wiper linkeage cable

Is there a technique of getting the wire within the linkeage arm easily around the cog? I've just spent two hours trying to do it and I'm SURE there is probably a simple way of doing it but the logic of it escapes me! Thanks JD

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jd
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you didn't mention the car model or year, but if you are talking about the thin stainless steel wire that wraps around the cam, I found it a lot easer to work on the 960's mechanism after removing it from the car. Depending on the car that may or may not be a viable option.:

BEFORE PROCEEDING, DISCONNECT BATTERY OR DISCONNECT WIPER MOTOR PLUG. If the motor starts while you are working on it, the machanish has enough force to remove fingers!!! I can still count to 21 without external assistance and intend on keping it that way.

1) Use a small screwdriver in the slot of the threaded end of the cable to hold the cable and remove the nut at the end of the cable (6mm wrench I think as I remember). Do not allow the cable to roatate more than about 1/4 to 1/2 turn or it can be damaged or weakened. 2) examine the cam to be sure it is sound. Use plastic epoxy to repair or strengthen if necessary (if it is plastic). 3) examine the end of the actuating arm (where the end of the cable goes through). These can collapse and/or become deformed. The end must be square and the sides and bottom of the arm parallel or perpendicular. If malformed, reform with needle nose pliers or other suitable tool. I used a little JB weld as an external fillet to hold it in shape to prevent further deformation. The cable puts a lot of stress on that part, and if the end deforms it allows the cable to loosen and it can come off! but you already know that... 4) The cable goes around the cam, and when tightened it not only causes the cam to rotate, but also holds the cam TIGHT inside the channel. 5) Use a little non-permanent thread locker on the nut, and while holding the cvable as in step 1, tighten the nut. The cable must be tight.

I have had to do two repairs to the 960's mechanism- the driver's side actuating arm broke in half(!) and I was able to solder that back together with a reinforcing piece of metal, and the passenger's side actuating arm had the end deform as described above.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Reply to
Randy G.

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