'84 240 idle control motor and t-belt

tom callaway schrieb:

Have you looked in ebay? E.g. in the German

I would invest into a few bucks and buy a Volvo VADIS on ebay or a Haynes manual. Viktor

Actually, the inoperative one that's in there now came from ebay for about 40 bucks. Worked fine for a few weeks and died. It's such a pain in the butt to R&R, I'd like something that has a better chance of lasting a while.

I have Haynes and Chilton manuals. That's probably all he'll need.

Thanks Tom

I have had good luck with Groton, Brickboard and local wrecking yard. Local wrecking yard has been wonderful for 240 parts but then I am in Nor CaL where there are lots of Volvos around. Another place that has been very helpful to me especially with hard to find parts is VOLUPARTS 1-888-280-4057 email at snipped-for-privacy@mindspring.com. They will get you genuine parts (little plastic parts like sun visor clips, trim clips, etc.)

Howard

Thanks Howard. There are no Volvos in the wrecking yards around here. There are only 2 other 240's in the whole town and one of them is for sale at the local gas station. Groton was great for the brake parts, u-joints, fuel pump, etc. -- fantastic response time. But 200 bucks seems a tad high for the idle motor. I just emaied Voluparts for a quote and we'll see what they can do.

When I bought this car I was living in Denver, and used to comb the local yards for this sort of thing all the time. I could have probably gotten it for 10 bucks and if it didn't work I'd just get another one. If it needed more work than I could do myself, I had Tim's Volvo Service to do the real stuff. Here in the Greater Talihina, Oklahoma Metropolitan Area, it's a whole different deal.

Since I've been here (nearly two years), I've just about run the wheels off it without much maintenance. Recently it started quitting on me on the highway and I had to decide whether to get it back into top shape or replace it. Since I love all old Volvos and this one in particular, I'm going to give it what it needs.

It's very rare for these to actually fail, but they do get gummed up and jam sometimes. Clean it out with carb cleaner first, also check the electrical connector to it, an electrical problem can also make it stick wide open.

that idle control can be washed and re used most likely very expensive to buy and I clean my three with the timing belt its a must for peace of mind

Thanks James, I guess I should try that with the one that's in there now. The original one must be one of the rare ones. I took it apart and found the commutator horribly gouged and only one of the three brush contacts intact. One of the contacts was worn completely away. Like we say down here, "It's wore smooth out."

I first had problems with the original a few years ago. My mechanic in Denver replaced the engine wiring harness and told me he couldn't get the idle motor to work. When I picked it up it was idling very fast, but by the time I got it home it was working fine. Worked fine until last summer and stuck open again. Bought one on ebay that quickly did the same thing. My hands and forearms hadn't healed from the R&R, so I just pulled the hoses and plugged them with corks and set the idle with the bypass screw.

My main concern is that it's so friggin' hard to get to. The last time, I took the throttle body off and it was still a PIB. Maybe I could get some longer hoses and mount it somewhere else.

Hmm, yeah that sounds like it's definitely bad. They're easy to find in junkyards around here, I'm surprised ebay isn't full of them.

There's a few on ebay for about $35 to $40, but I'm a little leery due to my past experience with the used one. If I go that way, I'm going to try to relocate the thing so I can get to it easier. I'd be willing to spend more if it meant I didn't have to deal with it again for a long time. I still don't know which is the proper part # or if they both should work.

Any Bosch 3 wire idle valve should work, they're all pretty much the same. There's two versions I know of, the old large diameter type and the newer small diameter type, they're functionally compatible. You could get a new one online if in doubt.