Fixed the 740...but headlights inop!

Wow, I would not let that mechanic anywhere near my car again if I were you, he missed checking some of the most obvious things, wasted time doing other things, and then failed to align the camshaft correctly when putting it back together. It takes a special kind of incompetence to do that.

The red can is the bulb failure sensor, you could pop the cover and see how the soldering on the circuit boards looks. Fuel pump relays can easily be fixed this same way.

James:

Also, to make matters even worse, when it went into this mechanics shop it had a working radio, a very nice one. When I got car to my house, the plug-in front had disappeared. Are replacement front panels hard to get? The mechanic is asking what brand of radio it is as he has a few panels in his office. But....the brand name was on the front panel! Now I have to figure out how to get the radio itself pulled out so I can look for model/ p/n. Don't have a clue. There must be some sort of fasteners or clips accessible from the bottom...while I have the fuse/relay panel out to fix headlights.

THe other issue perhaps you can help with is that I found a two-contact connector right ckose to the block under intake manifold just dangling! It comes out of a harness that passes by IAC control valve, going on towards the block, and I think this same harness goes to the two temp sensors under the intake manifold. There isn't a code for knock sensor being set, but I think this engine is supposed to have one....but I don't find a sensor underneath the intake manifold that is not plugged in. From the Chilton manual, it is positioned about in the area where the knock sensor should be, but I've never seen it. I think it mounts with one large bolt.

Thanks, Geronimo

Nope its not knock sensor connector, looked at it again in good daylight, and knock sensor is there, and has a connector on it. So I don't know what the disconnected connector could be for.

iirc, mine has such a disconnected socket as well. Could be a multi-model harness with an unused connector for your car.

I would make a complaint with the BBB, auto service bureau or such about that mechanic. He should have been able to HEAR that the timing was off as soon as you pulled it in. And now the radio front is missing and he just HAPPENS to have extras in his office!?!?!?

Use an ohm meter and check to see if the switch is sending voltage to the headlights and then trace the problem from there. maybe the mechanic switched your headlight bulbs- check to see that the are good and connected before driving yourself crazy! AGAIN!!

;-) __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Is this an aftermarket radio? Usually they come with some special release tools to remove it from the sleeve. Without those, getting it out will be difficult.

That does sound like it could be the knock sensor wire. The sensor is a round puck that should be bolted to the block in that general area.

I think it is an aftermarket radio, but it fits in the dash like OEM. Felt around underneath the radio, but couldn't see how to release it, so I am just hosed as far as radio.

I looked underneath intake manifold in better light and the knock sensor is there. Randy G. says he also has an unused similar connector on his 740, so I guess it is not supposed to be connected, its just unused.

I swapped J and K 4-terminal relays, and then the headlights worked, so I have a bad main power relay. Simple fix. Now all I have to do is replace smashed RH turn/ marker lens, get a set of new tires, fix A/C and its good to go for another 100K. ;-)

Thanks, Geronimo

Well you can remove the whole assembly to get to it that way, I forget how I did that now, does anyone know if this car has the same style radio cubby as my '87?

James: well the radio is a small issue. The speedometer doesn't work, the sender in the differential probably is shot. For some months it was intmt before dying altogether. I did check the connector to it and it was OK, no broken wires. This is a $90 part new from RockAuto.com.... A bit steep, so you wouldn't have saved that from the Volvo you parted out, did you? The local junkyards never seem to have 740 parts....I wonder if the 92 240s (if there was a 240 that year) and the 940s used the same sender? Thanks, Geronimo

Actually I might be barking up wrong tree entirely on the speedo sensor. Driving it around today I noticed that the odometer is still working. I would think that pulses from the same sender in differential are driving the odometer also, so if it still works, it would have to be the speedometer itself that has stopped working. Right?

Wow...given the string of disasters that guy has caused I wouldn't let him within 100 feet of the car. You may want to look into having an independent evaluation done and consider bring suit!

For electrical issues I would get a copy of the Volvo manual for your car.

I've never seen or heard of one of those senders failing in a Volvo,

*ever*. In theory it could happen, but that would be the absolute last place I looked. Start by checking the fuse for the instruments, then look at the speedo itself and the wire to the sender.

Bingo, you've got a problem in the speedo itself, solder joints on these are notorious for being bad.

Concerning the speedo sender: I think I am barking up the wrong tree

---on second thought---- as I noticed today that the odometer is still running, just the speedometer needle is always showing zero now. I am thinking there is only one signal drving both odometer and speedometer....is that right?

I found an entire 92 740 turbo inst cluster for $37.00 on eBay....maybe it will fix the turbo boost and temp gauge as well!

Thanks, ger>ger>> James: well the radio is a small issue. The speedometer doesn't

The other question I have is what do you do when the little ball-joint plastic mount/support ends break that hold the headlight assemblies?

For now I have two bungees installed on the healdlamp sockets so that the headlights aren't completely loose, but of course they cannot be adjusted normally.

The turbo boost guage is mechanical, if it isn't working the hose popped off or split somewhere.

You replace the broken parts...

Yea, I kinda thought that much myself ;-)

I guess what I was getting at is if the headlight mounts can be obtained from some supplier, or if that is something that has to be scrounged from a salvage yard. On the other hand, bungee cords are cheap and will probably last 50K miles ;-) I can also tell someone truthfully that the old car is being held together with rubber bands ;-)

Dunno, I'd start by calling the parts dept of a local dealer to find out.