Can somebody tell me how to change a battery on a 1996 jetta?
- Specifically, when the alarm goes on when I put the new battery in,
all I have to do is turn the key on the driver side door right?
- Do I put radio code after new battery is changed or do I type the
code before I remove the dead battery
- do I remove postive or negative terminal first? Which do I put back
on first, the + or -.
- Is there anything else I need to disconnect before removing battery?
thanks in advance for any help...
Yes. Put the key in the lock so that it's ready to turn.
After. However, I have NEVER had to enter the code in my 1995 Golf
premium radio after disconnecting the battery. Once, I even had it out
of the car and took it all apart to fix the tape player and I still
didn't have to enter the code. Perhaps you will also be lucky.
Remove the negative first and connect it last. Make sure it is secured
so that it won't flip around and inadvertantly connect (Murphy's Law).
No, but make sure the ignition is in the ON position when you reconnect
the battery. This is recommended to minimize the possibility of burning
out the airbag module due to heavy current inrush. If the ignition is
on the load gets spread around better.
78 Rabbit...10/77 - 4/02 82 Convertibles(s)...since 93
95 Golf GL...since 11/99 02 Passat 1.8T Tip GLS...since 4/02
(Remove the CAT to email me)
Thanks for the tips.. One quick question. The battery I saw made by
Exide has two vent ports on either side and one of them has to be
vented. (Same think on Walmart's batteries) What does this mean? On
my current VW battery on the negative terminal I see a rubber tube
running from it? Is this the venting tube? Does this have to be
connected to the vent port on the battery? Thanks
You can get a device with a 9v battery that plugs into your lighter socket
that's supposed to maintain any codes. I've not used one. However when I
changed the battery in my 99.5 jetta tdi everything was remembered, nothing
to reenter or recode. The battery was out about a hour while I cleaned up
grounds under where the battery sits. Just don't touch both battery leads
together and keep the plus away from any/all grounds.
This is actually a great idea. Unless you have vag tools you may have
to take the car to dealer after the computer losts it settings.
Some info from http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/oct2003/techtips.cfm
Starting in 1996 on OBD-II vehicles, Volkswagen began using an
electric throttle control module to control the throttle plate. This
throttle control module contains an electric motor that actually moves
the throttle plate and two potentiometers that monitor throttle plate
position and requested throttle position.
The throttle controller is synchronized to the powertrain control
module (PCM) electronically. This matching process allows the PCM to
memorize the closed throttle, wide-open throttle and pre-start
If power is lost to the PCM or throttle controller for any reason
(disconnecting the battery is the most common reason), the
synchronization between the PCM and throttle controller is erased!
This synchronization is known as the "Basic Setting." As hard as it
may be to believe, basic settings are stored in volatile memory and
are erased whenever power is lost from the PCM or throttle controller.
In addition to the basic settings for throttle control, Volkswagens
with automatic transmissions will have the transmission basic settings
erased as well. So you see, a simple battery replacement is not so
simple and definitely not something a do-it-yourselfer would want to
firstname.lastname@example.org (Patrick) wrote in message
Thanks Patrick, I did change the battery - I have 3 things that I need
to do now, but you may have given me a clue to the most disturbing -
1) my radio went to safe mode (don't have code, but will get from
dealer, no problem on this)
2) Air bag light came on and stayed on (have heard of this and will
have to get reset - I guess it sensed the drop in voltage)
3) I got a check engine light and I found a slight hesitation when I
accelerate and a loss of power. Maybe this is due to the throttle
controller memory loss. I was concerned about this, as I didn't know
what had gone wrong now, so I guess it could be what you are saying.
And I thought changing a battery on a car is simple ....
I thought it was, too, because I didn't have any
trouble when I put a new battery in my 1996 Jetta last
January. The car had been sitting dead for a long
time, I dropped a battery in, and off it went.
However, I did take the car to a good garage for some
overdue service, and it's possible the mechanic did all
the steps specified in the web page Patrick linked.
Now, the cautionary tale. After responding to your
initial message, I contacted my younger brother, who
worked as a mechanic many years ago. He told me that
you should hook up the positive cable first, then the
negative, because you're more likely to get a large
spark from hooking up the positive if the negative is
already connected than the other way around. The
reason you want to avoid sparks is because batteries
can emit explosive gasses, as the labels on them warn,
and as I learned first hand this afternoon.
My neighbors were trying to jump-start one of their
cars from the other, and the old guy already had the
jumper cables hooked up, battery to battery. The dead
car still wouldn't start, so, because I can screw in a
lightbulb and they can't, they came and asked me for
help. I had the woman turn the key in the dead car,
and as she did, I fiddled with the cable on the
negative battery post, as I wasn't sure there was a
There was a deafening BANG, and when I looked down at
my clothing, there was battery acid all over my shirt
and pants. I looked at the battery, and it was cracked
open. Luckily - *more* than just "luckily", I'd have
to say - none of the juice got on my face or in my eyes.
That was about three hours ago, and I still have a
headache, and my right ear is still ringing.
Moral of the story: don't mess around with car
batteries. If you can't find a mechanic who's paid to
do this kind of thing to jump-start your car, be sure
you connect the negative cable on the dead car to the
car frame, as far away from the battery as possible,
and AFTER connecting the positive cable to the positive
Yes. Actually, either front door lock will operate the
security system, but the driver side door is closer to
the battery compartment.
I see some people have replied that they didn't have to
re-enter the code. I did have to do it. You do it
after, of course: it is the disconnection from the
battery that causes the code to be erased.
I don't recall. Your owner's manual should say. A
site pertaining to car batteries I found,
http://uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq8.htm , says:
8.1.12. After replacing and tightening the hold-down
bracket, remove any plastic caps or covers on the
terminals of the replacement battery, and reconnect
the cables in reverse order, that is, attach the
POSITIVE (+) cable first and the NEGATIVE (-) cable
I'm not sure it makes that much difference, but better
to go with a professional recommendation.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.