SRS light comes on - wipers and horn won't work

And you didn't listen to that guy because..?

Methinks he was on to something.

Just looking for alternate (read: simpler and cheaper) theories. In particular, ones that don't involve me dismantling my dash. Its always worth a try, right?

Agreed, this can turn into a serious issue. I'd second suspecting the ignition switch.

I'm guessing here but I *think* we're talking a disgusting amount ($~150) for the part and maybe an equal amount for a non-dealer mechanic to do the work.

Do you have an independent mechanic who does Volvos? These ain't just any mechanics.

Might want to let us know where you are and someone else here may know a knowledgible mechanic to use.

How about a junkyard part? Cheap, I don't think it's very hard to replace. As I recall, the key lock portion is separate from the switch portion.

Sorry for posting the news article. Human error.

Sounds like the consensus is that its the ignition switch. Guess that's my next project.

I'm in Austin, and there are three good shops here that I'd trust with my Volvo. However, I'm still going to try and replace it myself. Found a used ignition switch for about $45. I think I'm most freaked by installing the switch, which involves drilling out two bolts or cutting straight slots into the bolts for removal. Would this be necessary if I simply replace the switch? According to my '82-'88 manual, the two bolts hold both the switch as well as the key lock portion, so I'm guessing I have to remove both.

Almost forgot to ask - is there a any sort of test or diagnostic I can run to see if the ignition switch is bad?

If you have a Haynes or other good manual and it says this is what's necessary, I'd buy it as fact. I seem to recall this being the case. If you slot-cut them, you can reuse them. If you drill them out (which I would be disinclined to do), you would need to buy two new ones.

As for your second note, I don't know of any diagnostic test that will isolate this matter. I am inclined to think this is the most likely culprit and, if you can fix it for $45 and a little labor, it's certainly not wasted.

You might check with Beasley Motors there in Austin to get a wrapped price for the whole job. I have had very good luck with them. Of course, they don't set parts prices but it's worth knowing what your sweat is worth.

Never taken it to Beasley, but I've heard they are good sorts. Phoenix and Vol-Tech have done work for me, both with good results.

Haynes does not mention having to cut slots in the bolts but Chilton does. Time to find a friend with a dremel tool. Thanks for your advice, it helped a great deal.

Not living in Austin (I'm in Dallas), I'm not familiar with Phoenix nor Vol-tech. Have ordered parts from Beasley since they were some other name I can't recall. They give a VCOA discount and were much cheaper, even with freight, than the Dallas folk. I see from the latest issue of Rolling that Vol-tech also gives a VCOA discount.

Good luck and enjoy standing on your head. Oh yeah, wear goggles when you do this. Metal shavings in the eye are kinda painful (don't ask how I know).

Chuck Fiedler Nothing but Volvo since 1974