these for you to your lenght. Or buy a ready made kit for a VW.

hoseclamps are unreliable, many clamps are crappy quality wise, and loosen up or do not squeeze the hose all the way around.

I do have double clamped "hose clamp" type fittings on my car though.. just a temporary solution before I could find/afford real hoses.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

i agree that high pressure lines are much better...i'm currently running the SS braided Berg hoses on the bug... was just cautioning on the pushlocs based on my personal experience...If i remember correctly Mr. Stafford's engine fire in his car was due to a pushloc fitting blowing off... Mr. Stafford, correct me if i'm mistaken.

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

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