Please tell me this is not what I think it is. Notice the white line on the belt and the white mark on the pulley. Are these lines supposed to be aligned and could this be why my car has NO power?
Jamie
Please tell me this is not what I think it is. Notice the white line on the belt and the white mark on the pulley. Are these lines supposed to be aligned and could this be why my car has NO power?
Jamie
Forgot to ask, if so, can I adjust it easily with just this cover removed?
1987 740 GLE B230FMy neighbor walked over and said I can't judge the timing by the position of the belt, so I am not sure if these marks should always line up or not. I would say they should. But, I could be wrong.
Remove the upper & lower covers & turn the crankshaft until you can see the mark on the timing gear on the crankshaft there is a small stamping on the cover where the seal sits once this is lined up correctly check the marking's for the camshaft & the intermediate shafts if these mark are not lined up correctly then this is your problem as for the mark on the belt not lining up once you run the engine the marks on the belt will not line up correctly anymore the lines are there for installing the belt the 1st time Post back with results Glenn
First the double mark on the belt means nothing once the motor has turned. It's a set up mark for the crank pully. If the notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the index mark on the timing seal cover, (use a bendalight or strong flashlight to look down inside the lower timing cover) then by my count the belt is three teeth advanced. Turn the engine one more revolution and put the crank shaft pulley mark in register by checking the notch as above the notch on the damper pulley should be at 0 on the timing cover and the white mark (dot) on the cam pulley should align with the mark on the inner timing cover (dead center on the arc of the cam cover). Right now if the crank is correct the cam is about three teeth wrong.
Before you reset the belt take the 17mm headed bolt out of the cam pulley and make sure that the roll pin that indexes the pulley to the cam shaft has not sheared off. If that's OK put the bolt back and torque to spec. Now slacken the nut 17mm wrench on the tensioner. Use a long screwdriver or pry bar to collapse the spring and tighten the nut. The belt can be easily slid off the cam pulley. Using the same 17mm wrench turn the cam to its index position, slide the belt back on, slacken the nut on the tensioner, tighten, turn the motor over two times by hand, recheck the marks for alignment--if they're ok put the cover back on. Good to go, otherwise reset the belt again, etc. etc.
Don't depend on the notch on the damper pulley. The outer sheaves are just pressed over a rubber sleeve on the hub and it can turn relative to the crankshaft (over time) and can be unreliable.
Bob
--The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
Thanks Bob. I have to ask - would 3 teeth make a noticeable difference in engine performance? Right now the engine really runs like crap from a stop - no power. Once I get going it does better.
It starts and idles fine, but it really sucks out of the starting gate. When I get into 3rd gear and up she runs like a real car. Before 3rd gear it runs like a 90 year old mule.
Jamie
Just gotta be a wise guy. If it didn't make a difference they wouldn't go to the trouble of putting marks on things so one could do the job effortlessly and have the correct result. As the teacher said in second grade, "Check your work BEFORE you turn it in." Your guy didn't and as you can tell it makes a noticeable difference.
Bob
The belt marks only line up correctly when first installed. To check if everything is lined up correctly you need to match little dimples on the three pulleys with marks on the cover. You can do a cam to crank check with just the top cover off by hand turning the crank to when the timing mark on the damper/pulley lines up with the "0" on the lower cover, then check to see that the cam sprocket dimple lines up with the mark on the top cover. Then you can confirm the secondary shaft timing by doing a test of ignition timing with a timing light.
Also, most people seem to neglect to reset the timing belt tension 500 miles after a belt change.
Joh
If that happens it is certainly time for a new damper/pulley!
John
Three teeth off would make a very big difference! One tooth off will screw things up.
BTW, properly installed belts don't just slip on their own. If the belt jumped, something was done wrong.
John
I don't know this engine but I do know that most people DO NOT check the "timing belt tension" 500 miles after fitting - FFS ... that is what the "automatic timing belt tensioner" shown in the picture is for !
Nick
"Jamie" skrev i en meddelelse news: snipped-for-privacy@j55g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
picture itis hard to see if the engine is in OT position - if it is the camshaft position might be critical due to engine damages - pistons hitting the valves.
After belt installation it is very important to loosen/fasten belt tensioner after 500 km's drive to avoid belt vibration and sliding problems.
Best regards Per
Thanks all. I'm going to have the timing checked by someone more familiar with Volvo's than I. I had the crankshaft machined, the bearings replaced, all the seals changed, the timing belt, tensioner replaced, fuel injector seals replaced and a new engine wiring harness installed recently. All done by a friend of a neighbor who's a great mechanic - just never worked on a Volvo.
So, I am trying to work any bugs or glitches out. I post more when I get the timing checked correctly.
Jamie
Have them double check the wiring and vacuum hose connections...
Will do. I found a hole about the size of a pencil eraser on the bottom of the intake hose between the AMM and throttle body. I patched that, but not sure how much of an effect that hole would have. The engine still didn't seem to do better after that.
I'm going to give Southwest Auto in Dallas a shot, they are supposed to be Volvo experts - I just hope the labor rates are fair.
I don't know how much it usually costs to check/adjust timing belts if needed.
I stopped by the local mechanic and just by listening and pumping the accelerator he thinks the timing is retarded. I am scheduled to go in next week and have the gears checked for alignment and if needed the belt repositioned with the gears.
Price: $130 (3 hours labor).
I still want to put a timing light on the car to see.
Thats a very reasonable labor rate. It's US dollars in the US?
Yes, $130 USD. I still want to put a timing light to confirm. thanks.
The price would be almost 3X that here in No. California!
Wow - that is high.
I am in a very small town in NE Texas and the labor rates are reasonable - for most things. The downside is that I was driving 80 miles to Dallas to get parts when I couldn't get them online in time.
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