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240 heater valve replacement

_____ Hello All,

Finally managed to get the heating system back together in my 1981 vintage 245 wagon. I had to replace the fan motor, heater core, and control valve. After FCP supplied the correct valve kit (i received the wrong one first), i installed it, replaced the heater, and refilled the system with glycol. BIG SURPRISE !! The valve leaked badly, and i could not even restart the engine. To solve the problem i put in a VW Golf/Rabbit heater valve with a modified actuating arm (much shorter). The heating system is back together, no leaks (yet), and the heater runs nice and hot Now i can reassemble the center console and dash.

Why a VW valve ? It costs _much_ less than the ScanTech product, and is probably not as leak prone. You can see the retrofit photos at , Section

2.2.3. By the way, the old style Volvo valve is _not_ repairable. The rubber membrane at the top develops pin holes, and it is impossible to replace it, or seal it. I tried very hard, but to no avail.

/ jch

Reply to
jch
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Hi John,

Your report on your handiwork, available at the website you supplied:

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absolutely amazing. I wonder if other NG readers missed it, failing togo to the website.......... The subject line of your post doesn't do itjustice. You've done a tremendous amount of work, but what is perhaps more impressive is the intimate detailed manner in which you recordrd it. I learned a lot! May be in the year 2017 our '93 245 will be in need of some these repairs...............

Well done John! Andy I.

Reply to
brackenburn

Andy,

Thanks for your kind comments. At least a couple of people have looked at the web pages judging from my access log on the server (OpenBSD 3.6, free, stable, secure, and available on CD from Calgary, AB).

The issue of a heater valve replacement is, in fact, significant. A leaking valve _must_ be replaced, especially when it is located in the passenger compartment of the vehicle. You could plug off the heater hoses, and have no heat at all, or install a tube instead of a valve, and have full heat all the times. Neither "solution" is acceptable. One really needs a proper valve that fits, and does _not_ leak!

I made the notes and photos (now that i have a small digital camera) for my own use. It helps to record what i did, so that i remember for the next time. The HTML file is easy to write, and makes a good "notebook". Plus, if someone else can benefit from my experience, so much the better.

When i refurbished the front struts, and the in-tank fuel pump i did not yet have the digital camera. It would have been nice to have photos of those repairs as well. I am not finished yet. Perhaps by spring time the car will be ready so that i can get the plates plus insurance for it. This wagon is for my wife. By the way, i noticed that you have a shaw.ca user ID. You can reach me off-line at c..o..n..t..r..e..x..AT..s..h..a..w...c..a. I am in BC, close to Victoria.

/ John

Reply to
jch

I too have benefitted from John's experience and documentation. There really is a lot of that sort of thing out there- folks who start some hobby or some process, document it, and post it on the net. I have done a few myself, although not Volvo related. It is amazing at the reach such efforts can have. I am in California and I got a letter from a fellow in England thanking me for one of my how-to sites, telling me how much effort and trouble it saved him. Moveable type, television, and the Internet... amazing stuff all.

And, John- I can't primise when, or even "if," as I have other prijects going, but if I can, when I do my struts I will try to take a lot of pics and send them off to you. In the meantime, don't turn down any other offers for the same. BTW- the "other project" at the moment is the used 30 foot (9.25 meters) motorhome we brought home last night!!! :-)

I never thought I would own a vehicle with a bathroom, kitchen, couch, and queen size bed in it!!!!! ;-)

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Reply to
Randy G.

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