EGR VALVE!

Its about 2 inches MAX in diameter and 3 inches long aprox. The old one is about 4-4 1/2 inches in diameter and about 5-6 inches long. I was exagerating when I said 1/8th, it just looks TINY compared to the other one. Anyways as for that mixture screw could I just put some teflon tape and a flat style screw in there? Because at the moment there is nothing there. It looks like its been playe with so I'd need to buy a slightly bigger screw because the metal is slightly stripped.

Does your filter look like the one pictured here ?

one?

message

one?

located.http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l28/the_lower_class_brat/coscrew.jpg

When I undo the wires to the intank pump it has no effect on the problem (same problem happens) so could it be that? the wires don't exactly look right. Someone obviously hacked the wires back there, because there was electrical tape and poor wiring jobs done. Its wierd the pump connector has 4 wires but in the harness there is only 3. the wires on the pump connector are as follows 1 orange 1 orange with a blue stripe 1 purple with a black stripe and one red with a yellow stripe. The wires that were spliced and connected to those were as following, 1 purple with a black stripe, 1 brown, 1 green with a black stripe. The 2 oranges were connected to the brown, the purple was connected to the purple and the red was connected to a green with black stripe.

On 6 Apr 2007 10:41:17 -0700, "the_lower_class_brat"

wrote:>

The filter you have sounds like it should be ok. The hole in air flow metering casing is there to allow adjustment of the CO mixture and should have a plug in it . The adjustment should not be done without using a exhaust gas analyser. Let's hope who ever removed this plug DID NOT just start tweaking this adjustment. But you should plug this hole. Trying to put a screw in there is risky because of debris you may make getting the screw threads started.

Is your engine a 16 valve engine like this picture shows?

Yes , someone replaced the connector to the in tank pump / fuel gauge with one different from the orignal. The wires in the harness are

1. Brown : the ground for the pump
2. Green w/ black : this is the 12volt supply wire to the pump ( let me add here that somewhere in the harness this green w/black is spliced to the Green with balck stripe wire that powers the main pump too).
3. Violet w/black stripe : this goes to the fuel guage in the dash.

So if the fuel gauge works and the IN TANK runs and pumps fuel then the replaced connector is most likely wired properly.

How many female terminals are in the plug itself? ( are both orange wires going to the same terminal ?)

I was going to ask this too but then remembered all of the problems with the timing belt so I will still ASSuME that it is a 8 valve gas engine.

Ever since Mike Stafford got the ' safe code ' for his radio I just can't think because of the music playin'. Turn it down. j/k mike :-)

Its the 8 valve engine, its so wierd how to time those engines, took me forever to figure out. Anyways I installed the pump and all, but if I try to give it any gas after I rev it at start, forget it, its like a kill switch basically.

What happens if you start it and don't touch the gas?

Took apart the intank pump but theres no gas with the arrow out only in the line with the arrow in. The line out was dry dry dry. which doesnt make any sense to me. I drew a thing in paint describing how I have most of my pump set up. Some lines I dont understand.

understand.http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l28/the_lower_class_brat/pumpsetup.jpg If I dont touch the gas it will run for maybe max 30 seconds. and rough idle like crazy.

Guessing based on some google searches. In tank transfer pump should go to the big pump which goes to the accumulator, then to filter and then to front of the car. There should be a return line and probably an expansion tank.

I might guess that the hoses are not hooked up correctly. That green line should be going to the pump sitting outside the tank. I would guess the teal line should go to the accumulator and filer. Of course I would have purchased a Bently for the car by now. My dad had repair manuals for his cars when I was growing up. I have had repair manuals for my VWs.

Google search comments: One thing you could do (which i just did on my

More the point, the main fuel pump (next to the tank) has, I believe, a "fuel pump check valve" attached to it. If this is not working properly, you will have hot-starting problems (according to bentley). By the way, you really need to get the Bentley repair manual---nothing comes close.

if someone could scan their bently manual fuel supply set up and send it to the following email: the_lower_class snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com that would be highly appreciated, I retreived a haynes manual from my freind, but the sketches are pretty terrible.

On 7 Apr 2007 19:30:55 -0700, "the_lower_class_brat"

wrote:

Read this through twice so you get the concept as a whole then each part as you do it. On the intank pump ( lift pump ) on top of the fuel tank there are two male nipples which are the output of the pump and the return from the reservoir in the main pump. The output of the lift pump is the one on the right as you look into the holes of the nipples. ( where the wiring connector is to the intank lift pump )

To make sure this lift pump is working and so you can identify the output line of the LIFT PUMP , remove both hoses at the main pump that go to/from the lift pump. Disconnect the plug wires to the main pump . The main pump should not be run without the lift pump suppling fuel to it. ( running the main pump w/o the supply of fuel from lift pump CAN cause damage to the main pump ). Put both lines into a ( jug / can / container ) and turn the key to start position for three seconds. One of these two lines should pump fuel out into the container and that is output line of the lift pump. If you don't get fuel there is a problem with the lift pump or its wiring. STOP and tell us if it doesn't.

If you have fuel pumping into the container you KNOW that the pump working and have identified the output line of the LIFT pump at the main pump. Mark this output line of the lift pump with something like either a wire tie ( plastic zipstrip ) or a wire tie from a bread bag. That output line of the lift pump goes to the input of the main pump. From the picture you drew two circles on and posted here on 4/2/7 @ 12:13pm. Look how that line is drawn as going into the same side ( end ) of the main pump as the output of the main pump. That is where you connect output line of the lift pump ( labeled on that picture as ' from fuel lift pump ' ). If all has gone ok so far , you should be able to tell where the return line from the engine enters back into the main pumps reservoir from that same picture. ( labeled on that picture as ' return to fuel metering distributor ' ) {{ actually it should be labeled as ' return FROM fuel metering distributor ' }} From the same picture look and see how the ' return pipe to fuel tank ' is pictured at the top of the main pumps internal reservoir . That line returning fuel to the fuel tank is at the top to aid in removing any air that may have been in this system. See how it is drawn in the picture? Both pumps run all the time while the engine is running and a continuous flow of fuel at the proper pressure is then present at the fuel distributor to be used by the injectors. If the engine isn't running the pumps are shut off when the key is in the 'run / on ' position. This protects the main pump if there is no fuel. Happy Easter. ( dang it , we got 2 inches of snow over night )

any air that

Well everything is hooked up right, I completely unplugged the the pump had it out of the car and it had no effect, I believe this pump isnt an mk2 pump its got a wire harness for 4 wires and the pump looks a bit different, still says germany on it so it is for a vw Im guessing. Also I started running into VERY wierd problems, I would start the car and it would rev to 5 k and idle there.... :o I was thinking the ecu, since if I unplug just about every sensor it has absolutely no effect. The fuel pump is the real mystery, how it was running when it was completely removed from the car. And the car would just randomly rev to 5k soon as you start it, not even touching the throttle so technically not getting any air through the throttle valves. Or rather very little.

actually it

is pictured

any air that

Also there is three lines going and coming from the trunk, 2 from the intank pump and another skinny black one that seems to go to the gas tank

Hmmmm Progress huh? lol Got it to rev much higher now. Sounds like a large vacuum leak maybe through the idle stabilizer valve or another valve if so equipped or the throttle body plates are stuck open. Sometimes I find that the secondary TB plate can stick open and I need to free it up with good penetrating oil.

The little hose going to the fuel tank might be for the venting system?

Your Golf has a transfer pump in the fuel tank and a main fuel pump under the car in a box. That box will hold a bit of fuel before it runs out. But you know that already. ;-)