Well, the old gal finally let me down...

Why drop the tank?

Here's what I would due to rule out ignition: hook up a timing light and have someone crank it; if the light flashes rhythmically, you've got spark, so that means it's a fuel problem.

Replace the filter, like you said you'd do: it's time.

If the car still won't start, I would suspect that the fuel pump relay is bad, or that the main pump is shot.

Get another relay (good to keep around, just in case), swap it out and see if the problem goes away.

If it persists, suspect the pump: you can order a new one from FCP Groton, online, or IPD.

For more detailed DIY info, do a search on turbobricks.com.

...anticipating a bad in tank pump.

That works. I'll probably have a look at the plugs anyway...

This is the tip I was looking for! (told you I don't take good notes)

as in main pump or in-tank pump?

A little known tip for searching forums like forums.turbobricks.com The website's search engine isn't all that special. Doesn't accept boolean searches, etc. Use Google. In the Google search window, type: site:forums.turbobricks.com Then you can use modifiers to refine your search and weed out some of the hits that don't apply. For instance, I used: site:forums.turbobricks.com +"fuel pump" +replacement +240 -740 So I only get articles with fuel pump and not just fuel or pump.

-740 removes articles that refer to the 740.

There is no need to "drop" the fuel tank on your Volvo.

The main fuel pump is not in the tank (the in-tank prepump is).

And the prepump is accessible from the topside...

I'd check the relay first, it's easy enough. I had a difficult to diagnose fuel pump failure in my 240 a few years ago. I could hear the pump running but I eventually discovered it wasn't pumping. An autopsy after the fact found that the drive nubs on the motor had sheared off so the impeller wasn't turning.

Glad to hear about the prepump. Hate to have to deal with a full tank of gas to get to it.

Timing light says it has fire.

Having a heck of a time locating the relay. Googling finds it's a green relay, white relay, black relay. Passenger side, driver side, (it's a '83 245 LHD car) There's not much under there anyway. Don't see anything that could be confused for a relay on the driver side. Haven't pulled the center console apart yet. Passenger side has a metal cased relay mounted to the firewall and a black plastic cased one flopping around. Here's the black one:

I read lots on jumpering this and that to bypass fuses and stuff to try to make the pumps work. Most of it too conflicting (in my mind) for me to start poking around and maybe fry something...

I want my Volvo back..! Damn rental car is costing more than the annual maintenance on her.

Depends on the fuel system. The mechanical (k-jetronic) has a 6 pin relay mounted near the hood release pull. The latest ones are all green, but I've seen these orange, gray, black and aluminum. Electronic injection has a pair of 5 pin relays on the firewall, inside the car directly above the passenger's feet, one for fuel pump, the other the main fuel injection relay. Note this dual relay setup was replaced with a single white 6 pin relay for the '85 model year. This is why there's so much confusion.

Apparently I have the 2 relays on the passenger side then. They both click when I turn on the ignition. I hear one of them click again, ~ 1 second after I turn on the ignition, like it's opening again or something. With all the covers off, there sure is a lot of clicking going on under the dash when I turn the key.

I don't remember ever hearing the fuel pumps running when I turn on the ignition. Girlfriendzilla's Jeep makes an awful buzz when you turn the key. At least you know it's working...*g* Do the Volvo pumps not run until the starter is engaged?

Next step I think, is putting power directly to the pumps to see if they run.

Your car is a 1983 245? If yes, please confirm what fuel injection system the car has (K-jet mechanical Bosch CIS system, or LH-jet electronic injection).

Do the following: 1) Pull the cover in the cargo area over the top of the fuel tank. You will see three conductors going to the in-tank pump and a connector. Pull the connector apart and check the brown ground wire with an Ohm meter. The gray wire goes from the fuel level sensor to the dashboard. The other wire is probably red and comes from fuse #5 via the fuel relay (typically a tachimetric relay which means that it remains activated when it detects ignition pulses, but opens when the engine stalls). 2) Check and clean fuse #5. When engine is cranked, the red wire should get 12V power. If no, then the relay is bad. If yes, then check the resistance of the in-tank pump at the connector. You can supply 12V to the in-tank pump at the connector to see if it works. 3) Check for the presence of 12V at the main fuel pump (under the car left side below passenger's feet) when engine is cranked. This will require partial removal of a rubber boot over the pump connector. If no, then the relay is bad. If yes, then check the resistance of the main pump at the connector. You can supply 12V to the main pump at the connector to see if it works

It is pretty obvious if the in-tank pump does not run. You should be able to hear it. Same goes for the main pump. If the in-tank pump has failed, then the main pump usually does _not_ get enough fuel to produce the 70 to 80 psig needed by the injection system, and the car won't start. Replacing the in-tank pump is a bit involved, but do-able. See my web page at http://24.108.159.23/245dl_1981_restoration.html, 3.1 Fuel injection system. / jch

Thanks for this! We'll be checking these things tonight.

It was the relay. Popped in a new one and it fired right up. (now to order a spare to keep in the box...)

Many times it is bad solder joints in the relay. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can salvage the old one and save a few bucks.

Howard

I looked at the old one. The joints (and there are only 2...to the windings that operate the coil) were ok. The relay closed, it just wouldn't hold.

It was the main pump. I put an aftermarket one on it until I can order a Bosch unit.