Golf now runs- oil light flashing

This is a continuation from an earlier post. BIG thanks to those of you who posted help.

90 Golf 1.8 8v 144,000 miles.

OK, I got it started and it runs, but the oil light is flashing. I have recently replaced the switch (sensor) on the side of the motor. The oil level is fine, maybe a little low. It still flashes when I rev the car. The car sounds a bit loud and rickety, but that could be because it hasn't been run for a week.

I don't want to drive the car until I figure out what's causing that oil light to flash.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions, thoughts and ideas.

Reply to
Ears
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I don't recall if that oil pressure switch opens or closes when the pressure is sufficiently high, but try these things and see what happens to the flashing oil light: a) disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch b) connect the wire that goes to the oil switch to chassis ground

Do either of those tests affect the flashing of the oil light? Are you sure you have the correct new oil switch? Why did you replace it?

Also, what (if anything) did you do to get the car running?

90 Golf 1.8 8v 144,000 miles.

OK, I got it started and it runs, but the oil light is flashing. I have recently replaced the switch (sensor) on the side of the motor. The oil level is fine, maybe a little low. It still flashes when I rev the car. The car sounds a bit loud and rickety, but that could be because it hasn't been run for a week.

I don't want to drive the car until I figure out what's causing that oil light to flash.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions, thoughts and ideas.

Reply to
WT

Excellent advice! I did this. When I grounded the switch the light went off. I removed the sending unit and let the car idle to make sure I have pressure. I do! I replaced the switch with an older one and the light went off. Plus, the car seems to be running fine now.

I replaced the switch originally because it was leaking.

Good question. I did a series of things:

  1. I removed the distributor cap and turned the starter to get the rotor in a different position. I tried a few different times as the bell housing on the distributor was loose and I could not see any clear marks.
  2. I replaced the fuel pump fuse with the brake light fuse (both 20 amp). The fuse did not look blown but was old. Curiously, the brake lights did not work temporarily but are now working.
  3. I prayed.

Thanks again for the advice. This group is excellent!

Reply to
Ears

wrong switch. The switches should have the PSI spec on them. Take a look.

Excellent advice! I did this. When I grounded the switch the light went off. I removed the sending unit and let the car idle to make sure I have pressure. I do! I replaced the switch with an older one and the light went off. Plus, the car seems to be running fine now.

I replaced the switch originally because it was leaking.

Good question. I did a series of things:

  1. I removed the distributor cap and turned the starter to get the rotor in a different position. I tried a few different times as the bell housing on the distributor was loose and I could not see any clear marks.
  2. I replaced the fuel pump fuse with the brake light fuse (both 20 amp). The fuse did not look blown but was old. Curiously, the brake lights did not work temporarily but are now working.
  3. I prayed.

Thanks again for the advice. This group is excellent!

Reply to
Lost In Space/Woodchuck

Huh?

Reply to
Ears

Two oil switches on your car. One on the cylinder head has a normally closed circuit with the engine off, while the oil pressure switch on the oil filter housing has a normally open circuit with the engine off.

SOME oil pressure switches will have some numbers on them indicating at what pressure their circuits will open/close.

So you installed the filter housing switch onto the cylinder head. When it got pressure it closed the circuit and turned that oil light on.

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Did you replace the correct sensor? there are two, one on the filter and one on the head. If you replaced the wrong one (e.g. you bought the one that goes on the filter but you put it in the head) this could cause that problem.

"a bit loud and rickety" does worry me somewhat though. I would get a mechanical pressure gauge and make sure you're getting pressure to the head. If the car has been sitting for a while the lifters can bleed down and clatter but that should go away after a minute or so.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Thanks, for explaining it all. The switch in the head is usually about .5bar(7psi) and at the flange 1.8bar. An old trick was to install the diesel

1.4bar switch so the oil light wasn't so likely to come on around 2000rpm.
Reply to
Lost In Space/Woodchuck

Chilton said to let the car idle with the sensor removed to check for oil pressure. It said if there is no pressure, no oil will come out the hole. I was expecting a trickle. It was more like a gush.

Thanks again.

Reply to
Ears

Reply to
Jim Behning

That's funny, because I just got back from a 500 mile road trip and the car ran PERFECTLY. I've never seen a shadtree, but I've had shade from a tree!

Don't despair!

Reply to
Ears

Yes a shadtree mechanic is one who is a few thoughts behind a shade tree mechanic. I bet the dealers hear it often enough that the car was running perfectly except for that pesky oil light as they replace an engine.

Reply to
Jim Behning

Ahhh so that is why that electrical tape was used there! :-)

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

I bet the dealers hear it often enough that the car was

Hah hah, negative people are so funny! If you had read more closely, you would have seen that the oil light went OFF when I replaced the sending unit.

Reply to
Ears

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