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18 years ago
E-Codes are now onboard
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18 years ago
Looking good Jamie. I've been rollin' e-codes on both my cars for a couple of years now and would never go back to that crummy "dot" lighting.
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18 years ago
Those are nice rides! What wheels are on the 744 and what size tires? I am also about to redo suspension. Do you have stock springs and what shocks/struts?
Thanks!
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18 years ago
Wow, that's a fantastic looking 242!
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18 years ago
The wheels are Borbet Type E 16", tires are 205/55R16 Yokohama AVS ES100 from TireRack.com, $1108, mounted, balanced and delivered. Except for the ipd sway bars, the suspension is stock. This is my daily driver/freeway/road trip car and I don't really want to compromise the ride. The 242t on the other hand ;-) .....
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18 years ago
Thanks James!
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18 years ago
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18 years ago
TEF, Thanks for the compliments. It has been a lot of work that has seemed to snowball at times. Hopefully I'll have the engine back in it soon.
The lights are from FCP Groton and are the DJ Auto lights, made in Taiwan. The clear turn signals before were only the running lights. My
1987 had the turning signal below and the running lights on each corner. The new lights have both turning and running lights in the corners.The relay kit is for two reasons. The first is that it is accepted (at least in the US) that the OEM wiring does not provide sufficient power for the headlights to shine at their designed capacity. The wiring is too thin and too long, some power is lost and the lights are dimmer than they should be. I am told that just by installing heavier wires, closer to the lights from the source (battery or alternator), the lights will shine much better. The relays and fuses are for safety and function.
The second reason is by upgrading the wiring, I can switch from say a
65/50W bulb to 100/90W (I forget exactly what bulbs Dan is sending me, but they are much higher wattage). If the headlights are aimed properly, the increased wattage won't be blinding to other drivers. It seems to me that Dan is providing me with the best and most practical lighting possible to increase safety.If I were to keep the standard wattage bulbs, no additional wiring would be required - they are just plug-and-play. My wiring was so bad, that I felt I would be wasting money to have paid hundreds of dollars on new lights that weren't performing to specs.
Hope this helps some.
Best of luck!
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18 years ago
Jamie,
Thanks for the info. On my e-code indicator lights, the top is a clear with running light and the bottom is orange with a turn indicator. Yours from FCP are clear on top and bottom. Therefore, do you use an orange-tinted bulb for the turn indicator? If you don't mind, what did FCP charge for the indicator lights and the headlight units. Mine purchased in Europe in 1987 from a Volvo dealer were quite expensive. I think I paid $400 for the entire assembly and that was many years ago, but on the plus side, I am still driving the car and they have lasted. However, I have replaced the glass headlight covers once or twice due to stone damage.
By the way, if one uses the higher wattage H4 lights, is there a chance that one will melt the plastic headlight housings? While the lenses are glass (at least mine are) wouldn't the housing be at risk from the added heat?
Thanks for your response and explanation.
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18 years ago
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18 years ago
I am not sure about melting the housing. I told Dan Stern what I had as far as lights and these bulbs are his choice. Should be fine (fingers crossed).
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18 years ago
Jamie,
Thanks for the detailed response concerning the lighting from FCP. It's good to know that they sell e-code lighting for the 7 series Volvos and not just the 240's. I'll now know where to go in the event of replacements.