'87 Scirocco 16V Oil warnings

Have you checked the sender?

The oil weight would vary with the season.

Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA

Like Peter said...........use different weights for different temps.

You might want to check the oil pressure during different rpms of the warm engine. Do you have any head gasket problems or leakage?

Your engine IIRC has two oil pressure devices on it, one being a switch and the other being a combo pressure sending unit and switch. Been too long since I have worked on a Scirocco! lol Either or both devices could be faulty. The one I would check is probably on the oil filter housing or should be cheap to change. You could also have a faulty low oil pressure warning module around the speedo.

I insist on using good quality oil filters like MANN or MAHLE and good brands of oil. What are you using and did you just change it?

later, dave (One out of many daves)

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I plan to do that when it's not, like, nine degrees out but haven't yet.

I suppose it could. I've never done that on any car I've owned, but that doesn't mean I shouldn't. OK, so, what weight for this time of year in the north east of the United States? I'm running 20W50 in the other 16V year round, and it starts fine even at minus 5 degrees F.

- Bill

Not that I can see. I've never found any oil on the ground under it. The only oil I see on the engine is where I sometimes spill some filling it.

I'll have to dig out the Bently. It's in my office here somewhere.

Oil was just changed because the valve cover gasket failed around the #2 cylinder. Filled the spark plug well with oil. As far as I know, they used the same parts they've been using on the other 16V for years, but now that you bring it up, I'll check.

This warning thing has occasionlly occurred since I got the car (late last year) after a high speed (4000RPM+) extended (five or more miles) run. And it often happened when the oil was over a quart low. It's now happening more often, with no dramatic driving, and with the oil full. All it actually seems to take is for the engine to reach normal operating temperature.

- Bill

I had two experiences on an 8v some years ago that might be of relevance to you.

First, the wiring in the engine compartment generally was breaking down. The car was over 10 years old at the time, and the insulation on wires tended to be brittle. Moreover, with the combination of road crap and heat under the hood, wires were themselves somewhat corroded, which meant that their impedence could be higher than expected. Among other symptoms, I had a persistent but intermittent oil-pressure warning happen.

On top of all of this, it turned out that I had a failing seal on the oil cooler. I ended up writing off the car when the oil pressure warning came on, and I pulled over in my usual way to make sure it wasn't just some stupid electrical connection. It was not: there was oil _everywhere_ under the hood. It was dark night, it was winter, and a snow storm was coming up. I abandoned the car, and had it towed to the wrecker the next day, since I had nowhere to work on it anyway. Oddly, my father happened to be there when it came in (yes, I come from a line of car geeks), and had a look at it. He concluded it was leaking at the oil cooler. All he had to do was take the cooler off the engine body, replace the O-ring, and put it back on. He drove that car for several more years.

As I say, that was an 8v with the "doughnut" oil cooler between the oil filter flange and the engine proper. But it might be worth considering.

Good luck, A

Check both sensors, well they are actually switches. One switch is normally closed when there's no pressure and the other is normally open. Do you also hear the buzzer?

SFC

"William J. Leary Jr." schreef in bericht news:wfedne50RNAwhyDYnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...

Hmmm No leaks huh and the warning light comes on when low on oil but now even when it is full.

Well here are my experiences with my 16V 2.0l engine in my '91 Passat. My engine liked to be full of oil, or even overfull or while driving the annoying buzzer and light would activate. I thought it was a bad or broken oil pump since the oil level was in the crosshatch area. No damage to the oil pan and the dipstick guide was fine BTW.

Well my cyl. head gasket was slightly leaking externally (oil and coolant) and oil would even migrate into the cooling system. Well I got tired of it and popped the cylinder head off. I cleaned up all of the drain holes to make sure the oil returns easily to the pan. I had cleaned up the mating surfaces & checked for straightness. No machine work needed.

I have not had any other problems with the oil pressure warning system or oil in the cooling system since the head gasket and the rodding of the drain holes. It might have been the head gasket was blocking the return holes too.

The story is actually much longer than this, but I am trying to indicate that maybe the oil return holes might be a little clogged and the oil is staying in the upper part of the cylinder head.

later, dave (One out of many daves)

Yes, it buzzes too. Occasionally I seem to get a very short buzz without the LED coming on at all.

- Bill

Well, I suppose I could try an engine old flush to make sure. And now that you mention it, I'll check the coolant too to make sure it's not going that way.

- Bill

Well, this one's twenty. I did give the wiring the "once over" yesterday, but I'll go over it more closely as soon as it's warm enough and I'm home in daylight.

Yes, I've had that same failure. I think the 16V has the same oil cooler thing, but as I recall (and you mention) when that O ring went, I got a considerable mess under the car. I'm just not seeing any oil under the car at all. And even if that were the issue, it's full now and has been for a week and I'm still getting buzzes.

And for one other detail, it does only happen when the engine gets to normal temperature. It was very cold here this morning and on my drive to work the temperature never got UP to normal, and no buzzes or lights. On the trip home this evening, it was 20F warmer out and it DID get up to full temp and I DID get buzzes and warnings.

- Bill

messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.phlogiston.dyndns.org...

over" yesterday, but

same oil cooler

Mostly that it's awfully inconvenient right now to get my car to the shop and pick it up again. But yes, I agree. It's probably the best place to start. I was considering just putting in an oil pressure gauge. So, next question, what's normal pressure? I expect if I ever find the Bently manual in the mess that is my office, it'll tell me.

I have to take the cluster out anyway to fix the odometer, so I may as well check the regulator while I've got it out. Another reason to get around to doing it, I guess.

- Bill

This means that the oil pressure is below 1.8bar (25.2psi) when the engines runs above 2100 rpm. Could be a simple defective switch or in worse case bearing trouble. The pressure switches are located on the top of the filter housing.

SFC

"William J. Leary Jr." schreef in bericht news:sLqdnR3AEN0YGCPYnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...

This means that the oil pressure is below 1.8bar (25.2psi) when the engines runs above 2100 rpm. Could be a simple defective switch or in worse case bearing trouble. The pressure switches are located on the top of the filter housing.

SFC

"William J. Leary Jr." schreef in bericht news:kZ6dnabj1_2KGCPYnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...

Thanks. I went looking for them this afternoon, and examined the upper part of the filter mount based on someone elses suggetion. I found two very similar (covered with road grime, anyway) looking sensors there. I was a bit surprised they're that close together. Look fairly simple to replace, so I'll do that. I'm also going to have the shop run a pressure test on it.

- Bill

This is true for the 8v engine which has one switch on the side of the cyl. head and one on top of the filter housing.

SFC

"Jim Behning" schreef in bericht news:p2Svh.16478$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...

Thanks. I'm going to buy the replacement part first so I'll be sure what I'm looking at when I get it off the car.

Still haven't found the Bentley manual I've got around here somewhere. That would make this a bit easier.

- Bill