240 starter removal issue

I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18 inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and all I did was break the ratchet extension.

Reply to
framed
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I'm not sure, but is there a nut on the other end of that bolt, on the back side of the bell housing? If so, it is imperative to remove the nut because the bolt just won't turn with the nut tight.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

On the manual gearbox cars there's just enough clearance, but the auto transmission is larger so you need a U-joint and some extensions. It's tricky and often you have to go one click at a time for what seems like eons but it can be done.

Reply to
James Sweet

The only way I am able to do this without any real problem is to lower the transmission cross member which gives you the clearance to access the top bolt Glenn K Certified Volvo Technician ASE Certified Technician

Reply to
Glenn Klein

I removed 3 of these from the local pick-n-pull, because they fit practically all models back to forever, including the otherwise cost-prohibitive replacement for vintage 544, 122, and 1800 models from the '50s through the '70s.

Anyway, two 12" ratchet extensions provide enough length and flex in the middle joint to get that 2nd nut from the rear. I haven't seen these seized with rust in Texas, but you may consider an extra long straw/tube to get a good shot of Liquid Wrench on the nut and bolt threads, and wait about a 1/2 hour to let it do the muscle work for you. Cheaper than broken ratchets.

Reply to
Pat Quadlander

With all the ratchet extensions I bought (18") it was like I was coiling a spring every time I tried to apply pressure. Besides, I couldn't get at it straight on, thereby necessitating the use of a ratchet joint. I felt I was about to break something when I put all my weight on it, and I also felt like the nut was not even about to budge.

Reply to
framed

If you are saying the bolt has a nut on the back side, concentrate on that. The bolt just won't loosen as long as the nut is tight.

If there is a nut and it is accessible enough, try this. Clamp a pair of vise-grips on the nut as hard as you possibly can, then spray penetrant (preferably not WD-40; use PB Blaster or other genuine penetrant) on the end of the nut where the threads disappear into the nut, concentrating on the area opposite where the vise-grips are clamped down. Let it soak up to half an hour. If another pair of flats on the nut is accessible, clamp the vise-grips down hard on those and repeat the spray and soak. Doing this forces the threads together where the vise-grips are clamped down and opens up a tiny gap 90 degrees from there. The penetrant can reach deep inside the fitting and the force breaks any adhesions in the threads. I don't know how much it reduces the torque, but every time I've had to resort to this technique and been able to get access it has been successful in freeing the nut.

If all fails, you may have to rent an impact driver and socket. Again, if there is a nut don't put the driver on the bolt head - it will likely break the bolt. But then it will come out....

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

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