EGR VALVE!

The screw is shoved in the entrance that would normally go into where the dist cap is, but that part is missing.

this URL is for a picture of the vacuum advance unit attached to the distributor.

It's not in the air box exactly though, it's on the metal that on top of it, that the fuel dist plugs into. What color wire goes to the dist?I got 2 and if I change them it makes no difference

Also it starts and runs but you can't floor it or it chokes, cant rev past 5k. once you get to 5 k you can keep it there for about 5 seconds, and its slowly goes down no matter how much gas you give it. So this makes me to believe that this is the problem. Also I get some sort of ping clickety sound once and a while, sounds like an engine knock but I'm not sure.

other than the coil and four spark wires , you have a hall effect transducer in the base of the distributor , which in all my schematics have three wires. from a 86 golf schematic : all three are 18 gauge bk/w , br/bk , g ( the green wire does have a white stripe after the connector ( the wiring to the electronic ignition module )

Okay because now I have 2 wires at the coil a yellow and a green, and at the base of the dist I have 2 brownish wires one with what appears to be a red stripe going to the dist cap, but when I switch them up it has no effect what so ever. now when I try to start it I need to pump the gas pedal.

test

The picture i posted is very typical of all hall sensors. the plug with the terminals is what you should see/have at the base of your distribtor. Three wires going from that plug ( on the dist. ) to the electonic ignition module ( pins 3, 5 , 6 ). Out of pin 1 of the electronic ignition module a green/black wire goes to terminal

wheres the picture?

I hope you saw the picture by now , I never posted a picture to the news group before and it did not go as smoothly as I thought it would. Anyway the post by me at 10:28 AM with subject line : Re : EGR VALVE! hall.jpg

Well apparently my timing is off, the engine has a pully from a 2L and mine is the 1.8.

If the car still starts and runs for 10 seconds I really don't a pully has anything to to with your problem.

Well yes actually because the timing is completely off, you can't get the timing marks lined up with this pully.

And it never runs smooth smooth smooth, always very rough.

Actually No.

What does the rail fuel pressure do when your engines stops?

because - the in tank pump is NOT suppling fuel to the main fuel pump. So the main pumps gets slugs of air. I'm guessing the problem is just a poor "hot" wire connection at the connector on top of the fuel tank ( under the back seat, under the round access cover ) . >> Prolly will fix the fuel gauge too.

Timing of the crankshaft , cam , and intermediate shaft ( and thus the distributor ) is though the timing belt. The v-belt pulley may have the timing mark on it but really has nothing with the timing other than to give a place to check the timing. It doesn't matter to the engine timing what size the pulley is because " zero " on the crank will be "zero" on the pulley everytime around no matter what the size of the pulley.