would this full-flow setup work?

If you want to create a full flow oil system you have a couple possibilities: drill and tap somewhere in the case, or close an exit port of the oil pump en use a plate with exits, etc.

But would this also work? :

Remove the spring of the first pressure relieve valve (the valve that determines if the oil is to be send through the oil cooler or not), and replace this by a bar so that the piston is always in the top position. This will always sent the oil to the oil cooler. Then attach a oil line to the standard oil cooler output port which goes to an oil filter. From the oil filter a oil line goes to the oil thermostat and from there to the (external) oil cooler and then back again to the thermostat. And finally from the thermostat to the standard oil-coolers input port.

Will this work?

Greetings, Gerrelt.

Reply to
beetle boy
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It sounds like it would work most of the time, but you would lose the pressure relief function of the first pressure valve. Without that, an enthusiastic foot on the throttle with a cold engine might blow up the filter or cooler.

Berg sells a pressure relief pump cover which is a good idea for any engine that sees enthuiastic use in cool temps.

I see your point, but wonder why you would choose to go this route when a better choice is readily available.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

Not te cooler, with an cold engine the oil would not reach the cooler because of the oil thermostat.

Aircooled.net sells an oil filter adapter with an oil pressure relieve valve built in it, so that would solve this problem. But would this be really necesarry with a stock engine, with a stock oil pump?

I have several reasons why I want to try this setup:

  1. It's cheaper, you'll have to buy less special parts (just the oil thermostat, oil filter adapter, and some hose)
  2. I like the place of the stock-oilcooler better for attaching oil hoses. With the "standard" setup the lines will run near the exhaust and the hoses have to be longer. The adapter of the oil filter can also be more easily mounted with this setup.
  3. No tapping and drilling in the case. I think that overall this setup is easier to install.
Reply to
beetle boy

I blew up 2 Fram oil filters in a row in my driveway by revving the engine up to about 2500-3000 RPM while it was cold. Stock engine, stock oil pump. I'm a slow learner.

"Stupid people are funny." - me

Reply to
Shag

are you planning on using the stock oil cooler in a remote location? or one of those cheesy sandwich adaptors that will make your fanshroud not sit down completely? if the former you will have to buy a cooler, if the latter you will have no need for the oil thermostat, you can leave the stock system in place..

there seems to be no problem with the cooler lines running near exhaust, it has been done for 40 years that way.... the oil filter adaptor can be mounted very easily...mine is mounted to the bumper mount under the fender of my 68 bug...two hole of the common oil filter adapter will line up with two existing bumper bracket holes...

tapping the gallies is a good thing....i have full flowed my case and it was a very easy, and simple operation....plus it allowed me to clean the oil passages in the case...if you have never done that before you would not even be able to imagine the crap that gets stuck in there....by tapping all my oil gallies i was able to use a "barrel brush"(for cleaning guns) to get all the crap out...was simple, painless, and by far the *best* way to add full flowing filtration...plus it left my stock oil cooling/pressure regulation systems intact....

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

Probably yes, I want to set up a driving air-flow plus fan air-flow combination. In traffic, it will use the air from the fan, when driving at highway speeds it will use outside air.

I disagree. I think the stock "thermostat" setup is kind of crappy. It even depends on what oil you use when the oil gets send to the oil-cooler. Thinner oil = longer warmup times. I make a lot of short trips with my beetle, so I want it to warm up quick (yes, I have the flaps installed).

You still have the longer oil lines this way. And less heat to the oil lines is always better than a lot of heat. Even if the oil lines are up to it.

True, tapping and cleaning the oil passages is a very good thing. But, I don't want to take my engine apart just to install a full flow system. Call me cheap and lazy... ;-)

Reply to
beetle boy

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