Something that doesn't work

Having the pleasure of someone else's car in my garage, engine sitting on the floor in pieces, I found myself needing to remove the crankshaft pulley(stock style) from a stock 1600 engine. I've never had to do this job on a stock pulley before since I run one of the aluminum jobbies. But the gal I'm helping assured me that she had bought the proper tool to pull the stock pulley off the engine. She bought this one:

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Lotsa places seem to carry this type, under $20 almost everywhere I look. Same tool in each case, at least according to the pictures.

This puller, which I see sold by several vendors, is a first rate piece of crap. The stock pulley has slots cut in the front near the center so that you can remove it from the engine without destroying it. This style puller grabs on the outer rim of the pulley. I suggested we not even bother trying it, but the gal wanted to change the tinware behind the pulley so I relented and agreed to try this wonder tool out. And as I began to tighten down the center bolt I watched the pulley begin to deform, like magic, right in front of my eyes. Doesn't damage the pulley, according to Chirco. BS according to me. The pulley never did come off the crank at all.

Having already ruined the stock pulley I made my own puller out of a couple of bolts and washers through the factory slots in the pulley and the center section of a harbor freight puller. A few whaps on the center screw of my homebrew puller with the impact wrench and the pulley walked right off of the crank without a fight. I should have done that in the first place, but hindsight is always 20/20.

Does anyone sell the -correct- puller for the stock crankshaft pulley that fits into the slots near the hub? How about a picture of one?

Chris

Reply to
halatos
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LOL Chris I bought a puller that does grip from the slots in the pully but the center screw stripped on the first i used it on.

I use a KD tool steering wheel puller that I just had to grind the sides of 2 bolts and it has always worked flawless for about 20 yrs now.

Mario Vintage Werks resto

Reply to
Kafertoys

The approved 'Field Repair' procedure is to use a pair of "..thin- bladed.." screwdrivers at least 20cm in length. The screwdrivers are inserted behind the pulley so that one rests on the crankcase above the hub, the other below the hub. The pulley is then 'walked' off the crankshaft by '...rapidly applying alternate pressure to the screwdrivers."

Clear as mud, right? :-)

In English, you've got two skinny screwdrivers with shafts about ten inches long. Rather they PRY the pulley off the hub, you use the springiness of the screwdriver's shaft to 'walk' the pulley off the hub. If the thing is seriously tight it might take ten minutes and a shot of Liquid Wrench but the procedure DOES work, and causes no damage to the pulley, the screwdrivers or the tin-ware.

As a point of interest, when using the factory tool (ie, the one that use the windows cut into the pulley), the manual sez to STOP if there is ANY sign of deformation of the pulley, indicating that it might be "..frozen to the shaft." We're not talking ice here, fellers... they mean if the thing is seriously stuck due to rust or whatever, DON'T just keep tightening the the bolt.

As to WHY the thing gets stuck, a lot of schlock shops SAND BLAST the crankshaft prior to doing a re-grind (they buy these things as cores

-- they're liable to covered with rust). That's a no-no for the pulley hub. It's SUPPOSED to be as clean & shiny as the journals. Sand-blast it, the thing is virtually guaranteed to be a one-time fit that may need some heroic efforts to remove.

Liv & lurn :-)

-Bob Hoover

PS -- You NEVER grip the RIM of a vee-belt pulley when removing the thing. Vee belts only work because of the fit of the SIDES of the belt against the tapered pulley. Distort that shape by even the tiniest amount and you've just created a pulley that will flat EAT belts like peanuts.

Reply to
Veeduber

I have used that exact tool for many years, and it works great on all pulleys. Just need to know one thing: Do not overtighten!

Don't tighten the center bolt so much that the pulley starts to bend. If it does, it will also deform the center hole, and really bite into the crank, and REALLY get stuck. Loosening the center bolt back up and rotating the puller 180 degrees should be enough to get it going again and not bend the pulley again in the same spot.

You apply A LITTLE pressure on the pulley with the puller, and then start tapping the pulley with a hammer (rubber, plastic, wood), and it will start coming out. You will notice your progress when the puller gets loose. Then tighten it again to get steady "pull" on the pulley, bt not enough to bend it. Then tap all around again with the hammer. Repeat the cycle a million times.

Jan

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Reply to
Jan Andersson

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