E-Codes are now onboard

Looking good Jamie. I've been rollin' e-codes on both my cars for a couple of years now and would never go back to that crummy "dot" lighting.

Those are nice rides! What wheels are on the 744 and what size tires? I am also about to redo suspension. Do you have stock springs and what shocks/struts?

Thanks!

Wow, that's a fantastic looking 242!

The wheels are Borbet Type E 16", tires are 205/55R16 Yokohama AVS ES100 from TireRack.com, $1108, mounted, balanced and delivered. Except for the ipd sway bars, the suspension is stock. This is my daily driver/freeway/road trip car and I don't really want to compromise the ride. The 242t on the other hand ;-) .....

Thanks James!

Jamie,

In reviewing your photos it is obvious that you spent some time restoring a

Anyway, you did a great job of restoring an old car.

P.S. I note that in one photo, the e-code indicator lights were clear/orange while in another they were all clear. Where did you buy the e-code lighting?

TEF, Thanks for the compliments. It has been a lot of work that has seemed to snowball at times. Hopefully I'll have the engine back in it soon.

The lights are from FCP Groton and are the DJ Auto lights, made in Taiwan. The clear turn signals before were only the running lights. My

The relay kit is for two reasons. The first is that it is accepted (at least in the US) that the OEM wiring does not provide sufficient power for the headlights to shine at their designed capacity. The wiring is too thin and too long, some power is lost and the lights are dimmer than they should be. I am told that just by installing heavier wires, closer to the lights from the source (battery or alternator), the lights will shine much better. The relays and fuses are for safety and function.

The second reason is by upgrading the wiring, I can switch from say a

If I were to keep the standard wattage bulbs, no additional wiring would be required - they are just plug-and-play. My wiring was so bad, that I felt I would be wasting money to have paid hundreds of dollars on new lights that weren't performing to specs.

Hope this helps some.

Best of luck!

Jamie,

Thanks for the info. On my e-code indicator lights, the top is a clear with running light and the bottom is orange with a turn indicator. Yours from FCP are clear on top and bottom. Therefore, do you use an orange-tinted bulb for the turn indicator? If you don't mind, what did FCP charge for the indicator lights and the headlight units. Mine purchased in Europe in 1987 from a Volvo dealer were quite expensive. I think I paid $400 for the entire assembly and that was many years ago, but on the plus side, I am still driving the car and they have lasted. However, I have replaced the glass headlight covers once or twice due to stone damage.

By the way, if one uses the higher wattage H4 lights, is there a chance that one will melt the plastic headlight housings? While the lenses are glass (at least mine are) wouldn't the housing be at risk from the added heat?

Thanks for your response and explanation.

My new e-code turning lights are also amber and clear. My lights prior to e-codes were all clear with an amber bulb:

Dan Stern's wiring kit: $45 (wires not included) Bulbs were I think $18 each (2 total)

I looked and looked for authentic lamps in Europe (Germany, Norway, Sweden), they were about $150 more for the set and about $80-100 to ship.

I am not sure about melting the housing. I told Dan Stern what I had as far as lights and these bulbs are his choice. Should be fine (fingers crossed).

Jamie,

Thanks for the detailed response concerning the lighting from FCP. It's good to know that they sell e-code lighting for the 7 series Volvos and not just the 240's. I'll now know where to go in the event of replacements.