Replace head gasket on 93 940 Turbo

What does it take? Pull the engine? or Loosen exhaust pipe and take off exhaust manifold Intake manifold etc, timing belt, water pump etc Remove head?

TIA

Reply to
me
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Reply to
G Klein

One tip - leave the injectors, hoses and wires attached to the intake manifold. Remove the manifold from the head but leave it more or less in its place under the hood. Saves lots of time on reassembly.

Reply to
Mike F

it is a good 8 - 10 hour job...if...you know what you are doing...make sure you check and prepare the head surface itself before replacing... this is a good time to port and polish the head for better performance as well....i had mine done @ my shop as i didn't have the tools, time, patients, and overall know how to do this job properly...it is not a small, easy job...from what info i have gathered...

Reply to
~^ beancounter ~^

You mean the port and polish job requires tools, time know how etc to do? not the rest of the head gasket job.

Thanks

~^ beancounter ~^ wrote:

Reply to
no

Well they both require some tools and knowledge, but it's easier to screw up the port/polish job.

Reply to
James Sweet

The most specialized tool you'll need on the newer red blocks is a torque wrench.

If you need to (or would like to) have a book to guide you through it, grab the Bentley manual for the 240s.

Otherwise, I think it's fairly straight forward (hey I stress{ed} out more over dealing with the #@$ charging system and wrestling the alternator in place than with the head gasket)... and most of the information is available online (bb 700/900 FAQ, various bb posts, alt.autos.volvo archives, etc).

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

Reply to
Alex Zepeda

a few hours?....do you mean 2-3 hrs?......or more like 5-10 hrs..? i would drop off the head at a head shop for port and polish and most important check for no warping...it is a drag if you go through the whole process and find out the head is warped.. imho.......

Reply to
~^ beancounter ~^

Well if you've done it before you could do a head gasket change in 4-6 hours however it's best to allow a weekend so you can get any tools you can't find or don't own, and deal with any other issues that come up.

Reply to
James Sweet

yea...i think the "volvo book rate" is around 11-13 hours...so, i fig cut that in 1/2 for a person that is very quick w/a "fast shop set-up".. all the right tools & parts "at hand"....from what i have learned...this is one job you don't want to rush through ... as there are many other things to check "along the way".... me thinks.......

Reply to
~^ beancounter ~^

I think five or six hours is pretty reasonable, if you take a few shortcuts (esp. when wrangling the exhaust on a turbo). Thirteen hours is pretty generous IMO (especially for a dealer).

The big time killer for me was that I had to pick up the head from the machine shop a few days later.. and then I found out they were cash only.. so add a few days on to that.. but the actual removal and installation of the head was quite simple. Much easier on an LH-Jet car with a much smaller mess of vacuum lines and fuel injection crap.

It also helps to have some sort of power tool to clean off the block surface (doing it by hand really sucks.. ask me how I know :-D).

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

Reply to
Alex Zepeda

yep....i now remember my mechanic explaining this took a fair amount of time...to do right...scraping the surface and doing very careful inspection before new gasket and head went back on...all the steps he stated were critical for a "one time job"...otherwise...you are "back into the top end" in a few thousand miles......for small stuff...coolant leaks, compression issues...etc...with my limited knoweldge and shop set up...i was glad i had it done and did not try to do it myself...although i am a fiar shadetree mechanic...it would not have been a few hours for me...i would guess 10-20 with all the help i would have needed to finish....i changed out the heads on my

1983 3/4 checy p/u...that was fun...took maybe 10-15 hours total time (not counting running around buying parts)....

Reply to
~^ beancounter ~^

What sort of power tool? I did it by hand, I couldn't think of anything that would be quicker and not risk damage to the block surface.

Reply to
James Sweet

me>>> make sure you let us know what you decide to do...and how much time it takes...good luck...i am interested to see how much effort it takes...

Reply to
~^ beancounter ~^

And remember to retighten the headbolts after 1,000 miles. Tighten by 90 degrees in one movement.

Cheers, Peter.

: > TIA

Reply to
Peter Milnes

My 91 turbo had a head transplant. I used new had bolts which are torque-to-yield bolts. Installed year ago according to:

http://216.160.8.21/FAQ/700-900/HeadgasketRepair/HeadgasketRepair.htm

Never re tightened them. I hit 17 lb boost all the time. So far so good.

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs

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Ontario

Reply to
Boris Mohar

Wow. Isn't that substantially higher boost than normal? It's been a while since I've had a car with a B230FT, but I thought they ran at 11 - 12 lb boost.

Beverly

Reply to
Bev A. Kupf

The car has been diddled with. There is some info on my sorry excuse for a web page. Engine is holding up fine. Tranny not so good.

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs

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Ontario

Reply to
Boris Mohar

nice...the 17psi is a pretty impressive target...the motor really put out at that level...i am trying to cruise with 10...and hit 15 for a few seconds at wide open throttle...i am still playing around with waste gate / dawes valve / and an upgraded chip that should arrive this week...note:..after hittin some nice boost numbers last may...i was out WOT with my 93'940t in wy back highways...hittin' about

130mph...when...poof...white smoke (and lots of it)...anyway motor got very hot (not hot enough to melt the plastic..which happins sometimes...from what i have heard)..and i warped my head...had my shop do the fix...we ported and polished the rebuild unit...runs good now...but...i am supersied the warning lights do not advise the driver when the coolant level is dropping...the only water temp guage tells the driver the temp of the actual water...in the engine jacket or block...i have seen or had the coolant water compleately drain out...and the water temp sensor was exposed to the air (cause no water was surrounding it) ... the water temp guage returned to normal...WTF? no water in the motor...motor is "cooking"...and the water temp is reading normal...bad design...anyway...i discovered a mod that 940 owners can do...that will warn you when the coolant bottle or resvoir is empty (1st good warning that things are goin wrong)...here is the url>>

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it is a long one...i had to shorten it...anyway...be careful w/the coolant..."things are not always as they seem" in my 940t !!

Reply to
~^ beancounter ~^

More like 7.5 psi, but 17 makes them a LOT more fun to drive :)

Reply to
James Sweet

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