S60-T Accelerated on its own!

Jurgen:

Had a very difficult week at work. Think I was out of line with some of my comments. I was looking for input and you gave me a little more than I bargained for with your political views. Made me angry and I didn't handle it well when I responded. For this, I apologize.

Sean

This is related and also unrelated but I was hoping to get advice anyway.

Last Sunday night, in the last 15 minutes of a 5-hour drive, my 760 suddenly accellerated to full throttle and would not come down. Standing on the brake just barely slowed the car down and I managed to pull it over to the shoulder across three busy lanes of highway traffic before pulling out the key and coasting to a stop. Disengaging the cruise did nothing and shifting to neutral just freed the engine to redline.

Terrifying experience. Made much more so by my cargo: wife and two sleeping neices.

I popped the hood and had a look at the throttle control system and found that the rod connecting the throttle assembly to the throttle body had stuck in the open position. I gave it a tug and it popped back to its normal position and I proceeded to soak it with WD-40 to ensure it didn't stick again. Even fully freed it seems the throttle moves through one range of motion and then, with extra effort, an additional short distance.

Now I know that WD-40 is not a lubricant so, although it was a solution at that moment, I know I need to lubricate it with something more likely to last.

My question is WHAT SHOULD I USE?

On Fri, 04 Feb 2005 05:36:21 GMT, the illustrious "Sean Reilly" favored us with the following prose:

If you go to

WD-40 serves 5 basic functions:

CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape, stickers, and excess bonding material.

DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.

PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.

LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold firmly to all moving parts.

PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.

Notice, one is lubricate.

WD-40 also makes 3-IN-ONE oil and they would recommend using that.

There was an article about the history of WD40 in a local publication a couple of weeks ago. Apparently it is the product of space research (another one) - Nasa needed something to displace water condensing on the outside of its rockets. After 40 attempts, its inventor came up with an effective water displacement formula - hence its name.

The WD40 company claim several thousand 'official' uses for the product, which includes such things as cleaning CDs (I don't think I'll be trying that) and removing crayon marks from walls.

It will certainly lubricate things, but so will water. It was not designed as a lubricant, and seems to dry fairly quickly. Grease or oil would be a better option.

It's possible that your throttle body needs a good clean out inside to stop the throttle valve jambing. It's also possible that your cable(s) are frayed and/or need adjusting. Replacing a cable is often more effective than lubricating it, and if it is frayed internally it must certainly be replaced.

Is the 'additional short distance' the kick-down position that causes an auto gearbox to change down a gear? If so, this is perfectly normal.

Stewart,

I believe the 'additional short distance' is precisely that: the kick-down position. The sticking point seemed to be right at the transition. I suspected the variation in resistance was normal but I can't very well test that when I'm standing in front of the car tinkering under the hood. As for WD-40 I agree with you and have experience from my bicycling days that, while the product will clean your chain very effectively, not following up with some tenacious oil will result in a rusty chain in just a few days.

My primary concern was that I get some lubricant that won't be affected by the temperatures associated with the close proximity to the engine. If 3-in-1 will do then that's what I'll use.

thanks! blurp

On Fri, 04 Feb 2005 23:21:21 +0000, the illustrious Stewart Hargrave favored us with the following prose: