starter problem getting real expensive

Are you buying new starters or rebuilds? I've had a dead rebuild before, but then I've had one last years too. It's pretty easy to diagnose and any auto parts store will test a starter for you. The little wire supplies voltage when you turn the key, it's what triggers the solenoid to turn the starter on.

James, they were both rebuilts not new. I am getting a click from the solenoid on both of them.

Monitor the voltage at the big terminal when someone turns the key. If it stays at roughly 12V when the solenoid clicks then the starter is bad. If it drops way low then you have a bad connection in the heavy red wire.

Ok Thanks, I will try that. Other thing I just thought of i wonder if it is a bad battery to engine ground wire I will check that also. My bet it that its just two bad rebuilds in a row. but I will give it a go tommorrow with my voltmeter.

I think it's the battery ground connection.

"mjc13 @verizon.net>"

It was the heavy red wire. My mechanic said there was a huge voltage drop. It was corroded at the battery connector so he cut the cable and soldered on a new connector. Good call James. I just wish he had checked that earlier. Now I have two rebuild, perfectly fine starters, the original starter was probably just fine, a $300 bill plus $200 for car rental. Oh well at least its running again.

That stinks. The cable should have been the first thing the mechanic checked before condemning the original starter.

wait a minute, you said it won't start in park or neutral. There is a neutral safety switch the will only allow it to start in park and neutral, and there is an over ride I believe that is a push button to the right of the floor shift that can stick and has to be sprayed with soething like wd40 and picked at to make it pop up.If this has been pushed down though the key will not be able to come out of the key switch