240 motor/gb change

The only A motors I've seen had either a single Stromberg on British car or a Dutch car with I think was a Pierburg down draft setup. So bear that in mind. Assuming the B23E motor is the same as an B23F with raised pistons then you would need: the tank, intank pump, fuel feed and return pipes, fuel filter fittings at left front hood hinge, main fuel pump, engine harness, fuel injection control unit, ignition harness and control unit. Inspect the engine harness carefully. And perhaps the EVAP plumbing, charcoal cannister and bracket. If it hasn't been changed to the newer type (dark grey firewall connector as opposed to the earlier light gray) then change it out before you drop the motor in.

Save the drive shaft and transmission cross member from the donor car. Check the differential ratios, probably use the rear drum to drum from the donor. The front exhaust from the header to the front muffler may be a different length. Obviously you'll need the pedal hanger bracket and the pedals from the donor car.

The main power feed and fuse holder, IIRC, is separate from the engine harness and can be easily fabricated.

You will need the air intake bits from the donor car. Intake horn and short pipe, air box, MAF, bellows tube.

Throttle cable is different.

I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'm not looking at either car right now.

Bob

Your best bet would be to buy the whole wrecked car and then you'll have everything you need. I've done a few auto to manual swaps, and I put a B23E into a B21F car but I've never converted a carbureted car to FI or done so much at once.

In addition to the engine and gearbox you'll need the brake/clutch pedal assembly, clutch cable, driveshaft, fuel pump, lines, filter, air plumbing, and probably some other assorted bits. It can certainly be done though and will give you one heck of a power boost.

Thanks guys.

It is a whole wrecked 245 that I'm getting, figured it would save me some time and money. I'm really looking forward to driving a manual again and I figure that the 25-30 extra hp from the b23e will be a pleasant surprise.

Are there any new parts I should swap in while I have the engine out of the car?, rear main seal etc

cheers

/Victor

Check the ratio shown on the rear axle. There's usually a plate riveted to the left side of the housing that lists the ratio. If they match, it is fine to leave as is. If they don't match, you'll be best off swapping the whole rear axle assembly. Of course, you'll want to keep whichever rear brakes are better...

If you are going to stay with the original diameter tyres for the sedan, keep the speedo for the car. The speedo head is different to suit the tyre diameter, not the final drive ratio! The gears on the bottom of the speedo cable (in the gearbox) are matched to the final drive ratio and would have to be changed to make the speedo accurate if you decide to not change the final drive to match. If you want to go to the bigger diameter tyres used on a wagon, change to the wagon speedo! On a metric speedo, the sedan one will have "r0,605" on the face and the wagon one will have "r0,595". I don't remember the numbers for MPH speedos but the wagon one will be a smaller number than the sedan one.

Of course, my 264 doesn't have _any_ of the original parts listed above except the speedo and brakes. The extra couple of hundred hp make it much more fun to drive. :-)

Both crank seals, the cam and aux shaft seals, injector seals, clean out the throttle body, check the condition of the exhaust manifold and gaskets, replace the latter if you remove the manifold. It's worth replacing all the shift linkage bushings and drain and fill the transmission with new fluid while you're at it. Oh and carefully inspect the engine wiring harness as it's likely to be rotting out if it's original.